Installation Of Hammerhead Shift Lever Tip (630sm)

Discussion in '610/630' started by organ donor, Jan 29, 2012.

  1. organ donor Husqvarna
    Pro Class

    Location:
    Berlin

    To start off with, the OE part is trash (see pic.). It is mounted too near to the cover, had gouged the cover and was difficult to use with boots on.

    The Hammerhead (Part# 25-03-00 +420mm) is a perfect replacement. It lengthens the gear shift lever, provides more space between the lever and the cover and is much easier to reach with boots on.

    But the fit is not as simple as it looks. The easiest method would be to remove the gear shift lever but I gave up when I saw how far the lever clamp is hidden within the frame.
    The pivot pin for the OE tip is 1mm slimmer than the Hammerhead pivot pin. The OE pivot pin is crimped and had to be drilled out and the hole drilled to 8mm. The Hammerhed spring does not fit into the fork on the OE gear lever and I used the original spring. Of course I lost the circlip holding the Hammerhead pin in place ... but Hammerhed must have known I would and there ws a second circlip in the pack.

    The replacement took longer than expected, but was well worth the expense and the effort.

    Attached Files:

    Goldenh likes this.
  2. SilverBullet Husqvarna
    AA Class

    Location:
    Harmaston, TX
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    2011 TE630
    Other Motorcycles:
    KTM 300EXC, V-Strom650, Super Tenere
    organ donor, does your Hammerhead tip have any inward swivel (movement) towards the case?

    _
  3. organ donor Husqvarna
    Pro Class

    Location:
    Berlin
    No. Unlike the OE tip (made of pressed metal) it´s totally stable (precision made and machined out of a billet).
  4. BiG DoM Husqvarna
    AA Class

    ST10R-1.jpg The Hammerhead (Part# 25-03-00 +420mm) - I have a feeling this should end +20mm NOT 420mm. ie it is 20mm longer. Also if you want a a rubber cover on the tip the part number has a R at the end to the best of my memory. These are also very nicely made and come with a spare rubber and are very tough (and do not abrade shoes and boots) - have fitted them to my 610 and HP2.

    All the detail here:

    http://www.hdmoto.com/SearchResults.asp?Cat=5
  5. organ donor Husqvarna
    Pro Class

    Location:
    Berlin
    Agree, the rubber cover looks even better.
  6. Fast1 Husqvarna
    AA Class

    Location:
    Minneapolis, MN
    Are you able to determine how much the tip can be adjusted up using appropriately positioned washers over the stock tip location (2mm, 3mm, 4mm or?)?

    My problem is moving the tip up more then gaining 20 mm of length.
  7. BiG DoM Husqvarna
    AA Class

    I would say if you put the washers at the top you would get 3-4mm. Is there not adjustment at the spline?
  8. Fast1 Husqvarna
    AA Class

    Location:
    Minneapolis, MN
    Yes but there is a limitation on the range of placement before the shift lever comes into contact with the chain on the upper stroke of a shift. I've allready moved it up one spline rotation from factory setting.

    I like to ride with my foot under the shift lever and with Sidi crossfires I need a bit more room than can be accomodated by just one spline rotation. I've thought about notching the shift lever like I did on my 510 to clear the chain but when moving 630 shift lever up another spline rotation the lever ends up being a bit too high.
  9. BiG DoM Husqvarna
    AA Class

    I believe there is also a peg relocation mod a member does that may help?
  10. organ donor Husqvarna
    Pro Class

    Location:
    Berlin
    I´m satisfied with the position it´s now at and would be interested to find out how you got the shifter lever off (and back on again) .... (630SM)
  11. Fast1 Husqvarna
    AA Class

    Location:
    Minneapolis, MN
    I found it much easier to remove by first removing the foot peg. Then you can fit an end wrench (box end) on the bolt and loosen it. It was also helpful to move the shift lever either up or down in normal shifting movement to easily reach the bolt with a wrench.

    I found that moving the shift lever up one spline was helpful for me but moving up two splines put the lever too high, thus my reason for a different tip that could be shimmed up with washers.

    Removal of the shift lever would make it easier to install the Hammerhead tip however.
    organ donor likes this.
  12. organ donor Husqvarna
    Pro Class

    Location:
    Berlin
    That´s helpful. I´ll take a look at the footpeg to see if I could then get at the shift lever flange bolt. Changing gears with the Hammerhead is soooo much easier.
  13. Fast1 Husqvarna
    AA Class

    Location:
    Minneapolis, MN
    just for clarification, I removed the footpeg and footpeg mount for ease of access to shirt lever bolt by removing the two bolts that hold the footpeg mount to the frame.
  14. BiG DoM Husqvarna
    AA Class

    I would agree that it would be easier to fit the tip if one can remove the lever ... that old tip is easy to grind the rivet off but the steel is seriously hard to drill out to the 8mm!
  15. Wrryder Husqvarna
    AA Class

    I am not finding this part number (Part# 25-03-00 +420mm) on the Hammerhead website. Did you just order the standard +20mm and install as describe or is there a special one for the Husky? I see the +20mm listed as Product Code: ST20R Is this the correct one for a TE630?


    KLOC likes this.
  16. Josebdx2002 Husqvarna
    AA Class

    Location:
    Barcelona (Spain)
  17. 1lunger Husqvarna
    AA Class

    Location:
    Bloomfield CT
    If the 630 shifter is the same as the 610 then the +20 knurled tip is a fit. You will need 2 small washers, one on top and one on bottom to take up slack. You also need the OEM spring!! The HH spring is too big.
  18. Wrryder Husqvarna
    AA Class

    Ok, I ordered a +20 today. I will report back on my results once I receive and install it.
  19. 1lunger Husqvarna
    AA Class

    Location:
    Bloomfield CT
    This is how it will look [IMG]
  20. pinocono Husqvarna
    AA Class

    I put both washers on top in order to raise the peg as much as possible. I know it's only about 1/16", but every little bit helps. Other than that, it's like others have said, use the stock spring, and you will need to drill out the shifter for the Hammerhead pin.