125-200cc Hydraulic clutch for wr150

Playing with the idea of putting a hydraulic clutch on my 2010 wr150. I have a magura hydraulic master cylinder and lever assembly as a spare for my husaberg. Does any-one know what line and slave cylinder assembly is required to do this and where to purchase parts? Thanks

On my 144 I have a AJP master cylinder and a chinese slave and braided line designed for a pit bike of all things, works faultlessly
The 165 has a magura setup taken from a RM 250 that was a direct fit and has also been faultless
The AJP setup has a lighter pull than the magura. its so light some people think its not connected

My KTM has a Magura on it and my Husky has a much lighter clutch pull. I've alos had enough problems with the hydraulic system failing that I wouldn't go out of my way to add one to any bike. Jut my $0.02.

Could not agree more - hydraulics do fail, my TM had a weepy slave, think it took all of 5 minutes to pop a new seal in there so no big deal
every other bike I have owned with a hydraulic clutch gas gas beta husabeg ktm I have never had a failure nor have I had a clutch cable snap since 1978 (SWM)
The only reason I choose to use them is I have rather large hands so the adjustable span ect suits me better
The little Husky dosnt need a hydraulic clutch and im lucky enough to have a few units laying around so have not had to purchase any items, My mate Trig has one on his 125 as he likes mine so much but always carries the old lever and cable with him as do I at any enduro or H H event as it takes minutes to swap back if any thing should go pear shaped
Kelly runs one on his 165 so his view may help anyone decide if its worth the purchase price

There is no lighter cableclutch pull in the world than a modern Husky 125/144 !! For some reason I prefer the organic feel of a cable clutch, hydralic always feels vague or grabby to me while slipping through corners.

Oh man, my 2009 EXC570 BB with a 9.0 Magura and Midwest Mountain Engineering lever is like pulling a hot knife thru warm butter. It uses the entire lever travel to disengage but once you adjust to that it is magic. It makes my WR125 lever feel heavy.

Thanks for the replies, I agree that the cable clutch has a very light pull on the 125/150. I just had the brembo clutch master laying around and was wondering if any-one had done the conversion and their thoughts on it. I will probably stick with cable system(it's simple and it works!)

My 2008 cr125 husky has the best clutch feel of any bike I have ridden and last, on orignal plates still even with 165 kit. I also own a 2012 KTM 250sx and had 2010 tc250 and would not trade for those clutches.

The master cylinder would be of great value to someone wanting to setup a lhrb.

I will probably keep it as a spare for my husaberg.

I rode my KTM 200 for 10 years without touching the hyd clutch and had zero issues with it. On my 250 I've had the master cylinder, slave cylinder, and hyd line all fail on different rides. I got so fed up I put a Rekluse in it.

the clutch pull on my 165 is a simple 1 finger affair, Call your finger from index to pinky it does operate with ease and not soggy

I had the experience ones on a KTM sx 125 with hydraulic and it was not lighter (lets say equal but spongy in feeling)
could be lack of maintenance on it (old oil or so)

Robert-Jan

I will never go back to a cable clutch. I don't know how you can ride a 3 hour hare scramble on a small bore without one...