Is It Ok To Ride With A Bad Stator And Battery(te250)?

hello everyone

i rode for the last two months without a battery on my 13 te250..(dont judge me,i thought that all dirt bikes can run without a battery )
at start the the bike ran perfect but after a while some backfiring and cutting has began to occur
eventually it got to a point that i couldnt rev pass mid rpm.

after checking the entire electrical and fuel system i hooked an old battery,disconnected the lights and bam! it ran like nothing has happend..

i guess the problem is related to the stator..(i did ran a test with a multimeter,it didnt pass.
but im not sure if the multimeter read is correct..)

so,is it ok to ride in this condition?bad battery and possibly a bad stator(we have a 2 week holiday!!)

and one more thing,is there a possibility that something else is causing this issue?

Replace the battery.

Paw Paw

Either way I'll end up with a flat battery without a good charging stator
So shouldn't I stick with the old one until I'll get the new stator?
Can a battery die without any charge?

You have a condenser (capacitor) so it can run without a battery. But get one in there ASAP.

Leave the lights on.

Also, I am judging- seemingly, you're being willfully or purposely ignorant? A cheezy new battery can be had for under $30 delivered on eBay (pre-tariff so hurry). I'm not sure of your motivation here.

Your stator is fine if you have not been externally charging the new-old battery. And if thats true, you're okay to run like that indefinitely. I'm assuming 100% kickstarting here.

Remember that lead acid battery's that are on their last leg will most likely have a bad cell and those cells will short at some time and then you will have real problems. Put a good LI battery in it and do away with the bigger problems that are looming.

Paw Paw

whoops- this one showed up later.

Are you sure your stator is bad? >13.8v when idling means it's good (but a shorted battery can pull this down). A very simple measurement on a digital multimeter (dc volts).

a battery can die (and will die) without a charge.

keep your old battery in until you figure out whats going on. Also- the cheezy battery statement above was for US customers- by using the term "flat" I'm guessing you're somewhere in the British Commonwealth; this may not be true for you.

Possible suspects: bad battery, bad regulator, bad stator, bad wiring, ...more. look for cooked connections (IOW, discolored or melted).

good luck.

first thing,non taken..and yes you are right im not a US citizen.
before i bought the husky i have only ridden motocross machines which didnt require any battery..
i thought that a battery is mainly used for E start..since mine wasnt working and im already used to kickstarting it wasnt a big deal for me.

as i said before i am not sure if the stator is the cause.
i did try to check it,not sure if i did it correctly..the three black wires that goes into to the regulator gave a read of 1volt.

as for the test that you told me,with the bike ideling i got a read of 14.78-80v(on the new one)

Your stator, regulator, and (probably) wiring are fine if you're reading 14.78v. Get a new battery.

I'm sure you realize by now that the fuel pump, ECU, ignition, lights, horn, dash board ect. ALL need electricity. The starter is secondary. Think of the TE as a car with a kickstart.

Doesn't he need a battery in there to absorb the voltage spikes to keep stuff from burning out?

Yeah... but no.

The (working) condenser used on the redheads provides that functionality. But get a good battery regardless.

Just hooked a new battery bike runs fine..so far the battery hold charge of 14.78 while idling.
thank you all for your comments and help

But,there's still something wrong..
every time I'm getting some air even on the smallest jumps and riding a bumpy/rocky fast trail the bike has small cut outs and some hesitating.(not stalling)
Kinda feels like it's not getting good spark or fuel.

Any ideas?

Oh, they have a condenser AND a battery?

Yeah- the condenser is mounted on the bottom of the throttle body. It's D-cell sized and probably about 5000 micro-farads (guessing).

OP- I'm thinking your problem is caused by a wiring short. Look especially close around the coil. Look for loose connections, pinched wires, or melted insulation.