Handle bar rubber mounts

G'day

Want to talk about the rubbers on the triple clamps but more about the metal tube and the washers at each end

As they are tight and the metal on metal when they have moved during a crash the metal has become damaged on the surface on the washers where the sleeve contacts.....

So when they are tightened they then force the bars into a twist.

How to fix as I have tried to buy rubber killers for it (alloy cones)

But can't get any in Melbourne .......as I said the metal as washers are damaged so how can this be fixed?

Please share your ideas.....maybe get some cones made perhaps


Adam.

i think you can buy the cones from ballards - i just loosen and re set the twist

I don't understand this part:

Just replace the rubber cones with metal ones, the rubber pieces are a bad design. BRP should have no problem shipping you the cones (I think they might be backordered right now but they will get them back in stock eventually). In lieu of that, any half decent lathe guy could whip up a set in short order.

It is the worst set up ever. I don't understand engineers sometimes...oh well. Not one pro that I know of ran the stock set up when Husky was still Italian...it just didn't hold up, yet they never changed/improved it. Not a money question either...space the 2 bar mounts out, chuck the crappy top clamp...done.

Unfortunately - as mentioned before - BRP is out of stock. I have been trying to get some from them for 2 weeks.

If you want to, you can tweak your set up just by turning sharply against the turn stops. I have used that to straighten things out at times. I have also cut the top clamp and use it as 2 individual pieces. I like my huskies, but that set up has driven me nuts on every single one of them

I never really thought about this but I have the same trouble too most rides. if I bin it hard with the bars turned full lock they'll twist in the triples to the point where I have to undo top or bottom triple bolts to straighten. you can hear it creak sometimes when you do this. pain in the arse really. every other bike its just the bars that twist in the mounts so you can put it opposite lock to the way its bent then smack the end of the bars to straighten. may look into the cutting of the top clamp, makes sense. yep BRP for bar cones, pretty anodized red or black(not that you see them). get 10% discount for being CH member(theyre only $25 bucks or something plus postage). got em on both my bikes!

Hey MR Bagga

How can I order these...from here?


I may give this to our apprentice to sort on the lathe in the end....
a foreigner for me ....

just ring or email BRP(billet racing products I think it stands for). cost me like $22.50 plus $15 postage to Aus. EZ. red or black makes no diff as you cant see em. I hated the flex you got with the rubber cones, felt loose to me & even worse with bar risers. I like mine tight...bars I mean...I think

I had the same exact issue as you describe it. The fit between the tube ends and washers are somehow not right. When I look down at the bars, there's a noticeable skew if you eyeball the bars against the fork caps.
To fix it was rather easy, and it can be done even if the holes in the washers appear off-center.
First, I bored out the metal tubes so the bolts slide thru easy. It seems the 'crushing' action with the washers flared the tube ends inward and the bolts wedged themselves in.
Second, I lubed the inside of the rubber cones with silicone spray so the tubes glide in and out easy. You'll need to do this in preparation for the next step.
Third, I reassembled everything using random rotations of the washers and tubes until the bars lined up with the fork caps and cranked it down.
So far, it hasn't shifted into a skew and I finally enjoy a nicely aligned front end. I could easily say that mine was skewed not from a crash, but since day one off the showroom floor.

Excuse for resurrecting this old thread.

Do anyone know if the billed aluminium cones from some Jap bike does swap for the Husky WR300 2010 ? I only can found the cones from ZETA around here and I think some of these should fit:

http://zeta-racing.com/clamps/rubber_killer/index.html

What do you think ?

Thanks !

..the same for me, actually with the same question regarding the rubber killers, because the usual re-sellers list the Austrian HVAs only



By the way, the rubber mounts from 1990 to 2010 are cylindrical, from 2010 to 2014 conical.


I have the last version of bar mounts (2013/2014).


Earlier bikes have bar mounts with parallel clamps, for 1 1/8"-bar from the most versions up to 2012, excepted some bikes in 2006/2007 which had 7/8"-bars.


Before 2006, the mounts were different and the distance between the fixation bolts was 86 mm instead of 93 mm.


jeanjean

They all share the same crappy arrangement with the spacer abutting the cupped washers, since 1990 (the arrangement of the Swedish Husqvarnas was way better).

The bore in the washers is 10,5 mm, so if it moves a bit ex-centered, it overlaps one side of the spacer with only 5/10 mm, which is clearly not enough...




Suzuki has the same arrangement on the RM/RMX/RMZ, but the spacer has 13 OD, so the overlap is bigger. And maybe they don't bore the washer with 5/10 mm gap were 1/10 would be enough.

Honda and Kawasaki clamps are much better, with the 12 mm cylindrical part on the bolt.
But if you bend it by an heavy crash, you cannot just replace a standardized bolt but have to go to your Honda or Kawasaki-dealer to buy a new lower clamp, or at least the Honda or Kawasaki specific bolt, if available separately.

I've read somewhere in this forum that the Kawasaki clamps would be direct fit to the Husqvarna triple clamp. Can someone confirm?

If staying with a close-to-original arrangement, in my opinion, the best would to bore the cupped washers to 12 mm ID and to use 4 mm longer spacers.
The old spacers (1990 to 2005) are 6 mm longer (39 mm instead of 33 mm), so the could be used with an additional 2 mm washer.

...somewhere crazy that they weren't able to improve this design during 25 years, with all the bikes having a twisted handlebar at least after the first contact with the ground...

jeanjean

Edit: more pics here
http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/2010-te250-power-up-and-protection-and-my-introduction.17845/page-2

Well I forgot to update this thread to be honest, some years ago I bought the Zeta cones, conical with the same dimensions as stock rubber (I think they are for Honda)



But I had to modify them a little bit to fit correctly as the flat side is too big in diameter for the dimensions of the handlebar mounts. I just trimmed some material from the edge to 'chamfer' it a little bit.
But you may also use some smaller washer or something. I also put some new screws in 12.9 strength and didn't have a problem since, work like a charm.

Cheers.

Used these on my 630, same as the 610. They probably have others to fit various Husky products if you look around their site.

https://www.brpmoto.com/index.php/h...qvarna-nylon-bar-mount-bushings-bmi-1007.html

Hurky, good to know that Honda-bushings fit.

Kirbybikes, the nylon brp-bushings wont fit on my bike because I need conical ones.

I think, for the people who want to keep the rubber bushings to reduce vibrations, the best way to avoid twisting of the bar mounts would probably be to connect screws wit a horseshoe-shaped part below the upper triple clamp (similar to a v-brake booster on a bicycle).

What I intend to do on my bike is to replace the spacers with the longer pre-'09 spacers and to drill out the cupped washers at 12 mm inner diameter. I may need to add an additional 2 mm-washer with 12 mm inner diameter.
I may also change the bar clamps for individual ones.
I'm riding leisure motocross, so if I twist the bar clamps, it's not a matter to go to the paddock to loose the nuts to straight them back.

jeanjean

P.S. I apologize for my inaccurate English. I'm not a native speaker.

One year is gone, and I eventually get my bar straight. I rasped 2 mm from the collar, from 33 mm to 31 mm, and did't torque the nut too much.

However, I'm surprised how much the bar is able to move. I assume several mm back and forth.

I may try the billet bushings. Unfortunately, the BRP bushing are not sold in Europe, and shipping would be something like 65$, so the Zeta bushing may be the way to go.

Hurky, could you please confirm yours are the honda ones? Do they have 10 mm or 12 mm ID?

The taper of the original rubber bushings is 18 mm at the bottom, 22 mm at the top, for 11,5 mm length.

BRP says, the Honda rubber bushings don't fit the HVA upper clamp, but apparently, they should...

Did someone else try other billet bushings as the BRP?

Thanks in advance,

jeanjean

I asked Zeta about the dimensions of the Honda rubber killers (part number ZE37-0311)

The reply was:

So I don't think they fit the HVA upper clamp.

jeanjean

Hi there, I'll search for my emails about that order I placed 3 years ago, if not I can also measure the cones but that must wait for next week... I think I can find that email.

Regards.

Even better, I found the blister were I'm storing the OEM rubber mounts, Zeta Ref. is: ZE37-0311



My handlebar was twisted a bit and I just adjusted it and took some photos of the mount:



Inside: 12mm


Outside total: 27mm


Big Taper: 22,5mm


Small Taper: 18mm


Length: 18,5mm

These fit perfectly my WR300 2010, but as I mentioned before the original raisers are recessed and you need to remove some material making a taper on the flange or maybe just use a smaller washer. You can see what I mean in this picture:




Cheers !

Thanks a lot for your very detailed feedback, Hurky.

As I can understand from what you wrote and from the pictures, the shape of the cone of the Honda-inserts is the same as the shape of the cone of the HVA-inserts.
However, the zeta-inserts for the Honda are around 3 mm longer, which can be see on the pictures, as there is a gap remaining between the collar of the inserts and the triple clamp.

I don't have the issue with the inner radius of the 10 mm spacer colliding with the collar, because I don't use it. I have a cupped washer instead of the spacer, which I could simply remove. The bottom of the bar mount is flat and would not have any interference with the insert.

I'm 1.77 m and I find the original bar to high, without the 10 mm spacer. I must be even worst with the spacer...

En tout cas, thanks again for your contribution.

jeanjean

...found a nice solution to my bar mounts issue...



jeanjean