125-200cc Getting A Eg Cr144

thanks for viewing. I recently sent my cyl out to eric for a overbore. he mentioned that i should start by upping my pilot 1 size which i thought sounded reasonable. only mods are thin base gasket and pc pipe with arrestor. so i went on ebay and erroneously bought some mikuni pilots (wrong model). then when i pulled my jets i found that i had a 50 in the pilot. surprised as i have change the main around and always landed at 460. the bike rips but never idles , which is not a problem for a mx bike. all i care for is how well it comes on the pipe and top end. so my question is should i still up the pilot?

I would ask EG for recommended jetting for your location and riding. He knows and supports his motors better than anyone

I would avoid EG and get a factory 144 or better yet a WB 165.

Is there a backstory to this recommendation? I've heard plenty good about Eric, and I'm wondering if there is something I don't know. That said, I don't think you can go wrong with factory, WB, or Eric -- or Millennium for that matter.

It seems like I saw someone on here that had one done and the power valves were done incorrectly causing the bike to eat pistons/rings quickly. Walt might remember more, If I recall correctly he helped the guy fix it.

Ah, okay then. If that is the case, choose one of the other 3 good options!

Had an EG 144 on my 04 and my 07. Nice work and as Nice as factory 144. Does not have the versatility or pull of a WB 167 but 23cc is a lot on such a small motor.

The EG kit that had an issue was a quality control issue not EG's personal work. I think anyone that does a ton of motorwork is going to have something slip through the cracks once in a while especially when you deal with his kind of volume/extra employees. The 144 and 165+ are very different motors. A well done 144 will probably have equal or more peak HP due to motor architecture. The big bore is more rideable for the rider that wants more torque/bottom end for single track type work.

As humans, mistakes happen, period, you just try to stand behind your work and fix any issues. For me dealing with fuel types in places like Australia was definitely a learning curve.

oddly enough I received my cyl back with piston, gaskets, extra ring, the whole 9 today. I put it together and on the third kick was alive. I can already feel the difference just free revving it and it seems to rev way quicker with a little bit more bar vibration. so far i am satisfied with the turn around and service. not to mention it was less than i was quoted. i will keep anyone interested up to date on this. thanks

Walt do you have any input on jetting?

I am probably the least qualified to talk about jetting. I have been running metering rod carbs for almost 7 years now. Not because I couldn't get the mikuni or Keihins to work well, just struggled to do it when riding 5-6K elevation changes in one ride and the fuel economy was much better with the metering rods. JMO.

we have 150 and 165 in 2009 / 2010 and run TMX and jet size should be around 20. I run 18.5 in 165 and 20 in 150.

Lankydoug on this site has it well figured out. Look at older posts on RM needles as well. Which we have as well. Much better than standard husky needle.
If you cannot get idle air screw to behave and react then pilot is probably too large. move down until you get decent control of speed on idle thru air screw.

Check your jets carefully. Altitude is an issue as well we are at 300m.

Both ours will idle without interference for ages..........

My daughter idles it around without issue.

the bottom end will be cleaned up and this will assist transitioning to mid then top.

thanks for the reply. I have adjusted and it appears that i am moving in the right direction. I put a 40 in the pilot and have the airscrew at 1.5 out. it cleaned the middle up a ton and the transition from low to mid is worlds better. If I can give a review of this big bore . I love it. It pulls a gear higher than it used to and the mid/top porting has zero signs of signing off early. and moved my roost pile at the exit of turns a solid 10' back. still doesnt feel as torquey as my buddies stroker ktm 150 but my top end is no joke. It appears as though Eric was right on the nut. one size up on the pilot from stock.for anyone interested here is a link to a youtube vid. this is before the jet adjustment and you can hear it.
View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nuhFmN0R344&t=30s
thanks guys

sounds good and healthy

thanks, it was'nt far off here but after the pilot jet change it does'nt have that little stammer in the middle, i you should hear it now.

I tried pilot sizes from 20 to 45 and ended up with a 30, and it runs really crisp on the bottom now. I'm at 800' elevation

thanks zomby i'll keep tinkering

now that its jetted

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View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t6jchIYV_yc&t=135s

I just wanted to update. I recently acquired a 2008 crf250 that I kind of like. It pulls off of the bottom good and being a fat guy it is sprung pretty close but, I have been taking the husky ergo for granted for a couple of years . It's huge for basically a 125. I never get arm pump and my stand up effort is much lower than anything i have ever owned. I'm 6'2 210lb and the husky is geometrically a perfect fit. just an fyi for other bigger riders

I'm 5'6" and 145 and it fits me better than any bike I've ever ridden. It just feels natural.

Interesting comment on the red Husky ergos. I'm 5'11/150lb with 33" inseam and sleeve. The peg to seat feels an inch or so short for me and strains my abused knees, I use mini-hi bend bars to open up the cockpit a little. I stand most of the time and stock ergos are close but don't work for me, though better still than many other bikes.
Planning to try a tall seat to help with transition to standing up