Handlebar Bend?

Discussion in 'Common Items on Husqvarnas: Tires/tubes/grips/etc' started by 420skirider, Nov 6, 2008.

  1. 420skirider Husqvarna
    A Class

    Location:
    Phila, Pa
    I have a 2007 TE 250 that I am going to put 1 1/8" bars on (using a BRP damper/bar mount) and I'm just trying to get input on what "bend" most people prefer. Holding them in the dealer showroom is not the same as on the bike. Any suggestions?
  2. GoFaster Husqvarna
    AA Class

    Location:
    North CA
    I have used CR High on two bikes now with good results.
  3. gem Husqvarna
    A Class

    Location:
    British Columbia
    +1 on CR High.
  4. Motosportz CH Sponsor

    Location:
    Vancouver WA
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    2021 TE250i, 570 Berg, 500 KTM, 790R
    Other Motorcycles:
    many
    It's a very personal think but CR-high seems to be a standard. I'm running the Easton EXP bars with the CR-high bend and love them.
  5. Creeper Husqvarna
    AA Class

    Location:
    Ravensdale, WA.
    Bar chat time...

    Most folks like a sweep in the 47 to 57 degree range on their bars. The CR bend would fall into this category. Most folks like a 90 to 110mm rise, with taller folks going for riser extensions, or bars with as much as 120mm rise.
    One of the most popular "joe average" bars for Pro Taper is the "Windham RM Mid" which has the same width as their CR high, 4mm taller and 6mm less sweep at 800, 99, 54... vs. the CR high at 800, 95, 60 mm.
    One of the most popular bars for Fasst Co. and their "Flexx bars" is 12 degree (54mm sweep) moto and enduro bar with multiple rise and width options.

    Optimal rise is a function of your height, inseam, arm length and seat/bar/peg relationship.
    A good example of this is you love your bars but your pegs are too high... so you get some Fastways or other peg that has a "low-boy" position.
    Now your bars are too tall (yes, bars can be too tall) and you love your pegs... but your bars suck. Choices choices.

    Optimal width is just a hacksaw away from too wide. Measure twice, cut once. :p

    Optimal sweep is what your wrists are "happy" with. Not many riders like a sweep angle greater than 60mm as it causes your hands to rotate outward and put undue lateral stress on your wrist joints... which in turn can cause numbness in the hands and cramping in the arms.
    There is no "best sweep" for all however, as the neutral angle of the hand can vary from individual to individual.

    40mm is about the least sweep I've seen on dirt bike bars, while 62mm is about the most.

    "CR Bend" can vary a bit from maker to maker... sweep angles, depending on what "CR Bend" can run from 53 to 60mm.

    For me, an old guy with hands and wrists that have been broken more times than I can recall, the sweep angle is my number one priority, followed by rise.
    I can live with too much or not enough rise, but I can't live with too much sweep angle... it has to be no more than 53/54mm.
    The greater the sweep past that figure, the sooner my hands go numb and dumb. :oldman:

    New dirt riders make the mistake of getting too tall a bar... thinking that when they stand, they're suppose to be able to stand straight up with no bend in their bodies.
    This is OK if your a old guy or a cruiser as it can be the most comfortable, but if your an aggressive rider, you want some bend in your knees, waist and arms, and too tall a bar will screw up a "elbows out, balls to the walls agro-attack", riding position.

    Once you find a bar bend that suits you, you tend to stick with it. I've been using a Pro Taper Windham or CR type bend with an 800-806mm width, 52-54mm sweep and 95 to 105mm rise (a little bike dependent) for years and years.
    They fit my body, fit my riding style and work on anything I put them on... but, they may not be the best bar for you. :excuseme:

    C
  6. Motosportz CH Sponsor

    Location:
    Vancouver WA
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    2021 TE250i, 570 Berg, 500 KTM, 790R
    Other Motorcycles:
    many
    Nice. Thanks for taking the time. :thumbsup:
  7. Creeper Husqvarna
    AA Class

    Location:
    Ravensdale, WA.
    I'm old and tired... it's this or sex with the wife. :eek:
    268fords and kerlinger like this.
  8. 420skirider Husqvarna
    A Class

    Location:
    Phila, Pa
    Thanks for the input everyone. Every bit of information helps.
  9. Norman Foley Husqvarna
    Pro Class

    Location:
    Trumansburg, NY... The Beautiful, Finger Lakes
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    82 250WR 86 250WR 93 WXE350 03 TE610
    Other Motorcycles:
    '85 Fantic 300 '12 HUSABERG TE250
    I've had my share of wrist injuries and working as a horseshoer for 30 years has made me a poster child for repetetive motion syndrome.

    I had mostly used a CR bend over the years. A few years ago I had a revelation. When I bought my used '01 TE400 it had Moose CR Lows on it. I thought fine, these are "My Bars". I had huge wrist and hand problems though. I thought it was the 4t vibration thing going on. I talked to Fran Bottone and he suggested a bend with less sweep. I went with a 7/8" Pro Taper Suzuki Team Bend and added a Boyesen Flex Grip (Now called Shockout). This solved the problem for me.

    I now run a straighter bar on my main bike ('02 WR125). I used Magura Junior SX Fat Bars. A nice straight, narrow bar, some guys don't cut them at all. I tweaked my wrist really bad, crashing in some sand whoops at the Curly Fern Enduro in '07. This led to me going for the Flexx bars, mini bike, straightest bend. I run the softest (blue) elastomers. I still run the Boyesen Flex Grip. This combo works great for me.

    I still run CR's on my '82 250WR, but these are much straighter than the old stock "Chopper Bars". I run the stock bars on my '03 TE610E. I only ride this bike in "DS mode", if I got more serious with it, I'd have to upgrade to a straighter bar and probably the Flexx set up.
    Norman
  10. justplayin Husqvarna
    AA Class

    Location:
    SNJ
    YZ 80 bars.......Yes mini's:D
    They mount up perfect, are the perfect width for the south jersey woods and you do not cut anything off the ends so all switches and perches fit.
    Normally I ran CR Mini's but they didn't have them atthetime so YZ it was.......and I love them:D
  11. NWRider Husqvarna
    AA Class

    I don't like a lot of sweep as it kills my hands and moves me too far back. I like the KX High, some RM bends, and the older KTM bends. I was running YZ85 bars but decided that tall bars for a tall rider are over rated. I wanted to get my head over the bars when I stood so I went lower on the bars. Ended up with some Fly CR Highs because they have a lot less sweep then normal CR Highs (not sure why they even call them cr high).
  12. Darkside Husqvarna
    AA Class

    Location:
    SF Bay Area
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    none left
    Other Motorcycles:
    beta, ktm, aprilia
    I'm 5'7". I removed the bar risers from my te250. When I install a Motosportz damper I switched to a CR low to compensate for added rise.
  13. hammer Husqvarna
    AA Class

    All the CR high bends I see are all 62mm sweep.
    Factory bars on my TXC are 60mm and I found that was too much. I use the Henry/Reed 57mm or the Windham RM Mid 54mm. these are much easier on my wrists.
  14. WSA Husqvarna
    B Class

    Location:
    Reno, NV
    Anyone know what the width, rise and sweep of the stock TE450 bars are?

    What would get close to equivelant if switching to the 1 1/8 bar BRP setup?
  15. Creeper Husqvarna
    AA Class

    Location:
    Ravensdale, WA.
    I think over half the people here are poster children for some kind of malidy... or just geezers. :oldman:
  16. raisrx251 Husqvarna
    AA Class

    Location:
    Virginia
    Well I will throw another in the ring. I kept having trouble with hands hurting after riding a little while and switched to the Pro Taper Pastrana bend also called RM low. I aggree that tall riders think they should have tall bars which is not the case IMO. I am 6'3" east coast woods rider and love this bend. My only advice is don't buy too expensive of a bar until you settle on the bend that feels best to you. Takes a few to make sure. That and don't cut down too short as the leverage helps in the turns, unless you are riding the sticks all the time.
  17. chamber66 Guest

    Interesting reading. I have just aquired a TE450 and have been suffering a lot of pain in my elbow and forearm, i put this down to the buzz comming up through the bars. After reading this it sounds like it could be down to the rise and sweep of the bars (standard).
    I'm quite a short rider and ride a variety of terrain. So just wondering if anyone has any recomendations that could cure this problem for me?
  18. hammer Husqvarna
    AA Class

    width 790 height 82 sweep 60

    Hope that helps
  19. meslowmelive Husqvarna
    B Class

    i really like the henry reed also for standing and my wrists , i dont like to much rise or especially sweep it sucks , in the evo pro tapers , there
    800 92 57 and i reckon the above measurements are wrong for the standard measurements on a 08 te 450 as the standard bars are higher than my henry reeds when i put them up on the bike the sweep and width are very similar as the measurements state . but the standards are higher than my henry reeds by at least 10-12mm . i like the standards but something is just not right with me so i'm swapping over to my old bars , note i did shave 30mm off my seat height so thats probly the reason the bars don't feel right , they didnt feel right when the seat was standard either 3500kms and i thought i would get used to them .

    dumb arse i should have just used my bars i was happy with :applause:
  20. surly Husqvarna
    AA Class

    So Creepy how would one establish proper bar height for woods work?

    I generally look like I am having a seizure when riding off road and too thought I should be able to "stand up". My position is likely influence by my lack of throttle control and the fact that I'm riding a 08 te510. Seat time will help that some.
    My 640A bars are high but that's mostly dirt roads and it works very well for that (it aint no woods bike with me on it!). Anyway, different bikes so I want the Husky set of for woods work with some dirt roads thrown in and I would appreciate your wisdom :professor: