I just signed up for this forum after lurking a while, and it has been extremely helpful. Over this last weekend, I wound up mechanicing more than riding, and thought I would share what I had found. I have two Huskys, a 2008 TE510 and a 2012 TXC 310. I am the second owner on both bikes. They have been flawless until this last week. First: TE510 My son (14) was riding my 510 to his grandparents on the irrigation canal to mow their lawn. I was putting a new exhaust on "his" 310 so he could ride in Forest Service areas legally. He was gone for way longer than I had anticipated (even accounting for a detour to our own personal track) so I went to look for him. I found him at a neighbors house, the bike "just died." Bike would turn over but not start. Occasionally it would sputter to life for a second and that was it. We finally killed the battery. Troubleshooting: 1. Checked spark, had good spark. But on a new plug anyway. Didn't fix but needed a new plug anyway. 2. Listened to the pump priming sound. It sounded weird, kind of "growly". Not the normal high pitch whine. 3. Could see fuel flowing in the tank. 4. Pulled tank and quick disconnect, but kept the pump power and fuel light leads plugged in. Turn the key on and the pump pumped fuel out of the hose (across the shop floor!). So at this point, my fuel pump is working and not a relay problem. 5. Reconnected tank fuel line. Removed injector (required one of those hand impact thingies). Held the injector in my hand and tried starting it. Only little drops pissed out of the injector, not the required mist. Now I am thinking clogged/bad injector, or fuel filter. 6. Reinstalled the injector, and hooked up a 1/4" fuel line to the brass injector inlet (where the quick disconnect hose goes). Filled hose with gas with a funnel. Made a mess. 7. Went to my air compressor and set the regulator to 45-50 psi. 8. Shoved the rubber tip of a blow off nozzle into the hose and fired up the bike. Fired right up, Revved perfectly all through the range of throttle. Injector is good. What Now.... Ok, so now I have focused on not getting enough pressure. Since the pump is pumping, there are two things it could be; bad pressure regulator or clogged filter. I focused on the regulator because unless a filter is totally clogged, it would still flow some fuel, but starve the injector at increasing throttle input. A dirty filter can still provide pressure to the injector at low flow rates, but not at high ones. A broken regulator will not allow any pressure to develop. Also, I noticed little bits of rubber debris sticking out of the holes of the regulator so I figured it was bad. 9. Removed the regulator, had to break those push on clips to get it off. 10. Shoved a piece of gasket material inside the regulator, put pierced a small hole in it to make sure I had some flow. 11. Took two small 4mm nuts, and roughed the threads with a rat tile file to make a sort of tap, and threaded the nuts on the little "pins" that hold on the regulator 12. Hooked everything back up. Bike started up and revved. Took off up the up the road and ran pretty well all things considered. I noticed some sputtering at WOT, and when chopping the throttle to IDLE from WOT it stalled a couple of times, probably flooded it. Luckily the fuel hose didn't blow off. Ordered a new regulator from CA-Cycleworks. I ordered the 3 bar and they called me yesterday and told me I needed the 3.5 bar and wanted to confirm with me. GREAT CUSTOMER SERVICE!! If I haven't put you to sleep yet, here is what happened to the 310: So after working on my 510, on labor day weekend, and spending most of labor day moving rocks, I figured I would take my 310 out to the Owyhees. My son rode it earlier in the day, and I had the night before testing out the exhaust and making some Rekluse adjustments. It ran like a champ. Then I get to my jumping off point (landfill at Johnstone rd for any Treasure valleyers), get 50 yards from the truck and the bike just starts running like crap. It will kind of idle, but at anything above 25%-ish throttle it sputters and cough and hesitates. It is 6PM and I am not taking a semi-running bike in the boonies where there is no cell service by myself. So I start over with this bike, thinking I should sell these stupid bikes and by a couple of Honda XR400s. I am thinking a clogged injector, so first thing I try is steps 6-8 above. Bike takes off and revs perfectly all through the throttle range, which it wouldn't do before. Not a clogged injector or bad ECU. So I drop the fuel pump and filter, and change the filter. As I am putting it all back together (is it me or do those hoses look like the straw of a souvenir cup?) I noticed that the fuel pump "holster" as two little holes at the base where the fuel flows in. One hole is totally plug with some kind of plastic sliver, like a PVC pipe shaving. Plucked it out with a needle and put it all together, bike took off and ran like it is supposed to. In my opinion, a bike of this configuration with the fuel pump holster, needs to have a fuel sock on the filler. This is the case in many Husky, Husaberg and KTM models. Lessons learned that I think can be useful for others: 1. When trouble shooting fuel injection problems, I think alternate fuel supply as I described above is a fast easy test. If the bike runs ok on this, it completely eliminates the fuel injector and the ECU as the culprit. The fuel injector and ECU doesn't "care" where the fuel comes from, as long as there is 40-45 psi of fuel at the injector when wide open. I am going to build a rig with a couple of pieces of pipe and a air compressor chuck, kind of like a test tank to do this easier. 2. A pressure gauge with a quick connect one end. Plug this into the fuel hose and start the priming system, if you don't have 40+ psi (not sure of the exact number) you have a bum regulator. If the pressure is good, and still running bad, it is probably a filter. To REALLY check the pressure while running, one would need to put a "TEE" in between the tank and the injector inlet. A clog would present itself in pressure at greater throttle inputs. I think I read all the way through page 17 of EFI/Carb posts, and it seems that when the electrical issues are eliminated; chafed wires, bad relays, plug and coil wires, the next step seems to be for many people is to hooking up to iBeat or some kind of tuning software. It seems like that is big leap, and out of reach for people who don't have iBeat or don't have access to a competent Husky dealer. While EFI is a big leap from carbs, the old adage is still true; "do you have fuel, do you have spark." On both of these cases, I didn't have fuel. This was a long post but I would to give all the details of my steps to hopefully save someone else time fixing and give them more time riding. Jeff
I have run in to poor running Husky's with old worn out batteries, we have 4 efi Husky's. After my experiences the first thing I would do is ditch the oem heavy lead acid battery and get a Lithium battery that puts out more V then lead acid. The efi system needs good solid power to run right, trust me. There is pics/info on the direction I went here:http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/starter-solenoid-clicking.81275/#post-544478
Good luck Clyde with your bikes and testing devices ... My single EFI Husky sits and waits, for what, I'm not sure ...
Do a load test on the battery. The battery is the key on EFI bikes. If it shows below 10.5 volts while cranking, it will not fire up. Paw Paw
Good write up of a fault finding process. Gives those of us new to FI bikes and infrequent fixers somewhere to start instead of standing around scratching our arse going umm, arrgh?
Keep in mind that the lithium batteries are sensitive to vibration and mount them in rubber/styrofoam. My bike idled fine and revved out fine but coughed and missed in the middle ... bought a cheap Harbor Freight fuel pressure tester and plumbed it in - fuel pressure was fluctuating at mid-rpm's. I went in the house and thought about it ... since it didn't make much sense I went back out and hooked a dvm to the battery and found that voltage was jumping around at mid-rpm's. I put the original lead acid back in and the bike ran fine ... at certain rpm's the lithium battery was intermittent shorting out.
interesting in many ways , pals . Especially as i will be riding on trails in Spain (still some SWM dealers) to Morocco ( no SWM dealer neither serious mechanic except in main towns maybe ) ... I was thinking the EFI was a good way ; simpler, smoother, less petrol tban our old carbs... No so sure now ... anyway will take an injector and a gas filter withe me . Had been there 4 tims with my forester ( injected ) now 275 M Km and once with my DRZ.... carb' stuff....
