I guess its time to get prepared. Ok so I ride year around. Yes it is Florida so no snow. Although last year only thing that was rough is when it would get into the teens here and there. This year I am going for more comfort on the cold days. I just bought the powerlet heated jacket liner to place in my alpinestar jacket. I also bought the heated gloves. Not sure I need the pants and socks yet. Combined on full power they consume 130 watts. I am pretty sure our alternator should keep up and I am running 70-85 for most of my commute. So running in the higher rpms consistent. Any one have any comments? Curious what every one else is running heated gear wise. Also interested in knowing what or max watts total should be. I have seen it in the past could not find it in a search.
You should be good, but we need to know what else you are running to be sure. Do the math of all your electronics and see where you stand. We've got 400ish Watts to play with. FWIW, I switched my halogen headlight for a LED H4 bulb to save some watts. But I'm running LED headlight, tail lights, LED auxiliary lights, heated pants/jacket/gloves, a phone charger, and a GPS when I'm running full tilt in the Winter. All this and I'm just fine. I switched to the LED headlight just for peace of mind, because I knew I was cutting it close with all that stuff.
I found this page on the Powerlet site which might help in calculating how much excess electrical power we have for running heated gear etc. Here's the critical section to get us started. The way I see the loads stacking up I get about 260w as a fairly common and consistent load. The rest are more or less momentary. Headlight 55w Number plate 5w Instrument panel 2w ECU 25w Fuel pump 60w Ignition 50w so 197w fairly constant, let's say 200w. Intermittent but longer load might include the cooling fan at 60w so I'm going with approx. 260w load for calcs. I ignore brake light and turnsignals. The tail light is LED on this bike so I don't think it's drawing that much, maybe 5w. With 400w to start with it appears we have "about" 140w or so to play with. That should cover most people's needs unless you're really geared up and running Aux lighting. You can certainly save some with a LED headlight and we're not certain how much the actual draw of the components is unless somebody does some measurements. Here's their projections for typical auxiliary loads. My Powerlet heated jacket liner draws 105w at max output which I never use, I rarely go over 50% and can be switched to 60w max. For heated grips Hot Grips states 30w and Oxford says under 4 amps so maybe 40w? and that's using them on max heat. I rarely used my Oxfords on max heat but then I didn't ride in 20 deg F weather either. If anybody has more to add pitch in.
I wouldn't buy aux lights that weren't LED these days. You can save a lot of power there. 20W of LED should be sufficent for most riders. Even 40W total is probably overkill for a bike like this unless you were riding all night, which you're probably not doing on a TR650.
Thank you danketchpel. That was the information I was really curious about. Lets me know that pretty much if I run the jacket liner and heated gloves on full power, heated socks and pants would be taxing. I do not run anything else on off the bike. I use cell phone google maps through blue tooth and radio and no need to charge. Really like the SKully helmet if you have not looked into it you will be in for surprise whats coming down the pipe line.
Keep in mind my estimates allowed for the cooling fan to operate (~60w or so) which would most likely not happen while riding in very cold weather. Consequently you can allocate that 60w towards other heated gear and I'm guessing you'd be OK. I see it as needing about 200w as a base line and less if you swap in a LED headlight. I think you could end up with 200w for your personal gear if you manage it right. I plan to get a LED headlight bulb both to cut power consumption and hopefully increase light output. I also want to try one out and this bike seems like a good candidate. This is the power consumption info from Cyclops for their 3,600 lumen H4 bulb. Power draw 20 watts on Low 30 watts on high. So that gives you another 25w there compared to the 55w stock bulb.
On most of my "Gravel" bikes I have installed a switch to switch off the headlamp when using my heated gear. Once off the county tarmac around here you very rarely see an LEO. Doing this frees up electrons for other duties. I plan to do it to the Terra when I have it torn down for a valve check. I do routinely run GPS, phone charger and heated grips (when reqd) without any noticeable problems (so far).
Just as a note, all heated grips are not created equal. Those with a Hi/Lo switch are running at full tilt on both settings. The Lo setting simply has an inline resistor to burn off some power before it hits the grips. Those with variable settings are rarely running at full tilt, as they use pulse width modulation to cycle the power on/off quickly to control the temps. When you hook up your heated gear, you're likely to see the dash lights dim in conjunction with the pulse width modulation cycles. This will give you a better visual idea of how much pull you're actually using.
The Oxfords I installed on my KLR used the pulse width style of control and were quite hot on high. I rarely used them over 50% but I wasn't riding in temps below 40 or so, cuz.... well it's SoCal. But I think I'd only use ones with a pulse width controller. I plan on installing the Oxfords on the Husky later on after I've got the more important stuff worked out. They feel like such a luxury, once you have them you don't want to go without. It's so nice to be able to use thinner gloves and still stay warm.
Oxford makes a good product, but don't waste your money putting them on the TR650. You pay more money for full "heated grips" to get what the Husky already has, which is PVC tubes on both sides. Your TR is setup for heated grips, whether you ordered them or not. A $19.99 set of Cycle Gear heated grip panels will work just fine. They are normally $35, but they put them on sale all the time. They look like this: That is the heated panel that is just about the same for every type of heated grip out there. There isn't much in the way of technology in heating elements. The design is pretty standard. Now you'll need a controller. This set comes with the simple Hi/Lo (resistor) setup I mentioned earlier. It will never be just right. So instead, spend $47 on the Vari-Heat controller. This simple design tucks in nicely in the headlight housing, and makes the grips work perfectly. www.hotgrips.com/store.php?crn=201&rn=390&action=show_detail The beauty of going this route is that the install takes you less than 20 minutes, and you get to use whatever type of grips you want. Remember, your bike has throttle tubes on both sides already, so all you need is the heated element. The controller is just the icing on the cake that makes it more enjoyable. As a disclaimer, I run heated grips for those "oh shit" moments when the temp drops and I either don't have my heated gloves or don't want to stop. I ride all Winter, and most of those days I'll have my gloves. But on those days when I don't, being able to control the precise heat makes all the difference in the world.
What you're saying is Husky's silly $350 price for the kit is even more silly than I understood. Baring that nonsense, it looks like about a $20 savings over the Oxfords ($20+47 =$70 rounded up vs ~$90) but maybe a slicker controller install, thanks for pointing that little gem out. I've never used that type of heater element. Maybe there's a video on youtube on installing them plus the grips. Can you remove the stock grips easily or are they glued on tight? When I did the KLR I had to shave off the OEM throttle grip using a razor blade as it was glued on forever. The other side slipped off pretty easy with some compressed air. Can you tap into the OEM heated grip power connector? I still haven't found where it is located. I'm assuming it's switched so you don't need to install a relay to keep your battery from draining for those forgetful moments.
Dank, Look in the thread index on the stupid questions thread (in my signature line) you will find a "How to" for this type of heated grip elements that High Five did.
I put a layer of rescue tap on first as an insulator then the element so it gets hotter in the grip on the left side.....
Yep, the factory heated grips are way overpriced. Everything is already there except for the heating elements and the switch. I'm OCD about grips. I'm plenty equipped to remove them without cutting them, but I also know that they will never be the same when reinstalled. So I just cut them and install fresh ones. Being that the tubes are on both sides, don't razor blade the grips all the way through. All you have to do is score them and they will peel right off. Once the grips are off, just peel and stick the heating elements on. It is that easy. No need to use extra tape or anything else since you have the plastic tubes on both sides. I ran my own wiring harness from the battery to the headlight housing for the grips and my LED lights. This allowed me to run better wire than stock. Since I'm running a Fuzeblock, I have a relay ready to go. http://www.fuzeblocks.com/ I run my LEDs, heated grips, both GPS, and heated gear off my Fuzeblock. I run my 12v accessory plug directly off the battery so I can charge my phone when the bike is off while camping.
I have an identical setup. Except I have 2 12v accessory plugs. One is hooked up directly to the battery and stays under the seat most of the time. I only use it to charge the battery when needed. The other is hooked up to the fuzeblock and used for charging mobile phone, Drift camera and Scala intercom. I don't want it to charge while I'm off the bike because I tend to forget and drain the battery.
Has anybody wired up aftermarket heated grips (any type) using the same power source/connector the factory kit uses? I think that's what I will use as a power source, just not sure of which way to go with the grips and controller at the moment.
The thought absolutely crossed my mind. However, the heated grips do not appear on the Husqvarna wiring schematic at all. So I saw no way to find the source without playing the process of elimination game. I saw no value in chasing it down when it only takes about 10 minutes to run a dedicated harness. The advantage of running your own wires is that you can run better quality wire, which will run the grips more efficiently.
I just got the powerlet heated jacket liner and gloves over the weekend. Very easy to wire up with the dual wireless controller. It was 47-56 degrees F in my 30 minute ride this morning and with the gear on I did not even have to turn the heat on. I wear an alpinestar jacket that has a liner when it gets colder can be added and pair of riding over pants I have had for a while. Also a pair of Icon Patrol Waterproof cloves. I think this combination should be good down in the 20's easily. When it gets colder I use a balaclava that covers my face and head to keep it warm. Only needed below 40 degrees F though. I did test the heated jacket liner and gloves on Saturday and they warm up in seconds. Only had on lower settings to make sure the blue tooth controller worked and every thing functioned properly. http://www.powerlet.com/img/productImages/primary/PHG-101-L_p_641_webl.jpg http://www.powerlet.com/img/productImages/primary/PHG-411-S_p_758_webl.jpg http://5cf9f959bf0963c59a2a-252b16f...d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/4/2/4238_black_1_1_19.jpg
Best heated Jersey for riding. View: https://youtu.be/hJavn07lpns?list=PL9ZXdtymjUCzoMEQUG6HlraeiXiM9ZC3i
