Hi all, Installed a JD tuner a few weeks ago and although it has made a slight improvement to the low end bog and stalling issue it is still a pain in the ass in the tricky stuff, unless i'm slipping the hell out of the clutch to keep the revs high then it will die at the most awkward moment in a race, this is also giving me bad pump in the left arm from having to feather the clutch, I've ordered a MME clutch lever to help with this. What I would like to know from TE250 owners 2010 onwards with a JD Tuner is what settings you have stayed with to cure this low end problem, I know some have cured it with just the tuner and others have upgraded the ECU etc but I can't spend that kind of money at the moment. Mine is uncorked with baffle removed, have played with the JD plenty but can't get the low end spot on, your help would be appreciated, this is really hindering my race performance. Thanks Trevor.
I have the '11 310, so it's not the same, but similar. I just use the stock settings that JD recommends for my bike. Works great. After I put 250 miles on the bike, it worked even better. What is your warmed up idle speed? 1900+ should help avoid stalling.
I sent the settings that I have been using (that I got from another member on here). They have been working well for me on my 10 TXC 250, whereas the stock JD settings did not help much at all.
Not me. I got my '11 TE310 to run pretty well with the JD tuner, but the annoying small throttle sputter didn't go away till I did the TXC ECU/12 port swap.
Thanks for the input, anymore would be gratefully received. The standard settings did liven up the mid and top end but did nothing on the bottom end, I don't expect stonking low end infact i prefer it tame but the stalling is a pain. I try some of the setting suggestions PM'd on Saturday then I race on Sunday and will see how it goes. I hear your points on the new ECU and 12 port swap but this is a costly excercise, I have a deal on standby where I can swap my TE for a 2010 WR300 which I may do if this weekends race shows no improvement, I would really like to keep the TE with the electric start etc, we will see.
Will putting a cut down baffle back in, like a DB killer, increase bottom end power and decrease stalling?
It sure could. Usually creating more backpressure will increase low end performance but at the sacrifice of top end performance. I remember when mine was new with the air box restrictor and the CAT in the mid pipe the low end was super responsive and powerful. While breaking in a new motor the loss of top end was acceptable and I was supper happy with the low end. Since then I've thought about going back to that but with the JD tuner just to see what It would be like compared to now and now that I can hammer on it with a fully broken in engine. Have you done a TPS calibration? This can affect the low end bog if it's off. What counter shaft sprocket are you using and have you considered a 12 tooth? It helps a lot with the low end. Or maybe try adding 1 to 2 teeth to the rear if you didn't was to go quite so drastic. Just a couple thoughts.
Phoenix, I put your settings into the JD Tuner, top end seems improved but I still had the bog when you crack the throttle so I put the red/blue accelerator pump setting all the way down to 1 and the bog is pretty much gone, well thats just on the spot testing will have to wait until tomorrows race to find out for real. Jason, i thought the same as you about back pressure and baffle. Today I cut the very restrictive standard baffle down to about 2 inches so it's more like a DB killer but it the off idle bog was back again and worse than ever, struggled to pull away, tried to tune it out but no joy so I gave up on that. I haven't done theTPS as I have no iBeat, maybe a trip to a dealer is in order if it's no better tomorrow, I am already on 12t front sprocket which did make a big improvement. I appreciate your input guys, thanks for taking the time to post. Trevor
What a difference! I used the settings Phoenix gave me: Green/Blue (idle) 5 Green (low) 5 Yellow (mid) 5 Red (high) 4.5 Yellow/Blue (transition) 3 Red/Blue (accelerator pump) 5.5 But I went down to 1 on the red and blue which stopped the bog off idle. Raced the bike yesterday and its a transformation, where as I would normally have to be in 1st gear feathering the clutch in the tight stuff and then when I crack the throttle it would stall or bog and the bottom end power was non existant, now I'm in 2nd gear and it pulls like a little tractor, not one stall all race!! I was on the verge of selling this bike due to the EFI and I can imagine a lot of folks have done just that, It's sorted now and it rides how it should.
Glad it worked! The settings originally came from ioneater, who saved me from a mental breakdown himself by sharing them! haha. I'm going to try your AP setting this weekend at practice and see if it improves mine as well.
When I first tuned the JD I used Ioneater's settings as well and my boyfriend tried a whole whack of other settings and nothing worked as well as Ioneater's. What bugs me the most is that the dealers first fix for this issue is to get us to spend $$$ on the JD tuner.. (up north here it's $280 total with tax) and the injector ECU upgrade is maybe only $120 more if you install it yourself. So I spent $280 more than I had to if the dealer had just recommended the upgrade straight away I would have been way happier and less frustrated. Even with the JD tuner the bike was horrible on that low end.... and I would have gotten rid of it for some other bike....... and would have eaten up the losses just to get a bike that worked to my satisfaction. I'm way happier withe the bike now, but wish I had that JD tuner money back to spend on other upgrades such as skid plate, rad guards etc etc... "just sayin" Good luck Freaky.
You should be able to sell your JD tuner I'm sure folks would like to pick one up to avoid buying the whole injector/ ECU kit.
