Help: Oil pump drive broken

Discussion in '610/630' started by Scribe, May 20, 2012.

  1. Scribe Husqvarna
    C Class

    The bike: 06 TE 610
    The issue: I took the clutch cover off to replace some parts and discovered that one of the tangs on the end of the crankshaft that drives the oil pump had snapped off, putting a hole in the clutch cover housing in the process.

    Right before I'm getting ready for a 1,000-mile plus ride. Fantastic.

    The fix for this is to replace the crankshaft, I would assume. Awesome.

    So my question is, can I safety operate this motorcycle with just one of the tangs intact? I have no idea how long it has already been operating like it was, but it was apparently still pumping oil as the engine didn't grenade.

    PS: This sucks.
  2. jtemple Husqvarna
    Pro Class

    Location:
    Papillion, NE
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    2011 TE630
    Other Motorcycles:
    2013 Kawasaki ZX-14R
    Honestly, I don't know if I'd take the risk. If you unknowingly lose your oil pump on that ride, you're in for a LOT more headache.
  3. DYNOBOB Husqvarna
    Pro Class

    Location:
    Cincinnati (Lebanon), OH
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    TE630
    Other Motorcycles:
    SuperTenere-GL1800-CBR900RR-KLX250S
    Any indication why the flange broke?

    Don't know about their accessibility, Could you drill a hole through the pump tang and remaining flange and safety wire together?


    EDIT. Nevermind, I see the thread on ADV.
  4. meijerclassics Husqvarna
    AA Class

    Location:
    Fort Bragg, CA
  5. Scribe Husqvarna
    C Class

    I'm pretty sure the ear on the crank broke because I didn't line up the oil pump drive with the slot in the end of the crank before trying to tighten the bolts. Stupid, stupid, stupid. Learn from my mistake and make sure that cover goes on all the way before tightening the bolts. It should snug right up with only a light tap or two.

    There was a guy on ADV who did the same thing and ran his bike with no problems on one crank ear, so that's my plan for now. I'll crack the banjo bolt on the line that goes to the head to make sure it's pumping oil. Honestly, the only problem I can see is that it might load that one crank ear too much, or that it would put lateral, rather than rotational, force on the oil pump drive shaft. But there are no bearings that oil pump, it's a pretty stout lobe design, so I'm gonna shop around for a crank and meanwhile hope for the best. (New crank from Hall's: $1,300.)

    That's my sad tale.
  6. SilverBullet Husqvarna
    AA Class

    Location:
    Harmaston, TX
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    2011 TE630
    Other Motorcycles:
    KTM 300EXC, V-Strom650, Super Tenere
    Before I'd shell out $1,300 on a new crank I'd shop around for an expert welder. Looks like it should be possible especially since not high force on the ears.

    _
  7. Scribe Husqvarna
    C Class

    That's what I'm going to do. I know a good fabricator so maybe he has a solution. If so, I'll post it up.
  8. glangston Husqvarna
    Pro Class

    Location:
    Gardnerville, NV and Mammoth Lakes, CA
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    2012 Husqvarna TE 310
    Other Motorcycles:
    2012 BETA 350 RS
    Yeah, I'd bet George would weld that. He could tell you if it was a good solution if you called.
  9. Scribe Husqvarna
    C Class

    It may be weldable, but the best welder I know said forget it. It's hardened and you'd have to know a lot about the metal before attempting it.