• Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Idle screw on 09 Te510?

waserman

waserman

Husqvarna
AA Class
:excuseme:I thought all the adjustments had to be made via I-beat through the processor.I was under the impression that on a fuel injected bike that any adjustment that is made to the throttle body settings,for example adjusting an external screw on the throttle body,would change the settings for the bike throughout the entire range of motion,or throw off the TPs setting.The reason I ask is that my idle could stand to go up a little and it might help hot starting after a stall.I also have about 440 miles on the bike and haven't touched any of those adjustments and have the power up kit on an 09 TE510.I have had to change relays and the temperature sensor,because of no starting when the bike was hot as in up to operating temperature.I recently checked/adjusted my valves and put them in the middle of the tolerance specs,they were out of tolerance on the loose side,odd I thought I expected tight.
Thanks John
 
I had the same low Idle around 400 miles on my 2009 TE450. I screwed the idle air screw on the right side of the carb in till the idle stays around 1750-1800 and it runs much better. I havent had the TPS looked at since adjusting it but it runs better everyday as it breaks in
 
that air bypass scew opens an air circuit in the throttle body- it is a fine adjustment- in corespndance with the "high idle knob" on the left hand side of the throttle boddy. Basically- more air is senced and fueling is acomodated- rpms go up. SO it is a controlled air leak that you can use to adjust the idle rpms. Adjusting this does not effect TPS readings- but TPS settings will effect the ideal adjustment of the air bypass screw. IN is more air Out is Less- in higher rpms, out is lower rpms.

Remember on carbs when the fuel screw did nothing- than you have to get a different pilot jet? Same thing applies here cept' you'd hook it up to Ibeat. But usually everything is set correct from the factory or close enough for most not to find an issue.

The throttle hardstop is another thing to concider and would effect the TPS setting. Read BBCMat's DIY EFY mod for more info about the effects of changing that adjustment. Its a good read in understaning efi- all his posts are.

My bike is in power up mode- TPS is set for 100.2 at WOT (by adjusting hardstop and resetting tps with Ibeat)- Don't know exactly what my Bypass screw is set at currently but it is probably somewhere about 2-2.5 turns out. My bike idles right around 2000 rpms.

If your bike idles too slow- you will feel alot of more engine braking and if your rpms drop from resistance of the trail and you don't have the clutch in the rpms could more easily get closer to where the automatic decompression kicks in and then your HP drops excessively and stalls will be more common. I think the manual says you should be at about 2.5 turns out and 1650 rpms- BUT I have not heard alot of people running their rpms that low without complaints. MOST seem to be happy running anywhere from 1800-2150 rpms.
 
dave4309;114173 said:
try not giving any throttle when trying to restart works like a dream my new favorite discovery ha ha
Click to expand...

Yea Never touch the throttle when starting an EFI bike- on carbed bikes you might be used to it cause the bike got hot or you flooded it from dumping the bowl in to the intake. It would just mess with the whole set up- the bike should be dialed in perfectly for starting at ZERO tps readings. I guarentee I can kick or e-start my bike at zero throttle cold or hot intantly- BUT if I open the throttle to WIDE OPEN and try to start it- I guarentee I will never start my bike. TPS on a carb is not like TPS on efi. Plays a much larger and substantial role.:thumbsup:
 
Thanks for the education on the FI system and what it will do.The information on this site is better than what's in the shop manual,and usually puts you where you need to be in order to take care of problems.I'm soooo glad that this site is available and that there are so many knowlegable people willing to share their experience,with these bikes.I can say that it would be very easy to become discouraged,and want to never have anything to do with these bikes if not for the people who help with the all too common issues,that seem to be plauging these fuel injected bikes.They are a great machine,and have been for a long time.That's why I came back to the brand and I'm not dissappointed that I did. Thank you all for your help:cheers:
 
Thank You for a more detailed explanation. Mine says on the spec tag that the idle is 1700-1800 rpms. It seems to run best when I keep the idle hovering around 1800, less surging.
 
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