I am having a hard time getting straight answer on welding my Husky frame.Anyone with experience welding this type of steel ,especially frames ,would be much appreciated. I heard Tig is the only way to do it,but the type of feed/wire info is all over the board.Also heard using a arc(stick) works good using 310/320 stainless rods. I know someone who works only on aluminum products but just to do a 3" inch crack and purchase a pack of rods ,when I need only one would be expensive. Tips ,place to find smaller purchase quantity or even anyone who give further insight would be GREATLY APPRECIATED!
ER70S-2 is the correct application I believe for TIG and chromemoly. Stainless rods are too hard and crack where it's welded. It's TIG only for structural strength. The idea is that the weld is slightly more flexible than the parent material so it allows for it to live a bit without cracking. Flick Jody at weldingtipsandtricks an email, he is much more knowledgeable than me. I'm sure he covered this somewhere. Found it: chromemolytig From what I know all chomemoly is welded with ER70S-2 at the factory.
THANKS FOR THE INFO...I saw info about this and there was some mention of a newer version of the ER70S-2 called ER80S-2.
E electrode R rod 70 or 80 the yeild strength of the weld or the general ballpark s=2 the de oxidizing agents or the amount of them. I have used er70s6 which has a bit more deoxidizing agents in it silicon mostly I think. There is nothing new about the 80 class. Chrome Moly was used in small tubular framed aircraft covered in fabric perhaps 100 years ago and before "tig" was invented. There is oxy acetylene certification still to the best of my knowledge. The tig is much less metal getting red hot. The de oxidizing agents in an oxy acetylene rod are different than one designed for arc use. There may be a dedicated chrome moly electric rod but it does not really seem necessary. Tig welding frames of the say 81 to 1988 is all I have done. Heat induced pulling is significant. I may wave a torch around a bit after, have not as well, and have not had cracking but I know others have had issues with chrome moly tubing and tig. I doubt the stainless steel is the best choice. Neither magnetic or non magnetic stainless steel really has the same crystaline structure as steel the way I remember it. It really helps having an understanding of phase diagrams to understand these things. I have not done it but Nickel rod could be used I would think, it's melting point is a bit lower than steel and doesn't really have to mix with the base metal like a "normal" weld. My 1988 subframe attachment was problematic and I ended up using a tig bronze rod to keep it in place and that has held up fine. That can be removed (well the steel pieces separated) by heating and hitting with a hammer unlike steel weld. You should be able to get the steel rod by the pound at a welding supply place. I have plenty of er70s6 in 1/16 and 3/32 if you really can't find anything else. It is designed for dirtier material but seems more common in my travels than the s-2.
