EC250 EC300 2002 reeds Hello gang, so what we thought was 02 gas gas ec 250, is in reality EC300...apparently it has 300cc jug in there.. in any case, continuing to troubleshoot his starting problem, we took top end apart to see what's going on there..and few questions.. 1. should there be a spacer between reeds and carburetor? it looks like Boysen reeds and diagram i saw calls for a spacer there. Is it big deal if I dont have one? it's a tight fit for carb already..so spacer will make it even tighter. also, one of the reed petals is not closing completely in natural state, is it a problem? I will try to post picture later. 2. what's the acceptable side to side freeplay on the conn rod? thanks!
I believe the reed cage spacer if used will help increase velocity. If the reed petals aren't closing or are deteriorated, shredding or fraying on the edges regardless of what composite material they are composed I would replace them. Check to make sure the surface under the petal is flat and there is no obstruction on the reed cage surface. They should close and seal up completely. Somebody please correct me If I'm wrong on this. Iv'e run reeds and full cages from Mossbarger, Tony Doukas, Boyesen and others and some of the single petal type designs unlike the Boyesens you could flip over to use the opposite side to get a tight seal again before throwing them out if they are not visually damaged. I have done this more than a few times over the last 28 years. As for the clearance on the rod you will have to check with someone else about that as I don't have the specs that some others I'm sure do have.
for a fix yes flip the petals, best to replce but to get er up and running its fine to flip. and like big timmy said complete seal is proper. reed spacers also what was stated i played with spacers on my old 250 they do change the feel, but heck lack of space remove it go to stock settings
GG 300 reed spacer is standard to adjust crankcase volume as the motor was originally designed as a 250 as well.
If you can squeeze the spacer into place and get the spigot on the aircleaner side and the carb into the spigot tight or not I would run the spacer if at all possible. Force feed it in there and call it a day. It may make a detectable difference on these full case reed motors. You may be pleasantly surprised of the response and difference. I would say if you use the clutch alot to keep the engine in the meat of its powerband and ride it hard you will feel the difference of it staying on the pipe with out it falling off. My opinion. It'll like it and so will you.
KS9mm, The 300s can get wild without the spacer, most prefered them. This is especially true if the CDI is the original 250 unit as it has a more aggressive curve than the factory 300 CDI. Spacer should only be 5mm thick if I remember not 8mm like the Moose spacers. The bike should have a Boyeseen RAD valve. The casting of this part is GG specific as far as spigot angle, but the cage part is the same as one for a Honda CR250R, so those reeds fit. You can also use a VForce and a separate manifold from a '05+ GG. VForce is the same bolt pattern as Honda CR250R. The motor is nothing exotic, uses a Honda CR250R rod kit, so those clearances apply. PM me your email, I have a factory GG engine manual .pdf I'll send you.
There you go. Parts interchangability is cool. Slip that spacer back into place and get back on it. It will make a difference on the 300cc as it sucks more and thats a good thing. Full case reed engines are very much a different animal compared to the old 2 strokes with a reed cage mount and intake port on the back of the cylinder. The case reed engines of today have a massive swept area for intake transfer and boost ports and a spacer creates area around the reed petals that allows for and can create more velocity.
thanks All! I am completely lost now!! I am thankful it's not my bike btw, my WR300 has no spacer. is this it? http://www.ebay.com/itm/HONDA-CR250...Parts_Accessories&hash=item5d312f16e8&vxp=mtr
