1. 2 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
    WR = 2st Enduro & CR = 2st Cross

All 2st I need help

Discussion in '2 Stroke' started by joedirt, Mar 11, 2012.

  1. joedirt Husqvarna
    AA Class

    Location:
    PA
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    wr250
    I have a 2011 wr250 with a 38 air stryker and fmf gnarly. I've been riding 4 strokes till I got this bike. I'm not adjusting very well to the 2st hit. I've done some searching but seems like there is a lot to read. Without spending hours reading I just need to know what to do to smooth the power out a little.

    Also the clutch drag. It seems like the bike is easy to stall in the corners even with the clutch pulled in.
  2. huskybear Husqvarna
    Pro Class

    Location:
    B.C. Canada
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    2010 wr144 with lectron carb, stuff!
    You might want to try a flywheel weight-adding one to several of the two strokes I have owned helped tame the hit a little. As for the clutch drag make sure the clutch cable is adjusted properly-1/8 to1/4" slack at the cable end of the lever should be good I think. Try changing the trans oil, I have used shell rotella t-6 synthetic 5-40 with good results( it is oil for diesel engines but is jaso ma rated which means it is suitable for use in motorcycles with "wet" clutch systems) Good luck and I am sure others on this forum will help you out also!:thumbsup:
  3. PowerKord Husqvarna
    AA Class

    Location:
    Notheast Ohio
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    2008 WR 250 Sold
    Other Motorcycles:
    2014 Sherco SE-R 250
    +1 for the flywheel weight. I've ridden 2T's with a flywheel weight that felt like an elecric motor. Too boring for me, but everybody's got there own like's.
  4. steadydirt Husqvarna
    AA Class

    Location:
    Ontario
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    2007 2002 wr 250 1994 wxe 250
    Other Motorcycles:
    fj 1100 cb500 cb350 rt 200 xs 650
    Yes, agree a flywheel weight will make your bike much smoother and harder to stall. Also you can turn up the idle screw just a little[this lifts the carb slide slightly] and this will help with the stalling too.
  5. Lincolnlock Husqvarna
    AA Class

    Location:
    Mount Vernon, WA
    As for the clutch drag? I worked on mine this weekend. Loosen the clutch cable up all the way. Lean the bike on the right side. Take the clutch cover off. In the center of the clutch you'll see a nut, and a flat head screw in the middle. Take a sturdy flat head screwdriver and hold the out side of the clutch cover. You'll see a spot to hold it on the outside of the nut. The screw driver will be at a 45 degree angle. Use a 10mm socket and break the nut loose. Take the socket off the nut, and turn the flat head in the center of the nut in until you've taken most of the slack out of the cable. Make sure it takes 4 to 5 clicks of the cable adjuster to get the correct adjustment. When you get it where you would like it, hold the outside of clutch with the screwdriver, and tighten the 10mm jam nut.
  6. motocrossmr Husqvarna
    AA Class

    Location:
    New Jersey
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    '15 TE300
    Other Motorcycles:
    '05 PW80, '12 KX 65
    Flywheel weight for sure. There around $100 and will smooth out the hit. Also try a G2 Egronomics throttle cam system. I little pricey but will help with throttle control. I installed one on my YZ250 for racing last year and I liked the feel. Shell Rotella T is all I use. Do you have the stock pipe still? Maybe try that. I know the Gnarly on my WB165 hits like a ton of bricks!
  7. joedirt Husqvarna
    AA Class

    Location:
    PA
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    wr250
    I ordered a flywheel weight and hopefully I can try it this weekend.
    Thanks for the replies.
  8. huskybear Husqvarna
    Pro Class

    Location:
    B.C. Canada
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    2010 wr144 with lectron carb, stuff!
    No problem, let us know how you like it!:thumbsup: