KYB open chambers and Race Tech Gold Valves

I was wanting to know people's thoughts on Gold Valves in the open chamber KYB forks. Any imput would be helpful.

Had it done several weeks ago and am absolutely stoked on the new action.
Check out my post recently in the 4 Stroke Forum under the title KAYABA SUSPENSION SET UP ON TE449/511.

SAM511

Just for the record these are my latest suspension settings.
I always keep a log of where I am at so I do not lose my way and it makes the "feel" comparison when riding relevant.
SAM511

2011 HUSQVARNA TE511 (03/03/12)

FRONT FORKS
Spring Rate Racetech FRSP4446 - 0.48 kg/mm
Racetech Type 1 Gold Valve Kit
Fork Fluid Motorex Racing Fork Oil 5 wt
Fork Fluid Level 120 mm
Fork Set Height in Triple Clamps 10 mm
LS Compression 11 clicks
Rebound 11 clicks

REAR SHOCK ABSORBER
Spring Rate Racetech SRSP6228 - 5.4 kg/mm
Racetech 4 mm OAL Spacer (to lower the rear ride height by 12mm)
Static Sag with full tanks 38 mm
Rider Sag with full tanks + gear 113-115 mm
HS Compression 1 + 2/3rd turn
LS Compression 12 clicks
Rebound 13 clicks

Don't know what sort of "input" you're looking for - I'm guesing something along the lines of "Is it worth it?" My answer to that is a resounding YES!

Check out my post on when I had it dones for more info: http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/got-my-suspension-revalved-and-tuned-this-weekend.19623/

In my opinion, when you buy a new bike the first thing to do is get the suspension sorted out for you. If you're a fat bastard like me, you need new springs at a minimum. If there is any sign of compression spiking (front or rear) it's worth getting the valving sorted out. I suspect mort of the work is done in the restacking of the shims, but with the cost of an OEM shim kit to do that, you may as well go the whole hog to get the Racetech Gold Valves kit as it has the replacement shims you need as well as the better flowing valves.

This is just my opinion, your milage may vary.

I just returned from a ride up northern NY with my TE-511 on its maiden voyage. The bike came from the dealer with the shocks stock valving 16 clicks to the Hard, front & rear. The rear tire was set at 45psi and the front tire was set at 33psi. I just went down the rocky trail and almost got bucked off. I couldn't figure why it rode so hard. Once I was able to lower the tire pressure just to the manuals recommendations (as a base point) and set the shock valving to "soft" and stiffen up from there, the bike stuck to the ground. So, setting up the suspension is a must. I'll continue to tweek it as I ride until I believe I'm comfortable with the settings.
The engine performed well with no hickups. The little reflector below the rear license plate snapped off in the first 2 miles, no surprise back there.