FE/FC Interesting mods and bits for the new Husky

Well I've just bought the new 14' FE350 and will be picking it up in a couple days so of course I startex researching what parts from KTM fit the bike and other mods that are possible.
One thing I learned was some people have taken large gas tank from a KTM and can run it on these bikes but I was told you then need to run KTM shrouds not sure of the details on years.
You can swap the front light for a number plate by either buying the motocross front fender and number plate ($$$) or you can buy like a 2010 husaberg fx450 type number plate trim 3/8-1/2 off the bottom of the holes on the back of the plate so it will slide down on the fender pins and buy the low profile KTM fender brace that will bolt up to the old brace location.
I know ridepg and decal works are doing graphics even though they don't show on the web sites.

Just thought this could be a good place to share some info. Please share!

Nice to know about the graphics. I've had my FC450 for about 6 weeks now. I ordered number backgrounds from HG stickers in Sweden. Not all that happy with them. The stock colors on the side panels show thru the HG's. Haven't done any mods other than removing the double cones from the muffler. MXA is full of it when they said to pull them out with pliers. Had to take apart the muffler and grind off some tack welds holding them in. Seems to let the bike rev a bit quicker. My old stock '07 450sxf muffler bolted right up but I like the Husky muffler better, more bottom end with it. Fixing to install a JD fuel injection tuner this weekend. Hope to move the power around a bit, get more bottom to mid.

Slightly different... I'm converting my '12 Husaberg TE250 over to a white Husky. I'm going to run a white '14 Husaberg/Husky front fender, with the original '12 Husaberg fender brace and '14 Husky MX number plate. Like Nick Fahringer's bike here....

PG is doing OEM style '14 Husky Graphics and my race numbers for the '12 Husaberg plastics. I got white Husaberg shrouds and white KTM rear fender and air box. It should look sweet!

I was told The "Australian" race map and "European" race map are pretty much identical other than the European map is looking for an o2 sensor and if loaded in USA bikes will make them run poorly...

Does anyone know if a JD tuner is available for a FE350 yet?

call jd no? they will know better than us intertube cowboys...

After getting a few hours on the fe350 I have found out a few things.

#1 Dunlop mx51's and I don't like each other! The front is very sketchy and tends to be in a constant state of slide. The rear does OK on grass flat track but wouldn't hook on much else but it was at least predictable.

#2 a Scotts sub mount isn't for me. On the Italian bike it was great, I'm 5'10" and can't stand the position 3 or 4 you have to run with the under mount on this new bike. To top it off it adds an inch of height making the hole feeling even worse. I'll be playing with position 1 and 2 then go top mount I think.

#3 this bike begs you to be on top of the bars, I found it handles better and just works to have a little down pressure on your bars, not much but some, this also helps me stay in a proper standing attack position.

Just some things I'm learning as I go..

yes they are

Converting head light to number plate. I picked up a front number plate, cable guide, and fender brace all KTM part numbered as well as a long number plate mounting bolt and a nylon spacer to hold the plate out away from the speedo. I believe the bolt was an m6-100 thread with 8mm head about 1 1/2-2" long can't remember exactly and a bushing big enough for the bolt to go through which I thought was a 5/16 I.d. which I picked up at a local hardware store. You'll also need a small 6mm head bolt to hold the cable guide on with.
On this plate you cut off the female pegs flush to the bottom of the plate where it meets the fender, this allows the plate to sit down far enough that the top hole will line up to the bolt hole under your gauge. Total cost about $50.

Here are some pics....

Fitted my JD tuner and Sicass map plugs today. Won't be able to ride it till next weekend but certainly sounds much more crisper when free revving.

oh and if you plan on removing your rear shock more than once, get a FMF mega bomb header. The 3 piece makes it so much easier to get the shock out

A little feedback on the ignition map switch! The directions have a couple applications in one pamphlet so it took me a minute due to me being slow , lol, to realize what set of instructions I needed. It went on easily and it does make a change in both directions to the bike.
The #1 on the handlebar switch is always "stock" under the seat is a dial with 0-9 but #1 is "soft" and #2 is "aggressive" and all the rest 0 & 3-9 are "stock" so on the handlebar switch #2 is whatever you set the dial to under your seat.
So the aggressive map makes the bike much more snappy with better throttle response and the soft map felt a little less snappy in the first 1/4 throttle but just as snappy as stock after that and it did feel a little smoother over the entire range. I didn't have mud to test it in but it did seem to work well in real dry slick as far as not breaking loose as much.
Overall its pretty cool and does change enough to notice a difference!
P.S. after about 5-6hrs on the bike the power is really starting to wake up over the entire range... a bunch.

We sell the rear shark fin for that bike, same one used on both Husky and KTM factory teams. Strongest fin I have seen.

Ordered up some new parts for the FE501 today. 7602 Radiator guards and their brake pedal too. I need to move the pedal forward a bit with my size 14's. Chums hooked me up with a BRP sub mount so that should help with the ergos too. Changed the oil tonight after the first hour of run time. Found some weird debris in the pre filter, looks like steel wood or metal wadding. Small amount maybe a gram or less but made me scratch my head a bit. Had the usual metal flakes in the oil pan bottom but nothing out of the ordinary. Easy bike to work on so far.

You will want to use Mobil1 0W40 in your 501 and switch to a SS filter asap. Also, don't forget XF coolant.

Really. So the same 0W40 I used (Euro) stuff from my 310 is good for the big 501? OK, sure beats the $18 a liter price for the Motorex I just dumped in last night. Like I said, I found some metal wadding on the big strainer. Looked like a steel wool pad, well a very small piece of one. I want to drop the oil again after a couple of more hours until it comes out with less debris. Much more pleasant to change the oil on this bike compared to the 310 for sure. Thanks for the tip. I trust ZipTy sells the stainless filter? PC racing or?

If we don't have it in stock, we can order it for you. We have those in our 501s. The new KTM engines develop high oil pressure and collapse the paper oil filters, resulting in engine damage. I know that KTM burned up one of their bikes locally and a race shop near us collapsed 4 papers and even a stainless filter when they insisted on running S-brand oil. You must run thinner oil and free flowing SS filters to avoid this.

Makes sense because my paper filter didn't look good when I removed it. It looked compressed and or deformed. Not terribly but enough to notice. The 0W40 works for me. Easy to find and not over priced either. So I recon any oil filter for a 500EXC will fit this bike right? Might be my best chance of finding the PS racing part number. Looks like a PC-155. XF is going in this one too because it needs it. Bike runs HOT! Feels like an oven between my legs. Did I mention it runs hot? I have about half of a jug sitting on the shelf, hope it's enough but I'll reorder another for top offs. No over flow bottle on these from what I can tell either, another good reason to run XF.

I am sure the coolant will help. You need your ecu remapped. It is hot mainly because it is lean. Have the same issue on my 350. Right side gets hot really fast in the tight stuff to where I cannot grip the bike with my right leg

Ya I just talked with Hall's and they agree on a reflash. It makes plenty of power now but it's lean for sure and that equals heat! So how hard is a reflash? Any suggestions for map switch etc? Wild/mild or?