Fuel pump, battery, or both?

2008 TE450

Hey guys,

I was out for a ride last week, and right near the end of it, my bike started backfiring like a machine gun. It would do this for about 30 seconds, loose all power (even at WOT), and the low fuel light would flash on and off, which is strange because that light hasn't worked since I've owned the bike. Then be okay for about 60 seconds and restart the cycle all over again.

I thought at first it was definitely a fuel pump issue, but now when I went out to attempt a quick diagnosis, the battery was almost completely toast. I'm not sure if running it will the pump issue killed the battery, or if the cause of the issue is the battery itself.

When I turned the key on, the fuel pump (I think) clicks away. I took a video of it.



I will bring it to my shop to properly diagnose, but was hoping someone had some input in the meantime, as my shop is a good 2.5hr drive away. Any thoughts?

Try another battery, jump it from your car bat.
Yes I know some will say not to but have done hundreds over the years never had a problem.
Some jumper cable clips are so big watch out for grounding on the frame.
Later George

Having 4 efi Husky's in our garage and having 3 of them experiencing gremlins like yours, all 3 of them were caused by a bad battery. The ecu need's the proper juice to operate correctly. Replace your battery before doing anything else.

I have these in our '08's and couldn't be happier. I bought the lipo charger also.

https://www.amazon.com/Battery-Tender-BTL09A120C-Lithium-Phosphate/dp/B00F9LPIAC/185-5075354-1299409?ie=UTF8&keywords=battery tender BTL09A120C&qid=1435117640&ref_=sr_1_1&sr=8-1

Thanks so much, guys. I'll troubleshoot the battery first, and go from there.

yeah... it's your battery or the battery connections (including B+ connections further away from the battery).

to test a battery: charge it up; measure the voltage. wait a while (hour, 10 hours, a day whatever); measure the voltage-> if it's still close then put a load on the battery (a bulb for 5 minutes maybe), stop, and measure the voltage again. btw, the 1st voltage you measure on a good battery might be artificially high- but the rest should be 12.5v maybe. if they battery passes this (and doesn't have a loose plate for example) then you're good to go battery-wise.

the symptoms you describe shouldn't be caused by a bad fuel pump (unless it's shorting out somewhere). sounds more like a bad or lose connection (or yes- a bad battery)

That almost sounds like a relay clicking. Deffinately check with a fresh battery. Our bikes need at least 9v to work.