• Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

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    Thanks for your patience and support!

lets talk about the auto's

Bigbill

Bigbill

Husqvarna
Pro Class
The facts I been told about the autos here is some didn't last. Now a hare scramble rider here raced the autos. He had no problem with it even hammering on it.
The problems started when a novice rider would go fast, then slow, this repeated up shifting and down shifting caused the auto to hammer itself apart. I'm guessing with the faster riders they didn't have the constant up shifting and down shifting. Let's hear some stories about the autos?

I had a 390 auto and I never got to ride it. I was contacted by a man who lost his leg but still wanted to ride. The auto was perfect for him. I didn't want to part with it but I been blessed in life and I'd help anyone out who wants to ride. I sold him my auto with all the extra parts to keep it running.
 
I'm going this Saturday to buy two of them, hopefully. Never owned one but always curious and wanted one. I've always heard if you do regular oil changes and regular maintenance they're no problem. I'll post up pictures.
 
The problem with the auto and a beginner is not the shifting, but that the beginner is never on the gas long enough and the clutches were constantly slipping, where an expert had the clutches locked up most of the time. You have to use the correct oil (expensive) and change it EVERY ride. The parts are somewhere between hard and impossible to get depending on what era auto you are working on.
 
They sound cool when they up shift on you tube.

There should be older husqvarna dealers with alot of parts?
 
not with auto's there isn't, guys on here are making new springs etc.

Heat generated by excess clutch slipping caused the springs to stretch then fail and the shoe faces to burr over and loose friction . broken springs would cause havoc internally.

auto's are the greatest bike ever you will ride... they will immeadiately show you how much time you spend (on a 2/) using engine braking to line up before cracking the go tube again.
The auto demands you power hard then literally lock up and turn then power hard again... only way to ride them and its hard!!
 
My limited experience with auto's is on the AE500.
Change your Univis J26 oil after every ride. (about $28.00 per litre delivered here in OZ)
You need to smooth out the shoes where they can touch the springs and remove sharp edges around the spring connection points.
I've broken one first gear spring.
I've sheared 3 keys (first gear clutch assembly is keyed onto the shaft). I need to lap the taper in a bit better I think.
My NOS first gear shoes are nearly fu%$ed after about 30-40 ( a WAG estimate) hrs use.
The engines get very hot, you run them rich to help this, so at low rpm they run like a hairy goat. When ever you cross a creek you create a steam cloud!
You loose drive (it become less direct - more revs and no go) and engine performance with heat build up.
Throttle application should be either on or off, or as much as you can with a 500 :)
Nil engine braking, NIL. Two stroke manual bikes have heaps of engine braking by comparison.
Make sure your brakes are good and your suspension is good, then hold it on and hang on!
I use the rear brake a lot; sliding into corners etc and the auto is magic for this sort of style. No pesky clutch or worrying about what gear your in; just slide in - throttle out - easy.

 
I am using Penrite MB15 ..which is a Mercedes suspension levelling fluid.. it is a direct replacement for Ohlins shock oil.. and as many know .. Ohlins shock oil is Esso Univis j26.. so Penrite .. about $9 AUD for a 1 litre bottle..
 
yesi should have added once you get the hang of them and figure out the kinks (iron out the bugs??) they are great. I would love one and may succumb to the disease soon!!
 
Joe Morel was one of the Auto enthusiasts that collected a great deal of Auto parts. His shop was in North Attleboro, Massachusetts . He has retired and may still have some parts on hand but be prepared for the cost. He gives nothing away. And good luck finding him
 
Joe Morel told me he used refrigeration compressor oil.Tried some years back and that's all I use now.Never had any issues and the drain magenet comes out fairly clean.Think about how hot refrigeration compressors run and it seemed right to me.
 
auto said:
Joe Morel told me he used refrigeration compressor oil.Tried some years back and that's all I use now.Never had any issues and the drain magenet comes out fairly clean.Think about how hot refrigeration compressors run and it seemed right to me.
Click to expand...
Suniso 3GS? Alkyl Benzenine Or one of the newer polyolester oils?
Generally a compressor sump will not get above 30 deg C. A small amount of oil does Tpt through the system, but an engine would be a tougher environment. I'm not saying it doesn't work or that it isn't good stuff. It's clean, moisture free and miscible with refrigerant.

This is a fantastic forum - great information and great ideas!,
 
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