Linkage bearing removal?

Discussion in 'General (Main)' started by Bench Racer 117, Mar 6, 2011.

  1. Bench Racer 117 Husqvarna
    A Class

    Location:
    Oregon
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    2007 WR250
    The dogbone bearings are frozen. I need to know a way of removing the bearings with the shoulder spacer in the middle stopping me from pushing it out easily. You can't get a socket in there so any tricks would be nice. Obviously I'm replacing them so force is in line.
  2. demi Husqvarna
    AA Class

    Location:
    Cheyenne, WYO
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    12 WR 300
    Other Motorcycles:
    '14 SH 500, 81 Gilera 125 C1, 17 KTM
    The spacer you mention must be the shock spacer? Generous helping of PB Blaster or similar product, then heat if required... if the spacer is already out, just pick the needles out and gently grind a line thru the middle of thehousing and tap a small chisel between the housing and dogbone... should work. All else fails, order a new dogbone.... only around a 100 bux and it includes bearings. Hope I understood your situation.good luck.
  3. hamiltonuh60 Husqvarna
    A Class

    I would recommend getting a "bearing puller." I just bought a cheap one from harbor freight and it works great. Ironically I just pulled ALL my bearings from my linkage, swingarm, and wheels. Bearing puller makes it sooooo easy, well worth the money IMO.
  4. demi Husqvarna
    AA Class

    Location:
    Cheyenne, WYO
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    12 WR 300
    Other Motorcycles:
    '14 SH 500, 81 Gilera 125 C1, 17 KTM
    Hmmmm... thanks for the tip!!! I may look into that instead of the caveman routine...
  5. Bench Racer 117 Husqvarna
    A Class

    Location:
    Oregon
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    2007 WR250
    A new dog bone is about $100 with bearings? Crazy! Bearings are $85 for linkage replacements.

    The spacer is actually like a stop, keeping the bearing from going in too far. You can't remove it from what I can tell at this point. I will try heat. Then maybe borrow a dremel to cut the housing. I'll get it.
  6. Bagman Husqvarna
    A Class

    Do you have a bench press? There are small ones that don't cost a lot & it sounds like you do your own work.
  7. Bagman Husqvarna
    A Class

    Exactly what bearing puller did you buy? Part # or picture? Thanks
  8. vegtablebrain Husqvarna
    AA Class

    Location:
    Canada
    [IMG]I have a vice, well maybe a few. First time getting them bearings out is the hardest. When disassembled I polish the dog bone bearing surfaces. Next time bearings come out easier. Since mine have grease fittings I try to remember to grease each time I get off bike. Might be excessive but last time I checked all bearings were good.
  9. hamiltonuh60 Husqvarna
    A Class

    http://www.harborfreight.com/blind-hole-bearing-puller-95987.html

    Part # 95987

    This is the link to the bearing puller I bought from HF. I remember it costing only $45, maybe I had a coupon or it was on sale. It's a blind bearing puller so it will work for many different applications. There are some really nice sets out there like Motion Pro, but they get pricey.

    The center area between the bearings is just a spacer that I believe is not removable and is part of the cast.

    Another way of taking out the bearings is by use of a bench vise or similar, which was already stated. The problem is that center spacer won't allow you to press out the bearings. I think those particular ones must be pulled. I think some of the other bearings can be pressed out no problem though.
  10. Bench Racer 117 Husqvarna
    A Class

    Location:
    Oregon
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    2007 WR250
    I do have a vise that I use. That's how I realized I couldn't press them out going one way. It couldn't move. I took a better look and saw the spacer. Then I was a little stumped. I'll try to get a puller to use. The bearings are on their way (All Balls). I hope to get it fixed so its rideble for this weekend.
  11. rancher1 Husqvarna
    Pro Class

    Location:
    WA
    2007 and earlier 4 stroke linkage you could press the bearings straight through, the new chasis in 2008 got linkage that requires the bearing to be removed from the side it was installed on. That is why some guys are saying they can press the bearings through. I am not sure of the year of change on the 2 strokes, but I think it also changed for the 125s in 2009 when they got the new chasis. Hope this helps people understand why some can be pressed and some can't. Good Luck !
    Bagman likes this.
  12. Bagman Husqvarna
    A Class

    Good info. I will be pulling mine apart shortly & I have an 05. Thanks
  13. Bench Racer 117 Husqvarna
    A Class

    Location:
    Oregon
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    2007 WR250
    I got the bearings out with ease. I broke the rollers and cage out so all that was left was the housing. I then heated up the dogbone with a torch. I then took a flat pladed punch about 3/8", pointed the dogbone down, and sharply hit the outer edge of the bearing housing, forcing it out. Once the bearing moved out and bottomed out on the bench, I adjusted the vise wide enough so the housing would fall through the gap and finished tapping it out resting on top of the vise. Just repeat process for each bearing housing and you're done.

    It took more time to heat it up than hitting the housing out. If you use this methed, wear gloves that won't burn through cause you need to hold the dogbone up and it's a hot SOB.
  14. Bench Racer 117 Husqvarna
    A Class

    Location:
    Oregon
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    2007 WR250
    All Balls Bearings showed up today. So I got right to it. The set came with everything you need to do the linkage. With heat and cold bearings, they pressed right in using the old bearing housing and a vise. The spacers for the dogbone were just a tad too big where they wouldn't allow the linkage to go back together. So I ended up using the OEM spacers. All in all, pretty easy rebuild. Now that I have a greese gun and a better understanding of watching those vulnerable bearings, I should be able to keep these going for a long time.