HUSKY 420 AE THAT WONT START

Hi guys have an auto husky 420 that i cant start. when i bought it had the motor pulled down by my local husky dealer and was told transmision was in good nik ,and clutches stillhad75% left on them .they got it running for me and ran faultlessly till i took it home .Cant get the f***ing thing running nor can the shop now they have given up after all the mech,s have bad memories of trying to start it have replaced ignition completely good spark fire every 20 kicks but thats it am happy to pay someone to fix it but every time i ask someone they back away,avoid eye contact and make a strange noise .dont want to sell it ,but dont want it to be a dust collector either .HELP

If its got spark then take the carb apart and make sure the floats are not sticking and the choke circuit is working. You can try putting a couple drops of fuel in the plug hole and see what happens,420s are pretty easy to kick through.Also check the kill button .
Bill

Had similar problems with my 390. Turned out to be a couple of things in the end. The cases were filling up with fuel from being kicked over repeatedly, then when it did fire, the plug was fouling instantly and it was dying. The only way to clear out the cases is to turn the engine upside down, and literally empty it out. It was amazing how much fuel would come out (an eggcupful sometimes). I did this a couple of times simply by turning the whole bike over (with help of course) and then turning the engine over using the flywheel with no plug installed to help force the fuel out of the bottom of the engine. I heard from one forum member who has fitted a small drain plug into the bottom of his engine cases so that he can do this without having to turn the bike upside down.

Then a fresh plug and it started and that cleared it out properly. The old plug got it started briefly but was fouling too quickly to keep going long enough to clear it out, but the new plug finally did the trick and she is running great now. I also fitted a new carb as I was originally using a flat slide carb off an 84 250 but I was never sure this was any good (bought it used off ebay and although it looked clean I was never totally sure of it's condition). Whether this really helped or not I am not sure, but having eliminated the carb from the equation at least I know it's ok now.

To start it now, first briefly switch on the fuel so that the carb float bowl fills, then switch off the fuel again. Then kick it through nice and smooth with choke on, make sure to use full kick start travel, and don't prod it. Starts usually on third or fourth kick when cold. Leave the choke on for a few seconds and then switch the fuel on at the tank. This seems to do the trick and it hasn't fouled up on me doing this. Hope this helps.

Thanks guys will try changing carb of my cr390 and seeif that works and Bill this old girl aint that easy to kick over even with alpine stars on its starts to hurt after ten kicks .And Murph the cases are fillin up so hope your recipe for starting will work after the carb change cheers guys advice is much appreciated

If the cases are filling up then you need to check the float level and needle and seat.As for being easy to kick I'm a short legged old guy and have to stand on a crate to kick all my huskys over so maybe that's why they are easy to me.
Bill

I had to take one apart because the crank seal would make it flame out once it was warm and smoke would come out of the transmission breather. I suspect that the lower end filling with gas mixture makes the seal last less time. Strange how the seal looked pretty good but made the bike basically un useable. I just buy the needle and seat the float in the carburetor actuates, no need to go to a totally different carb. Usually there is sufficient gas in the float bowl to not even turn the valve on the tank until some vibration is present. Those needle and seats can look pretty good but mis behave even with an in line filter.

Fran