250-500cc Just bought...2013 wr300. Setup??

So I just bought my first husky and new bike. Really excited abt it and I go pick it up tomorrow. I'm new to this site of course, but wanna just get some tips and advice on some basics. Im gonna be riding mostly in SoCial and central california and would like to before I get out there and riding get a good base line for setup with jetting and suspension. I am a prior mechanic before I joined the air force and used to race n an older ktm 250sx. So basically what jetting specs should be a good baseline to start out with and also what should I set the clickers at for my weight. I'm 190lb without riding gear on. Oh and with me living in CA, spark arrestors are a must unless your riding on a motocross track which I don't plan on doing much of. I was looking at the silencer and noticed that it didn't say USFS APPROVED. But I read on here or some site that it actually does have a spark arrestor stock but its just not stamped?? So I'm a little confused. I know this is a long post, but any advice for first ride on it would be greatly appreciated. Thanks ahead of time guys.

Once you get familiar with this forum-and your bike, start doing some searches on WR mods and upgrades. You will find alot of helpful and knowledgeable people on the Cafe. Enjoy your WR!

2013 isn't fuel injected ?

No it's not.

Welcome! I have a 13 WR250, if you have any questions you can PM me on here. Definitely, seal that airboot before you ride and I have had great results with the JD jet kit.

Thanks for the responses. Where am I putting the sealant at? Where the carb hooks to the reed cage or where the reed bolts to the engine? I'll get that JD kit ordered too I've heard good things abt them. Any suggestions on the suspension settings or should I just see where it's at stock?

For your weight keep the clickers on the forks and shock at the stock settings for the first couple of hours, then adjust accordingly for your specific terrain and riding style. The suspension is very stiff for the first couple of rides so it will take a while to fully break it in. Give it time and get used to the stock settings. The stock fork oil is very heavy, so after you've logged a couple hundred miles or so you may consider changing out the oil and using a 5wt oil instead. You'll notice a big difference...for the better. For your weight the fork springs are probably a little on the light side and you'll find that they bottom easily even when the clickers are turned in (to make rebound slower/harder), but you can counter that somewhat by adding some oil to the forks. The shock spring is probably ok, but you may need to go a little heavier/stiffer eventually. Set the top of your forks about 7mm above the top of the top triple clamp. Then set your race sag (shock) at 100 to 105 mm w/standard sag coming in about between 10 to 25 mm hopefully. This will provide you a fairly neutral setup for your weight, then you can adjust the fork height and sag accordingly to favor turning or straight-line stability. Good luck and welcome to the club!

I would get a T handle and go over the bolts and make sure they are all tight. I found a bunch on mine that where loose. If it the same breaking procedure as my 2011 WR300 I didn't mess with my suspension until I was through the 32:1 breaking stage. After that I set my sag height and relaxed mt suspension. I'm 190lb myself and for the rough rock tight riding and racing I do, my clicker are at 7 clicks from the bottom all the way around the bike. Also remember to let the bike warm up before you go ripping on it. The owner of the shop where I bought mine told me he as seen a few new WR's lock up because the weren't allowed to warm up during the break in before they where ripped on. Congrats I the new bike, long story short the best thing you could do for your new bike is ride it.

Ride it for a bit til the suspension settles like Brian Scott said. After that I would take it to a reputable suspension guy or a friend who knows what hes doing and try to set you sag. If you cannot achieve something close for good sag settings then you might want to just go ahead and get the suspension serviced. I cannot say enough for a bike with the suspension set up correctly. It makes the bike totally different.

Nobody can really guarantee clicker settings because it depends too much on how and where you ride. However, I would say that you probably want to start with the compression backed most of the way out, on the forks and the shock. Set the fork rebound near the middle, and set the shock rebound about 10/15 clicks out (total range is about 40). My stuff is revalved to be softer than stock and I still run my compression clickers most of the way out. YMMV.

For your weight, you'll probably want to go to 0.44 or 0.46 fork springs. I am using 0.44s on mine and I weigh 170. The shock spring is ok for my weight but for you you'll probably want to go stiffer.

Turning the rebound clickers in won't help with bottoming resistance; in fact, in some situations, it will make bottoming worse because the forks will pack. If you want to try to help with bottoming, you want to turn the compression adjusters in. Leave the rebound closer to the center of the range on the forks.

Oops. Good catch Kyle. I meant to say that his forks may bottom easily even when the clickers are turned in (to make dampening (i.e., compression and rebound) slower/harder).

Forgot to mention that you should download and print a copy of the workshop manual and the parts manual to reference often and quickly when servicing your wagon. Having those at your finger tips is very helpful and will save you a lot of time trying to get info from the web late at night when your monkeying around w/the forks, top end, linkage, carb, etc. Having a pdf of those documents is great too so you can quickly do a word search for a particular issue.

Ok I'll check on that manual. But I took it out for its maiden voyage yesterday. I absolutely love this thing!! The 1997 ktm 250sx I used to race in NC cross country races and even a few local motocross races was fast, and would outrun my buddies on their 450's in a drag race. It had your normal bolt ons (full exhaust, vforce 3's, geared, etc.). I really didn't expect this wr to be as quick bc the of hp ratings I found online. But let me tell ya, after I ran about a tank through it I went through the gear box a couple hard times and was absolutely blown away at the power this thing has!! And the torque too. It would eat that old ktm I had alive lol. I mean I could lug this thing up nasty technical rocky hill climbs in third and fourth gear all day long. I didn't do much to it the first day. Just went over all nuts bolts and set set the controls to suit me and adjusted the idle. But this thing really is an animal. Totally happy with my purchase and look forward to putting many more hours on it.

I agree mine feels more like a 300 than a 250. It has so much more power compared to the 2000 ktm 250 exc my son rides.

Going tomorrow to pick up my 14 WR 300. Finally sold my katoom so I called the dealership and they made a deal I couldn't pass up. I asked them to leave it crated so after I wear my 13 WR 250 out I have a new bike waiting. These are the best two stroke bikes I have ever owned besides my 2005 RM 250, full PC motor. That thing would get it on.... and turned great too. It's a shame the Italian husky is no more.

I raced a 13' wr300 for a whole season and just picked up a 14' wr300. Go over the entire bike and grease ALL the bearings, swing arm, wheels, steering, and suspension as they do not have much grease factory. Look over break lines and other hoses that have rub points there are a couple, one behind the rear break fluid reservoir. I hate jetting so the first thing I do to all my bikes now is put a Lectron on them and enjoy extra power and way better mileage. I have a fly wheel weight it makes a difference but I try to only use it when its a mud race or lots of big gnarly technical hills in a race. I use a Rekluse 2.0 to each their own on that. I had the suspension done by a professional and it was worth every bit of the $500 it cost me to not have to mess with it. I change the gear oil after the first 1/2hr then the next hour and every two after that. I dumped the thermostat you can use factory parts for like $50 to do the delete but you really have to let it warm up before ripping on it.

I have had a couple guys ride my 300 who ride KTM 300's and both have had a grin from ear to ear after riding my bike saying how it has more power than the KTM and love the handling. They are great bikes

Yea my bill of sale says 2014 but its a red and white Italian husky and the build date on the frame says 3/2013. So idk if it's a 2013 or 2014 haha. I thought the 2014's were the "ktm huskys"?? I went out Zaca station motocross track in central CA last weekend and it was a little nuts out there lol. Not really my scene but just went to go get some more time on the bike. Ended up going out to divide peak in Santa Barbara after that and rode the ridge line for couple of hours. Had a great me out there. The jetting was a little off due to the altitude of where I was at but other than that it was awesome. The torque this thing has has amazes me every time I hit a gnarly hill climb!! Just when it sounds like any other bike might bog out, I twist the throttle and rips up the hill. I am having a little trouble with traction though. I'm sure it has something to do with the stock tires and the fact that I haven't touched the clickers on it at all. I'll tinker with it the next time I head out. Anyone on here ride out here on the central coast?! I'd like to find some people to ride with.

Hey I just got a 14 WR300 (Italian) too! I'm wanting to know answer to same question above. I found a paper gasket between reed cage and cylinder but don't see one between reed cage and carburetor boot. Is this the area to seal with RTV?

What is the 10th digit of the VIN? 2013=letter D 2014=letter E