I will be bringing my 08 TE 450 to my nearest dealer who has no experience with ibeat, to adjust my bike. The issue is- running a bit rich in general Overall the bike runs good(not excellent) always has Ben a sucker to start but when started runs good. When I did my winter maintenance I took a lok at the plug, entire exhaust system, top of piston and all pointed to being too rich. All sooted up. Both my intake and exhaust valves loosened to .006 and .oo8 which tells me their carboned up a bit. Sooo, the dealer IS willing to check TPS and do whatever Ibeat adjustment I want him to do with the FB adjustments? I'm hopping to get some suggestions on here on what to tell him to set it to or, check where it is now and just slightly lean it out. I live 2.5 hrs away and don't want to have to take it back so just slight adjustments. Thanks Jason.
I too have an 08 TE450, I found that it was hard to get the bike tuned with just the single FB adjustment that the 08's have. I was able to get a fairly good comprise after some trial and error. I initially found that when I removed the O2 sensor and installed the Power-Up connector, the bike ran very rich. When I looked at the O2 sensor port plug, the face was covered in a thick layer of carbon. I after riding for about a year, I installed the PCV with the auto-tune and found it provided significant increase in power and overall performance. I would highly recommend installing the PCV on any 08 since there is only 1 adjustment while the PCV allows for approximately 400 point of adjustment. Also with iBeat on an 08 you need to connect & disconnect the O2 sensor each time you want to change to the FB value. This takes considerable time if you do test riding between each adjustments. Email me at info@semcodesigns.com if you would like a quote for the PCV & auto-tune modules.
I'm sure the PVC with auto tune is the way to go but this is my "baby step" that I'm going to try to get buy for a while. I assume the o2 sensor needs to be plugged in so the computer can read it's value, but does the P/U resister plug need to be removed / installed each time too? In order to lean out, do the numbers get bigger or smaller? What increments make a large or small difference, 1, 5? Thanks.
Ok post 3 sounds stupid. Let me rephrase that. Obviously if the o2 sensor needs to be installed / removed every adjustment, the resistor does. I guess what I meant was, do these have to be removed / installed for each adjustment? Can the computer not see what the FB settings are without them? Anyway to prepare for the dealer meet on sat, I Installed the o2 sensor. Since I never had ridden it with the sensor installed with the Arrow pipe, thought I'd try it out. It seemed to run spotty and backfired on deaccel and I felt heat from the pipe that I don't remember feeling before. That tells me now its running too lean. So hopefully if I can lean it out a little with the sensor out and plug in should be right in the middle. Still hoping to see some posts on numbers. I only have a few days left.
Value changes of 1 will make a difference, change of 5 will make a huge difference. I should suggest going +/- 2 from current value to determine which direction you need adjust. The effect of FB behaves differently depending if the O2 sensor or power-up connector is installed. With the power-up connector the higher FB value means richer AFR. The normal adjustment range should be 90-110. Since you can only make FB adjust with O2 installed and "active", you then have to unplug it(leave in header) and install the power-up connector to evaluate your changes. The 09 and newer ECU's fixed this hassle by adding three separate CO values that are enabled with the power-up connector CAUTION: If you enter an extreme FB value like 80 or 120, it's possible that the ECU won't be able to adjust enough to get the stock O2 sensor within in narrow band reading range. If this happens, the O2 sensor feedback will never become "active" which is needed to make further adjusts to the FB value. Husqvarna has a service bulletin describing this problem and the solution is to install a PowerComander to get the AFR back to a workable range to allow FB to be adjusted.
Has your dealer got the ibeat software though? I called a local dyno shop today, no gear for Husky's and the solution offered was a PCV. So I'm booking a dyno run without tweaks, and if the AFR looks good and there's no nasty lean/rich/bog spots and it's a decent curve I'm leaving well alone. And saving £400.00.
Jason- I have an 09 and really only worked with CO settings so I truely have nothing to give you for fb settings. But as Semore explained is that if people posted what works on their bikes it would not necessarily work on your bike. Chances are it really won't. There are many factors that add up to that. Its not the same as a baseline in jetting. This is why Semore told you a limit of adjustment to fear. You may have to go about this in by trial and error unforunately. Every tuning with Ibeat on a 2008 requires the O2 and resister to be installed and taken back off to have an effect. I would see what your settings were in IBeat and then just try -2 or so and see how that goes. It will probably show some better responce down low- but may be on the leaner side at the top of the rpms range- as someone suggested- That's the problem with the 08s and 1 line of adjustment. and Great info from Semore. All that said- have them set your TPS WOT to 100.2- they adjust your hardstop on your throttle body to achieve that. Then go back to the TPS page and click SET to accept the new setting in your ECU. If you tell that to them and they get confused or scared take it somewhere else. This could paritally be part of your problem depending on where it is currently set at. Yes- Moto66 that sounds like a good plan if you don't have any obvious running issues in the real world. and I agree with Semore: 2008 bikes the PCV and Auto tune are much more important than with the 09-10s due to the ability to adjust the CO settings: almost like pilot needle and main. I am Very happy with just Ibeat with my 2009.
Thanks, and am getting more interested by the day in the EFI now So... if my local dyno shop has no ibeat software then unless I buy the PCV they can only read AFR via the sensor in the end can? Is that right? And, even if I buy the ibeat, I won't know what my AFR is when running, nor will I know the power curve. So if OP's dealer has no ibeat installed on his test rig, then he'll be in the same position as me?? Err, I loved carbs lol.
Thats what i was looking for. I was only planning on reducing by 1 to 2. Nothing major here, just a slight tweak. Will the Ibeat show the same # if the 02 sensor is plugged in as with the P/U plug in? So if I wanted to reduce by 1 value I do it with the 02 sensor in, and installing the P/U plug is just to gauge the seat of pants difference? Thanks for the reply's.
By the way, Jason I saw your post oN TT- right now: they are giving you info for the 09-10 not the 08. big difference. right moto66, and I assume you have a 2008 from your statements, If they don't have Ibeat- they can't help you tune it only tell you if its not right or not perfect based on the dyno- I am betting everything they will tell you it could be "tweaked" somewhere in terms of Max HP- which does not always translate to the real world and how well it runs in terms of off road and small throttle opening changes and trying to loft the wheel at 5 miles per hour and whatnot. So- first I'd figure out if YOU think it runs good in your conditions meeting your expectations. If not then with an 08 its time to see if someone can perfect the FB setting or get a PCV. IBEAT does not tell anyone AF ratios ever or give HP or what a dyno does.. It gives some information and diagnostics and allows you to tune by experience/and or trial and error- less you buy a separate AF meter. It sounds like Jason is taking it to a dealer with Ibeat- who probably doesn't have a Dyno- they will adjust by trial and error and experience may guide them as well as Jason's description of things.. Ibeat tuning with the 09-10s is like jetting without getting your hands dirty and can make changes within a minute or less. easy. I wish it were that easy and usable for the 08s. I am sure if I had an 08- I'd have bought a PCV or upgraded to a 09 ECU- haven't heard anyone talk about that lately but it was up for discussion a few years ago. Pretty sure its not a big deal but might as well just get that PVC at that point for the money.
Brilliant, thanks, I really rate your input. I've got the 09 so it's the ECU with more adjustability. Also the PU work is done, including removing the exhaust restrictions. As you say, unless you're racing or want absolute perfection, I'll be happy with a decent power curve and knowing that she's not running too rich/lean anywhere. Just a bit bummed that my dyno shop has no ibeat software as the whole dyno run and EFI tweaks could be done in one hit. I guess I wanted to let Jason know the dealer will need ibeat, incase he was assuming that they would after making the trip. As mine doesn't So this then makes me wonder if the dyno shop can get the ibeat software from my Husky dealer easily and up front of me getting there for a run? I mean, even if the software costs 'x' it's going to be a lot cheaper than a PCV if I don't need one. I love the Huskys but they make you work for the reward eh?
Thanks and that's a good point. My dealer does have the ibeat, just no one there currently that knows how to use it. I probably will end up getting ibeat if it will work for the '11 and '12 bikes because that's probably what my next on will be, when the time is right. From what I know the CO (and maybe FB too) adjustability is for the 09 10 and FB only is for the 08? Maybe im wrong? Either way it seems agreed reducing by 1 or 2 should slightly lean it out. My upper RPM range runs great so I will leave that alone. I will have to decide to reduce FB 1 or both FB 1&2, and by either 1 or 2 numbers.
Right. with the 08s you can adjust FB1 only: which affects the whole rpm range. Think of the Map like a dyno graph: if you adjust FB1 you either drop or raise that whole line with fuel- you cant bend or change the line. {So as an example if your bike were: very rich on the bottom and very lean at WOT- you would not be able to fix that problem on a 2008 with Ibeat. }
Huh, that kinda stinks. So much for my FB1 and FB2 idea..... I guess thats even more reason to go more subtle of an adjustment. At least I will be able to see my TPS settings for the first time. I don't seem to have too much issue with stumbling off idle, I probably should leave my TPS alone regardless of what the reading is?
Yep, that's why a PVC-AT is more significant with the 2008. But you might get lucky with with a 2008 by small fb1 changes and TPS settings with trial and error- also depends on your expectations. With the TBS- If I were doing it. I would write down your current settings: X Ohms for current TPS reading, X Ohms for current setting in ECU, WOT %. Then I would adjust your WOT to 100.2%. Then I'd have you ride the bike. Depending on performance- I'd then leave it or make small FB1 changes. Then have you ride the bike, repeat and rince. At some point- it may be determined that Perfect cannot be found for all throttle openings by making that single adjustment and you will have to accept it that way- or go to a PCV. SO you can see trying to get it right on the first try is guess work- and most likely will requre some further adjustment- hard to do from 2.5 hrs form your dealer. As a reminder for others- 09/10 is a completely different situation.
Well, finally got to ride for the first time this year today Nice to be back out there! I have noticed though that she was popping a lot off the throttle and there were some definite rev ranges that she was not comfortable at. So my thoughts are that she is running too lean. I did all the PU stuff and I removed the cats and the internals of the cans. I removed the back flash screen and fitted a K&N. So there's a ton more air flowing through there now and it's unhindered. I'm going to call my dealer Monday am and see IF there's someone with a dyno and ibeat localish. If not then it might be a PCV and get it tuned at dyno shop. Funny thing is I thought it would be offensively loud but it's just a more punchy bassy sound, and it sounds good Jason, did you get your tuning done?
Moto66 yours sounds a little lean. Yes got mine fiddled with this morning. I guess the FB adj is supposed to get the "active ??" to as close to 100 % as possible. Thats the active number not the FB adj number. So, When we hooked the bike up after warmed up, the FB1 number read 108.5 while the "active ??" number read well below 100%. The FB 2&3 read 100, but i guess that will not affect the 08? We changed the FB1 quite a bit below 100 and quite a bit over 100 just to hear the affect of the bike(RPM). Turn out its quite hard to get the "active ??" % to 100% like your supposed to. As the bikes warms up further(to overheating in my case) or cools down, that % changes quite a bit where you would want to change the FB 1 to compensate for that. But you cant because the FB1 number should only be changed at normal operating temp to mimic normal riding conditions. So, long story medium, fiddled with it, set the FB1 from 108.5 to 94; we used 94 because at that engine temp it was the closest we could get the "active ??" % to 100. Plugged in the resistor, tested. Now I could only test on city roads so my real test is yet to come. The test went well. At this FB1 number(much leaner) it did not backfire or hesitate. Unlike before, it seemed to start easier and I tried to mimic singletrack as best I could, in 1st gear, clutch out dragging rear brake until the RPM's were so low the motor stared to chug / lurch. Released the brake blipped the throttle and it came to life with out flaming out. Tried this several time to make sure it was not a fluke. It used to die very easily. This morning I had a difficult time killing it. Went back to the shop, rechecked the "Active ??" % # just to see where it was still at. I, nor did the guy helping me feel too comfortable with reducing it(FB1) to as low as 94 from the original 108 for fear of being too lean. Basically from that he raised FB1 to 97, because at that # the "active ??" % was pretty close to 100% and especially because we knew the bike was probably as close to normal operating temp as we'd get. I felt comfortable at FB1 97 as long as the second test didn't have any adverse affects. It didn't. Conclusion, without the real at home single track test, seems Ive maybe knocked out up to 3 birds with one stone. 1- fixed the overall running too lean problem that made it "load up" like a 2 smoker. 2- make starting easier. 3- reduce stalling. Never did see or adjust the TPS setting. Never really planned to though. Thanks for the quick lesson on Ibeat guys. I REALLY appreciate it! Even if this doesn't translate to real world problem solving for me, I learned a lot and will know exactly what i will want do next time.
Jason, that's cool. Good feedback mate. Sounds like you and the dealer got some benefit from it. And your bike's running better too. Just goes to show what a few subtle changes can make. This is my first EFI (black art) bike so I'm picking up info as I go and am real interested in any posts like yours. So have you got the ibeat yourself now/going to get? It's looking - for some odd reason - that ibeat is not favoured here and the PC route is the way to go. Just thinking also.. you said your bike got to the point of overheating as a static tune. Which again pulls me to the dyno with fan, near to real world as you'll get. I'll do a few calls Monday to see but likely the wallet's taking another final pounding... man..
BTY, before i loaded it up on the trailer, i did check the plug which normally is all sooted up and it was a nice brownish color, no white and no black. A big thanks to the dealer, who didnt have much experience with ibeat, but was really helpful and allowed me to do this with him with my input- and at a really great price!
