As many of you know i recently purchased a 2010 TXC250 with EFI. My first EFI bike and need to learn. I ordered up a Semco cable and got iBeat V 2.0 Very slick setup and EZ to use. I thought I would mention many people balk at the idea of buying $300 worth of stuff to "rejet" a bike. We had a nice long discussion amongst some riders the other day and decided this was not a bad thing. First off most people buy a JD kit for about $100 and spend some time fiddling. Then must change the jetting for different temps and altitude. Some people buy "Power now" carb wings, adjustable fuel screws, adjustable AP's, $200 anti-bog carb bowls, the list is endless. Many people have more than $300 invested in their carbs. With the semco / iBeat setup you can plug it in, adjust some stuff, run diagnostics and tune for pipes etc. all this happens in about 2 minutes and no pulling anything apart on the bike. It is truly the next big thing IMHO. In the next few weeks I'll do some screen shots and provide some info so people who are on the fence might feel better about all this. BTW, these bikes have temp / altitude sensors that adjust to varying conditions and apply base maps. What you do in iBeat just changes the current base map your bike is using to a plus of minus percentage of what you set. the base map is always changing and your + / - is being added on top. Going to a MX race, upload the race map, pop out the SA or pop on the race muffler and have at it. Going trail riding or have an enduro with a firm DB limit? Load the trail settings, and pop on the super quiet muffler. Good stuff.
So here it is iBeat 2.0 on Vista via USB. Install iBeat - EZ loads right up Install drivers for USB / serial convert - EZ Take the cap off the plug under the plate plug the cord in Start iBeat Might need to tell it com port 5. Bike needs to be warm. Here is the main screen... Good info. Another info page... CO adjustment or "jetting" low/mid/high Call me a geek but this is cool. So I used the iBeat once before when the dealer adjusted the EFI as per my wishes. I went to rich. To counteract this I took the SA out for a couple rides. this made the jetting slightly lean on the bottom but good power. A lean stumble was there but not really much of an issue. I was at 110/115/115 which means 10% richer at low, 15 at mid and 15 top end. Tonight i put the SA back in, which before made it a little blubbery on the bottom and went with what you see on image above. While the bike is running I ran the 1 or low down and the bike started to idle better and sound crisper!!! how cool, click a button on the mouse and hear a change in the motor. Goofed around a little and grabbed above screen shots and then had to tend to the herd (kids). Will play with it more but a rip around the hood with the SA in and above settings and the bike runs perfect as far as i can tell. Idles much better, lots of snap, no bog or hesitation anywhere as far as I can tell. EFI, I ain't scared.
BTW, free hour meter too!!! one of the setting shows the VIN, Eprom info, bunch of other stuff and an hour meter. Cool.
Definitely a cool tool. On the bikes I worked with the hours shown in the ecu was the number of hours the bike was 'powered up' i.e. 2.2k ohm resister installed instead of the O2 sensor in the pipe. But I don't know if the TXC250 comes with the O2 sensor at all..........
there is a lamba sensor stock. you remove it to power up and never need to reinstall even to change iBeat.
I believe that is a change, I have the 2.0 ibeat and to change at least some settings the O2 had to be installed and connected. Did you talk to others like Jeff? Is this a 2010 ecu change?
You still use the O2 sensor to get to the FB1,2,3 settings as in the past. What I am not sure of though is if these FB1 settings will effect the bike when in the race map side of things.
I too just bought a ibeat 2.0 from SEMCO DESIGNS. Nice guy. Answered all my questions. Its nice to be able to set your tps and your co adjustments. It does not run as hot as it used too. It revs a lot easier. It starts a lot better too.
Here is a fuel injection tuning tip from my experience with Ducati's and others. The most common problem, especially on bikes the have gotten wet and muddy is the air pressure sensor. It is a good idea to know what the actual pressure is where you are when you are tuning your bike and compare it to the Ibeat. I have not seen a problem yet on a Husqvarna, but they have not been inject for very long. High mileage Ducati's often need the bugs cleaned out of the sensor, or a new sensor. I suspect we will see this quite a bit given the enviroment a Husky is used in. I would not buy a carbureted bike ever again unless it was classic/vintage. I really can not wait until we get our new Dynojet 250 so I can really see what the bike is doing under load with a full fuel air graph.
Hi motosportsz, here is the attach pic of what i have from my Ibeat. and i have also set my CO setting to 105/110/110. Do you think i am doing the right thing and setting the TPS to about 977 below are the setting by my dealer here in singapore. which i think they do not have the Ibeat v2.
A TPS setting of 977mv is in the expected range. What is important is that the ECU "Adjustment Value" equals the "TPS Value Now". This will calibrate the ECU to the exact position of the throttle butterfly.
I tested installing iBeat 2 on Windows 7 at the local computer store this evening. Everything installed ok and started correctly. I wasn't able to connect it to a bike, but I didn't see any reason to think there should be any issue.
Thanks for jumping on that so fast. Sounds great. So, I've go the lap top, now I need to get the iBeat V2 and PCV / auto tune. I just need to find a piece of green paper with Grover Cleveland's face on it.
