All 2st Hard landings/deflecting

Another suspension question. I ride a 2009 wr300. I'm 5'8 180lbs. The compression and rebound clickers are just about all the way out on my bike. Alot of times I get flung around a bit after going over logs or a series of rocks or roots which there of alot of where I am. Should I being tightening the rebound clickers some or is there some other way to make the suspension react better to the terrain I ride over?

I ride with a couple of guys with those Marrzochi Forks. They had some new valves installed in them to take out some of the harshness. What I ended up doing was put in a thinner weight of oil and lower the level in the forks 20mm or so.

I have heard lowering the fork oil level is a good trick. I would just like to feel some more confidence like when I go over a rough spot I'm not going to end up on my head.

Add some rebound then try it, should make a big difference if you're all the way out on the rebound adjustment.

Those are those tc 50 forks. Mine did the same thing and sent them out for valve job. I spent a lot of money and they were better but still kicking out in the front. Generally, you need to drop one spring size from specs. I am 190 and should have .44s I had to go .42s. Then the fix is to install the Riders Edge valve kit, with new shim stack that they design for you ($200). Then he tells you to go 5wt oil in both chambers. Finally, run 265 to 275cc in outer chamber. Riders Edge does tons of these forks and knows the fix. Go up in common topics, suspension settings and look @ the valves. You have to do it to flow more oil. My two cents, but it made them work like top rate forks. You might have to go .40s with your weight or the added weight of your bike might land you on .42s.

You don't need to go spending money mate, use the adjustment that's there before you go spending anything. If all else fails then maybe look at putting your hand in your pocket but until you've exhausted the adjustments that you have for free save your money for tyres or oil.
Dartyppyt, suggesting that someone needs to spend $$$$££££ on their forks with revalves, springs, shim stacks just because thay have a handling problem isn't good advice.

You learn from experience, shortcuts, previous mistakes, others knowledge. What's a forum for, other than asking for advice. Now it's how you use that advice for your benefit.

Today I did some riding. Went up a couple clicks on rebound. Left the compression alone. Seemed a bit better. Did some hard riding lots of rocks. Might try and go another click or two and see how that works. I want to also try and let a bit of oil out of the forks and see how that works before I spend the big bucks.

Try this; Replace the cartridge fluid with Silkolene 2.5 wt RSF. Replace the outer chamber fluid with Castrol full synthetic ATF at the min. amount. Then back the preload clip off one groove. Set your rebound clicker at the recomended stock setting and the compression 4 clicks from full open.

These are the open chamber forks on my 09 250. I was all over the place with clickers on mine and they still deflected alot. Then I changed to Silkolene RSF 5 wt, 120mm oil level and went back to near the middle of the adjustable range with clickers. 10 clicks out on R and 15 out on C and they are working pretty good now. I weigh 195 without gear, so if you're 180 lb you may want to try 5 wt at 130mm or 2.5 wt. You aren't using the stock POS front tire are you? When I changed that it really helped the front end.

My 09 had assembly grease packed around the valving like candle wax which I'm sure wasn't helping anything. I cleaned everything out really well and went with 5w and set the level at 130mm. There is still some harshness in the mid stroke but it was a big improvement over what it was. 2.5 weight would have been better but my local cycle shop didn't have any and I wanted to ride. I intend to get my forks re-valved but I want to get them as good as I can so that I can relate my current set up to the guy doing the re-valving. I weigh 210 with no gear so your results may vary. I'm also 6'6" so I can put more leverage on my suspension than the average guy.... until I get tired. lol

Opps. Sorry, I don't know what I was thinking. The problem with RFS 2.5 wt in open cartridge is they will leak at the seals really easy. I've tried it in several brand of fork with similar results.

Zooks just have very small ports and tend to hit hydro-lock point pretty easy. So they tend to feel mushy yet spike on hard hits. Light wt. oils help.

Hall's does a good job of revalving. I had them take out about 25% of high speed valving. I also had to put in .40kg fork springs. Comes with .42kg. Too heavy. Sags weren't right. I also had to increase rear spring to a 6kg.
Put your rebound back to stock and then raise your oil level. You can even try PJ1 2.5wt. I have 110mm oil of Maxima Racing fork fluid 5wt. Back off compression till you are bottoming softly and then go back in one or two clicks.

as above try 5wt oil and 135mm height, then try clickers, might pay to rebuild rear shock re shim and re gas.

No, definitely not using the stock front tire. That was not good at all on turns. I have been using the M59 which works much better. Thanks so much for the info everyone. Seems to be so much to experiment with. I love the ride of the bike overall, I just would like to have a bit easier time over those roots and rocks so I can pick up the pace some more.

I just want to make sure I'm understanding something right. I went in(clockwise) a couple clicks on rebound on my forks. Still testing, seems a bit better. Compression is just about all the way out. The rear end is coming up and hitting me alot when I cross logs or other large obstacles. The compression is set all the way out on the rear shock also. Should I be turning the rebound clockwise to help stop the rear from bouncing up behind me?

Here is a systematic way of dialing your suspension and help in understanding how it all works.
The follow link helped me a lot: http://www.brucessuspension.com/kb4.htm
And remember the rear suspension also influences the font end stability and steering characteristics.

Thank you very much for the reference.

Great link! thanks