Hey there everyone I am trying to see if anyone can offer some help with my JD tunner setting. I have a 2011 husky sms 630 with leo vince full Ti system with a single pipe and i have put a 14 tooth front sprocket and 42 rear, i also have had the PU kit on since the day i bought it. I love this bike and its my first bike to, any ways i have wanted to get rid of the low end surging even with a consistent throttle . I hace been trying to read most of the post about the tunner but everyone seems to be having much better luck than me with just installing the tunner and not even adjusting any thing, well thats definetley not happening for me, i will say also i am not extremely bike savvy but i am learning as i go and i would much rather learn how to do it myself . The problem i am having now is a pretty bad hesitation and a kinda choppy throttle at pretty much any low end throttle. I finally figured out how to set the tunner which to me was a major accomplishment in its own, and i now have set the bike to what JD recomends for my bike as there performance setting and just reving the bike it sounds much smoother but i havent ridden it yet to really see what i did, but i can also tell that the jacked up setting its was on was way to rich. I was wondering if some one else could offer some sugestion on setting on there 630 JD tunner and if my bike was running rich with a higher setting that it was on does that mean i wont be able to run that setting unless i open up the air box more? Any help would be much appreciated, i love my bike and wanna get back to hauling ass around town thanks
1. Do you have the labyrinth/squiggly thing in the airbox? If so, yank it out. 2. Have you opened the airbox at all? 3. You are running 93 octane, right? Ride it around a bit with your new settings and let us know how it does, and tell us the settings, and we might be able to help you get sorted out.
Also, your bike may feel a bit more jerky than stock, because you DID lower the gearing by over 18%, so it's going to be more ... responsive with both throttle and engine braking.
Yeah that orange mouse cage thing is still in there and i can take that out, I have always run premium gas and the gears from the factory i just wasn't really happy with and i am not trying to do a 150mph so i geared it really low because i pretty much just ride in town but i have become very accustom to the throttle and engine braking and braking changes the gears made and i love it, made the bike feel way more alive . I think the setting where just way off on the tunner so hopefully i get some better weather ride in, thanks for the reply
The single pipe would likely make a difference. If you remove the airbox lid maze and open the airbox so that it gets more air, I´d suppose that you could set the JD richer. I made the mistake of setting it much too rich at first and it seemed to be "gagging" at the power. Took it down to little over the original settings and all was OK. I´ve got the twin Arrows, an open airbox and the Arrow EFI. If you put the JD on the bars, you can experiment better. Once set, you can mount it under the saddle for better protection.
I got TE510, TE630 and SMS630 all with JD Tuners, EHS pre filters on the air box and with stock pipes. I am at 1600 meters above sea level and use RON 95 pump gas. The iBeat settings are all 100 100 100 except for the TE630 which is 98 100 100 Yes my TE630 does not like fuel low down. The most dificult part to tune out is the part throttle or the green phase. After many months of going in the wrong direction by giving the green phase more fuel, i finally worked out that it is better use use less fuel on the green phase and to increase the accelerator pump phase (blue / red) as much as possible. Do not be afraid to use very low values on the Green phase, you can always richen up The above approach minimises low down stumble / jerking and allows for great acceleration, the kind where the bike really opens up as you twist the throttle. This appropach works for all three of the bikes. Also, while you are tunning, fit your JD Tuner to the handle bar clamp temporarily (or permanently) as it makes tunning on the fly a breeze My settings are as follows: TE510 - TE630 - SMS630 ------- -------- ---------- Green 3 - 2 - 3 Yellow 4.5 - 4.5 - 4.5 Red 5.5 - 5.5 - 5.5 Green Blue 3 - 3 - 3 Yellow Blue 4 - 4 - 4 Red Blue 5.5 - 6 - 6.5 I have just installed the twin arrows pipes and ECU on the SMS 630 and landed up using the exact JD Tuner settings except for going up .5 on the Red Blue phase. Interestingly enough, the Arrows ECU provides 66% of the benefits of the entire kit, the Arrows pipes provide the other 33% of the benefits and the Arrows ECU delivers it's benefits even with stock pipes.
Don't take the "orange cage" thing out, that's your air filter support. I meant this thing, if it's in there, the thing in the middle.
Yeah i mounted mine under the seat, i really liked that they gave u plenty of wire for diffrent configurations . I would have like to mount it some where a little easy for tunning but i wasnt really thinking it was gonna be such a chore to get it dialed in but i like where its at it looks clean
Thanks a lot for the help with the setting info huskybutha, i wanna make much smooth low end acceleration as i can with tunner and thats sounds like what us did. This weekend is supposed to be really nice other wise i would have gone for a ride today but there was thunder and light. Oh and i left the orange cage thing in
This is EXACTLY what I have come up with (630 exactly the same: twin Arrows open air box). Also found that too much on green was not that good.
So i went for a ride friday and today, on friday i had set the tuner for the factory JD recommended performance setting and it was running really good i almost couldn't even notice any of the previous throttle hesitation, especially in the low end where it was having it even before i installed the tuner and one of the main reason for me buying it, but the power wasn't really anything crazy but did i definitely notice i was wasn't giving it as much throttle as normal and i was moving pretty good so there was a increase but i wanted a little more so today i tried some of the settings you guys recommend and i was popping in out the exhaust at idle and a lot of bogging down when i gave it throttle, to me it seems that means its getting to much gas right? I am going to try the settings organ donor recommend and see what that does. Also if i have it set for a higher fuel setting and its bogging down cause theres to much gas, does that mean that the bike isn't getting enough air ?
Right Keep on reducing your Red Blue untill it stops bogging then focus on getting you Green and Green Blue right. Unless you have a very dirty aifilter or a blockage in you snorkel or airbox, you bike should be getting enough air
Think I inadvertently (sp?) chose the right way of going about setting the JD. As an optimist, I set things too high. Got stutter, popping and loss of power. Then slowly reduced to what I´ve got now. But whenever I take it to the local BMW/Husky dealer to do the servicing I´m too ignorant to do myself, they get carried away and play around with the JD settings. And I then have to start all over again. It´s not much use copying the settings down on paper, as they seem to change a bit over time. Anyway, the bike is now ... deadly (and a bit dangerous in icy weather (maybe could use a switch de de-map).
So i went for a ride today and the bike feels really good, i dialed all the settings mostly to the mid range area and i really liked that, it had no problem launching me to 70mph in a second and it seemed much more comfortable cruising at that speed to, i think that might just be me but i have ridden that bike on the highway a couple times but with gearing and traffic 70-75 is what i feel is at the max end of what i like to run the RPM at. That being said I am happy with how it feels and now i just need to right the settings dowd and maybe fine tune a little later, i just wanted to ride so bad today i just popped the seat off dialed it back and went for a ride and it was smooth the whole time it was nice . I figured since i was already here and you guys all ready answered one of my questions I was wanted some schooling on some pretty basic stuff i am sure for every one else but i dont know much of the general bike knowledge and I wanna know everything i can about this bike so when something decide its wants to explode i can fix it myself and save that cash money $$$ plus i would rather the satisfaction of doing it myself. Ok as far as the tuner goes I was wondering if having the tuner programed to anything really over stock would be affecting the longevity of any the parts on the bike? Maybe fuel pump? This kinda feels like a stupid question cause at the present state i don't really feel like i am pushing the bike very hard and still moving along but i would rather ask then completely screw it up cause i didnt. And last one I aked the dealer what kinda chain worked on my bike,they told me a 520 and he said that was the width of the chain and it was over a $100 maybe more than i felt like paying at the moment and i was on amazon and they had a Renthal that was 520 pitch and 120 links would that work ? Or what makes it specifc to my bike? I have really appriceated the help from everyone, and answering all my stupid questions
Can´t imagine that that the JD settings could do more (any) harm to the bike than the original, pre-powerup condition in which the bike left the factory. As tothe chain and sprocket .... I´ll be looking for replacements soon too.
Rental 520 is the chain you want. Depending on gearing, 112-114 or maybe 116 links is what you need. Stock 15/45 is 112 or 114 link. Spend the money, $100 is average for a good chain. Buy one for $50 and it could cost you $2k for a cracked case when you have a cheap chain break.
Ok thanks for the info, I will probably order that here pretty soon. Would I just be able to take the old chain off and count the links and make the new one the same as the old one? And do I need a Tool to break the chain or does it just come apart at the master link ? Here the link to amazon for the one I was gonna get http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000GVGDZ4/ref=mp_s_a_1?qid=1364865604&sr=8-1&pi=SL75
Should be able to get the original master link off with a couple screwdrivers or a pair of needlenose pliers. The new chain, you just make the same number of links and grind the head off of the pin where you need to cut it and drive the pin out. Make sure and get all the O-rings in the right place in the new chain and lube it up. Also, you may need to loosen the chain if you've tightened it in the past, or you'll stretch it under compression.
Might need a cheap chain press to get the master link in. Put the chain on the sprockets and have it so the chain meets on the rear at about 2 o'clock and this makes it easier to work with the chain.
