• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Husqvarna TE 310R 2014 oil drain plug

Use #24 for each dump and check the screen #21 on first oil/filter change and maybe every other oil change. Initially excercise care when removing #22 as some have had issues rounding the nut. Remove hose first makes it easier and good to have a good quality low profile closed wrench for it.
 
I check the oil screen #21 every oil change, it is the pre-filter for the oil pump. I know it's a pita.
 
Is there any reason not to put a magnet on each of these drain plugs? On the 250 drain plug without the hose barb.
 
The magnets tend to come loose on occaision and it would go directly into the oil pump.
 
Be very careful not to over-tighten #22. Use high quality spanners when removing #22 - do a bit of research & you will find that it is common to round the nut off the spigot making it really challenging to remove. Mine was ultra tight from the factory - I have a new one coming due to rounding the nut.
My dealer tells me just 2 finger pressure on the spanner - it cant back out anyway due to the oil line. What surprised me was when I tightened it with 2 finger pressure, it was quite difficult to remove again just 1 minute later ... try it & you will see what I mean.
Ian
 
Just tighten #24 with an allen wrench so that you can remove it with same tool later. Torqued from the factory like #22 is very tight.
 
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