I have a 09 te310. I seen some where to back off all the way on throttle screw and then turn in 1/4 turn. I was running my bike that way for the last year. I also set the tps at that time too. I am thinking maybe that's why it stalls some times on me. I just check the full throttle % and it was 105.4. If i set the full throttle to 100.4 that i seen in here it idles to high and i con not turn it down with idle screw. What is the correct way to set the throttle stop screw.
I believe the notes on my 08 TE 250 said 2 1/2 turns in. My adjustment is singular but I think it's somewhat equiv to the low position, or idle. How many miles on your bike? Does the stalling happen after the bike is fully warmed up? What is your idle at warmed up? My idle is around 1700-1800 ...
I have about 800 miles on it. I think it happens mostly when really hot and in very tight s/t trails when i shut the throttle off then give it gas. My bike idles around 1800-1900.
Going back to earlier threads and posts on this subject for refferance <here> specifically and here's the whole thread. then there is BCMATS DIY- here All these posts are ones you have obviously based your adjustments from. There are relationships that effect each other that need to be concidered to find the sweet spots- BBCMat goes into great detail explaining- but I think some of it is hard to grasp in the first read for many (I know I reread many of his posts). I had the flameout issue when hot in tight single track until I got the Ibeat and set my bike up. I set it to 100.2 as suggested for the 450/510- the 250/310 is 100.4. Seems you know how to achieve that- I would recheck the TPS so that it was 100.4 again- check that the tps Settings match and click set- while the WOT is 100.4 also. The 2 closed throttle settings in voltages need to match while at the same time WOT needs to be set at 100.4 . I would use that as the baseline. Then you may have to lean or enrichen the CO1 setting. (that's what I did). The "air bypass knob" should effect idle if you are in the balpark. I am not trying to recreate what BBCmat already established- just reafirming and restating what he established. The 1/4 turn DIY EFI Tweak is separate from the above- you can also try that- which would be the above procedure and then adjusting your throttle stop to 1/4-3/4 turns from closed. In short readjust your TPS to 100.4- then test- if flame outs occur only when HOT (I'd) concider leaning CO1 by 1.5% and retest- Which is what I did. BTW- what exhaust and or what exhaust insert do you have. My DB insert is what required me to lean CO1 from what I have gathered so far... If I put the stock Spark arrestor in - it wouldn't flame out under the same conditions. Like I said- I haven't had a flame out or problem at all since I adjusted with the Ibeat last year.
I don't have flame outs. I thinks in tight s/t trails when the bike gets a little hot it is trying to enrich the bottom efi circuit. I have the stock exhaust. I have the racing ecu from husky. It comes with the short db killer. I was just trying to perfect the bike a little more. If i set it to the 100.4 wot it idles at 2100-2200 and i can't turn it down with the idle screw. At that point the throttle has to be open to much. I for got i have a air fuel meter. I'm going to use it and try diferent throttle stop settings and see if it really makes a diferance. I will let you know after the weekend. It's kinda sad i called a bunch of dealers and they have no clue where to set the throttle hard stop screw.
I am calling flameouts and stalls the same thing I guess. Is it stalling and idling too high or was that 2 different symptoms for 2 different settings> Weird that you are that high of an idle- and no control with the Air bypass screw(could be related to your CO1 setting- indicating lean) you could Set the TPS to 100.4 then just turn the throttle stop screw counter clockwise a turn or so until the idle is where you want it- then test from there. Thats BBCMAT's tweak really-
I tried all kinds of tweaks and they just didn't work. I found the flat spot at 4.8% throttle opening. Funny that where the injector with is at its most. I have a spare throttle body and i check that reading. It was at 928 so that is where i set mine and it seamed to throttle good with the idle set to 1950-2000.
After talking to some people and playing some more i ended setting my tps to 957mv with the air screw about three turns out. Idle at 1950-2050. That's where my 09te310 with racing ecu and 97oct gas felt best with out a to high an idle. Co setting i used are 103,103,104.
Glad you found something that worked What does that 957mv Closed Throttle Position show when at WOT %, just curious??? (guessing 100->100.2%)
After pming bbcmat, it's important where the air idle screw ends up. I put mine at three turn out and left it there and started with 100.8 on the wot. It idled to high 2300-2400. I kept increasing the wot number until the idle came down to 1950-2050 and ended up with 104.2 at wot. I think maybe because i have the race ecu and not the stock one i can not come close to the 100.2 wot. And it smooth out the twitchy feeling from zero to just roiling on the throttle.
I installed and setup a race ECU (short db killer kit) on my 510 - have the same idle speed (2300-2400) when setup to 100.2% WOT. The jumpyness in the off-idle transition is intentional to the program - the aggressive "accelerator pump" emulation by the software is easily seen while the bike is running and the throttle is cracked (spike in injection pulse width u/sec). Three turns out is also an excellent position for my idle air bleed screw with the quick TPS / CO1 / 2 / 3 setup I did. (-4 degree C here with high volatility winter fuel) I'm going to drop the co1 value some more and see if I can turn out the idle air bleed. It didn't work with the stock ECU but this ECU is obviously different and may react differently to things I've done in the past. MAT
Not to bring and old thread to life, but I am having a similar issue with my 09' TE310. Idle is high 2100-2300...only idles around 1900 when warming up but as soon as I get her warmed up the idle just creeps and creeps till its hovering pretty high. My hard stop is set at 100.4 and I can turn the idle screw all the way out and it does nothing lol Turning the screw IN will eventually raise the idle...But no matter what I cannot get it to settle below 1900. Why does everyone tell you to set the WOT at 100.4? BTW, CO settings are 118, 112, 110.
Since the beginning when I first bought my bike (6 month ago) I was suspicious about a high idle. On low throttle openings the bike chokes a lot. It drives me mad on technical enduro trails. I have the race ECU installed and the LeoVinci exhaust since it is a Meo Replica. When I first connected to iBeat I could confirm it was true, it was about 2600 rpm, sometimes 2800 rpm. I had TPS of 986 mV at 102.2% WOT. Co1,2 and 3 all at 110%. After reading here and there, I almost did what had done, with the biked warmed tried to lower the rpm by raising the WOT, unscrewing the end throttle bolt until I couldn't move the throttle at all, it seems it was stuck, so I raised it again a little bit and it was working again. The lowest rpm I got is 2250 with WOT at 104% which gives me a TPS reading of 908 mV. Tried to open the idle screw but it seems it does nothing, fastening at some point will raise the idle but unfastening until it touches the shock oil container, the idle stays the same. I changed the Co setting to 100, 105, 107. Now the bike is really smooth at low throttle opening, it seems linear, but I only tried it a couple times around the house. Maybe I did something wrong... maybe I should fasten all the way the idle screw and then unfasten 3 turns and then lower the rpm by raising more the WOT ? I have another problem which I think it's not messing with my idle problem. When I turn left all the way the enrichener lever seems to start working automatically, I have to secure better that cable under the gas tank. Some help will be appreciated.
Sorry, I wish I could be of more help but I am pretty much lost as you are. All I know, is that when I set my CO settings and WOT as mentioned above, the idle became more controllable. And btw, it still isn't perfect...I don't really have full adjust-ability on mine. When the bike warms up, the idle creeps back up 2100+ With that being said, I have also read somewhere that the "idle screw" we are talking about really isn't as much as an "idle screw" as it is a "air screw". So basically, what you are doing is changing the AFR at idle by messing with that screw. Also, I would make sure to set the TPS with each adjustment...then again, I am not really sure why people are changing the TPS to read more than 100 in the first place. Things don't really all add up to me I suppose. I would like to fiddle with it some more before the season starts and get a better idea of what the setting actually needs to be. The problem is, there is little-to-no information on the pre-11' bikes. The 09-10 310's and 250s were sort of a mish mosh of parts and the injection changed in 2011 along with everything else. knowing what I know now, I should of saved a bit more and sprung for a 11'+ bike. -Dan
