Hi, Ive just brought my first Husky. I have a 2001 Husky 610 te with sm wheels. I just picked it up today and first impressions were great, thunderous roar put smile on my face compared to my old wheezy hornet 600. Apart from the tempermental start it seems to tickover and rev fine. although when i drive it in low revs and low gears it lurches forward and kinda seems like the engine chokes. i got it to 110 on the motorway (dunno how accurate speedo is haha) and at higher revs and high gears it doesnt do it. when i got home i gave it a proper look over and realised the chain was so tight there was no slack even without suspension compressed. Ive loosen up the chain so will see how it rides tomorow. Another qustion is what size rear wheel should you use for sm? as atm this tyre is slightly touching the chain. The engine is very tappety, is this normal. and what oil do people run. the guy who sold me it recomended 10/50w fully synthetic. Sorry about all the questions but i honestly just want to get out and ride this beast.
It's not uncommon for the engine to sound a clicky, particularly at idle. The surging that you feel is probably some adjustment needed in the carb (What carb does it have?) It might also be helpful to put new iridium spark plug in, that usually help null out some of the flat spots. 17" rims are the most common for SM bikes. Oil questions will generally net you a multitude of opinions but I always recommend a good 4T motorcycle oil and the widest viscosity range that you can find like 10-60 is best. Welcome to the forum.
Got this from a friend says it is great for socal. Use at your own risk, just sharing. Needle p/n 5BE-14916-DP-00 (Yamaha) (needle marking:OBVDP) Leak Jet (60) p/n 4JT-1494F-11-00 (Yamaha) Pilot Jet Keihin (48) or (45 but gives minor decel popping ) Main Jet Keihin (175) Slavens fuel screw p/n ST70-01H Fuel screw is between 1 3/4 to 2 1/4 turns out, adjust only after motor is HOT. To do this: get the motor HOT then lower the idle to around 1200 to 1300 rpm (just above auto decomp engagement) adjust the fuel screw up and down till the idle begins to stumble in either direction. Set the fuel screw adjustment 1/2 way between these points. I generally start @ 2 turns for a baseline. The final thing is to adjust the A/P squirt duration, what worked out well for me was a 1/4 turn counter clockwise with the needle set @ the 4th position from the top. After that everything smoothed out and the overall power was very linear until you hit about 5500rpm, then the bike ripped!
Back tire size on the 610sm comes at 150/60-17 although on some brands you’ll be able to put a 160/60-17 (Avon Distenzia for example) Right now my bike has 20/50 4Tsynt in it
Thanks for the great replys guys, i just finished putting it all back together and just gave it a once over really its a 2001 model, 15,000 miles on it, average condition, defo needs a good clean and replace all bolts to shiny new ones haha. the engine covers have been repainted at one point and one side is a crap job but other than that it could be tidyed up. ok now to mechanical. As i said the chain was stupidly tight (why i couldnt find netural etc) so as i went to slacken it of i noticed the tyre was a 160, and to stop chain/tyre rub, they had the tyre pointed diagonaly no joke was like this I/I (the i's represent swingarm ) so now thats slack and lined up the tyre does rub the chain not by much but the tyre is also squared off so it needs replacing, went for ride out and its getting easier to start but still has a very jolty point in lower gears, not as bad as before though. Im gonna give it a service at weekend, oil, all filters, spark plug, brake pads and fluid. Is there anything else i could check or replace? what do you recomend. and now the question of oil. Im in the uk and use the bike everyday, all weathers. what oil would you recomend? many thanks guys great forum oh and yeh, I love my Husky already, so glad i went for my gut feeling and moved away from street nakeds
