Hi gang. Re-installing the rebuilt engine...late and calling it quits for the night as I'm not too knowledgeable on hydraulic clutches. So here's the thing... I went to re-install the clutch slave onto the engine and it won't mate all the way flat/against the seating surface...it's like 4mm or so too far out. The ball in the slave is contacting the protruding end of the push rod. The push rod end is sticking out by about 4-5mm. I'm assuming I'll have to go around to the other side and pull the cover over the clutch, but don't really understand what's going on here so am looking for some education. I did- last winter- pull the basket and had the cup washers re-done, bit I also don't want to go tearing into a freshly re-built engine either if that's not necessary. Any guidance is deeply appreciated. So far I have engine re-mounted back in the frame (obviously), TB re-installed, all wires/cables re-connected and routed and overflow bottle in place. So next will be the airbox, the rads/cooling system and exhaust. Thanks!
Sounds like the adjustment for slack is done up too tight, pull clutch cover off and un adjust clutch basket till slave fits, not having a hydro clutch i dont know if theres a wheel on the lever you could un adjust either. Thats my guess.
Any adjustment needed is taken up by the master cylinder taking in more fluid from your reservoir. Is the piston of your slave cylinder pushed all the way back? I know its an obvious question, but start with the small, easy things. If it is, then for some reason your push rod isnt seating properly at the clutch end. The 610 has a ball bearing only at the clutch end, and i wouldnt want to remove the push rod from the slave side of the motor for concerns of the ball dropping into the cases. You shouldnt have to force it because there shouldnt be any pressure on the clutch when its let out If you are in ANY doubt take the clutch cover off and look at what is going on.
My guess is you pulled the clutch lever in while slave was off. Try pressing the ball in some contacting it with wood, rubber, etc. being careful not to damage it. You do have the updated pushrod with the hex head? Double check your pushrod orientation also to make sure it's not inserted backwards. Also update your blown engine thread. I'm curious as to what the final $$ damage was, parts required and shipping. _
Did you put the pushrod in the engine or was this already inserted from the engine builder? Have you questioned your engine builder about the dilemma?
Thanks guys. I'll try to be brief here- doing this on my phone but kind of shitting small bricks in response to what spice weasel said. . Spice- I'm in this because I just got the engine back from being split and that was 2 states away, and a Lot of headache...so if there's some ball bearing that dropped into my case then I'll be dropping a load in my pants. Anyway- I did slide the rod out from the slave side when I encountered this. It slid out then back in to the way it was easily. When I did the cup washer thing I don't recall a ball bearing- so hoping that's a non issue. Can any 630 owners confirm so I can quit stressing about possibly having caused another case splitting session? Silver Bullet- I'll be sure to update with pics of the cracks in the case halves and parts cost, but not specific labor cost (out of respect for that request by the mechanic- he did me one hell of a deal on labor.) Having said that and w/out a breakout I'm in it so far around 2K. The bottom line was the RH oil screen end coming off- as it turns out not an unheard of problem. Yes- it is the updated rod and it is oriented correctly. I did not squeeze the lever with the slave off. My guess is that I'm up against the basket springs- if I go there and loosen those the rod should go back in, then open reservoir at lever and mount slave, then tighten down springs. Hope you see what I mean- if I start at the slave side w/ rod fully in and mount the slave, then from the other side the springs will accommodate. If anyone can confirm that it's unlikely that I screwed the pooch with whatever ball bearing Spice mentions that's appreciated. I'm away from home all day today and don't wanna be worrying that I may have caused another case splitting session before I even got it all buttoned back up. Seems a remote chance as I recall no BB, but still. Thanks a lot guys- don't know where I'd be without CH!
Fast1: I left the push rod in from when I pulled the engine. I had simply removed the slave and then had mounted a cardboard "plate" in its place for shipping. I figured the shop would want as much of the engine intact as possible so that they could make sure all was working properly (as much as they could, without having the bike to reinstall it into.) I've not talked to the mechanic yet...hoping this is something simple, something chalked up to my lack of exp with husky/hydraulic clutches. If someone can look at the parts fiche to see/verify there's no BB that would be great. Thanks guys!
At a friends house and just hopped on this iPad and looked up the parts fiche. It appears the 610 does in fact have that BB but not the 630. That's good news.
I've compared the parts fiche of the 610 ie with the one of the 2011 630: in the former there is a ball near the rod, in the latter there isn't. I've checked both the clutch drawing and the related parts list. So, Eric, apparently you don't remember any ball simply because there isn't one.
Sorry, didnt mean to alarm you. There shouldnt be any pressure on the push rod unless the clutch is disengaged. It would be like always feathering the clutch. I think the bottom line is we need to know whats happening on clutch side We are only making assumptions here and they can be dear.
Nah- no problem man...you're trying to help. I was just reaching out in case it's something stupid and wouldn't necessitate pulling the cover/clutch. You're right though- just have to pull that stuff and see what's up. I'm just relived that it seems unlikely that it's a big issue Thanks guys.
Spice Weasel wins with start simple (making sure piston was all the way back.) Duh- sorry to have wasted anyone's time. I had checked that and thought it was back because a.) the lever hadn't been touched (or had it? Never know...daughter may have touched it) and b.) I'd pushed on the ball/piston as hard as I could and thought it was seated back. SilverBullet had the right idea- use a piece of hard rubber to get it further back (it goes much further than I'd thought it could.) So it seems good now. Thanks all for your time and patience.
Youre able to fit your slave cylinder without causing damage through making assumptions, you havent had take the clutch cover off and your learning mechanics = WIN Youve had rotten luck, but are doing the best you can. i cant see it being long before youve got it running again, braaaaaaaap
You're a gracious bunch- thanks for the kind words. I used to work plenty on my 2 strokes but that was, oh, 30 plus years ago. All good- when things go right I'm enjoying re-learning and dusting off wrenching skills.
