Little Tricks

As in penny-tech little tricks?

How about a "universal, one-size-fits-all rear axle alignment tool"?
I originally wrote this when I had a KTM 640 Adventure. I have a Sherco now... but as it's "universal" it will work just fine for Huskys too.

OK... so it's not universal. The rod length may vary from bike to bike and it's of no value on a bike with snail cam adjusters like a DRZ for example... or a shaft drive anything. So I lied... so sue me.


What you need:
All you need to make one is a 35 cent piece of steel 1/8” welding rod... about 36" worth, and a zip-tie. For a total investment of what? 40 cents maybe. You can make this tool tricker and fancier... but I doubt you can make it cheaper.
Get at least 1/8" steel rod for this... smaller diameter or softer materials are too flexy and inaccurate.


Why you need it:
Rear axle alignment, with few exceptions, is usually only as accurate as the axle block and swingarm hash marks… which is to say not very accurate at all.
Rear axle misalignment can cause unstable tracking down a straight road, “odd” handling in corners, accelerated tire wear, brake pad wear and chain and sprocket wear.


How you make it:
Cut the rod to length so it is a few inches longer than the approximate distance from your swingarm pivot shaft center to the rear axle center… in the case of the KTM LC4, about 29-30” is fine.



Grind a point on one end of the rod and bend that end at a 90 degree angle. The length of this bend will vary from brand to brand, model to model, but the idea is to have the major length of rod parallel with the swingarm when measuring.
In the case of the KTM LC4, a handy length is about ¾”.
Most dirt bikes will take a straight rod section and a variable length on the short end of the 90 degree bend.

Now grab a zip tie, put it tight over the long end of the rod and cut the tail off short and to a clean point. Congrats… you have made a tool.



If you need to, you can make more complicated sets of bends to clear things that are permanently in the way. The drawing is an approximation of a tool for a '79 to present Harley-Davidson with a rubber mount driveline.



How it works:
On a KTM LC4, there are rounded plastic buttons in both ends of the swingarm pivot shaft and one on the fixed end of the rear axle… and then an aluminum axle nut.
If you don't have plastic buttons, you've got a pivot shaft end, or a cap nut or both.
Still works... just make sure you're on center.

It doesn’t matter which side you start on. You place the pointy end in the center of the plastic button (or what ever you have) on the swingarm pivot shaft...



... and slide the zip-tie so the pointy end of it aligns with the center of the axle… that is the "reference length" for one side.



Now you transfer the tool to the other side and see where the center of the axle is in relationship to the reference length.



Adjust that side of the axle (or both sides, more or less) until both sides measure the same distance by the tool, then using the current alignment as a baseline, readjust your axle for proper chain tension for your particular bike.
That's it... you done.


This is the "whole tool"... nothin' but the tool.

So, with a 40 cent tool, you can potentially get your axle aligned to an accuracy of well under one millimeter. The accuracy of the tool is based on the users consistency.

So there ya go,
C

very cool!

I use a variation of creeper's tool as a "one man" sag measurement tool. I used a length of flux cored aluminum welding rod, as that's what was handy.
Norman

Hey Norman...

Yep... me too. Hook the 90 end into the slot corner in the swingarm and just slide the ziptie to your reference point. That's one way to do it... I'm sure there are others depending on the bike.

Needing help to check sag is just plain... wrong.

Creeper,
I need to hook up with you for an '03 TE610E seat job this Winter.
Norman

Here is my (or CH's) trick for the kick stand on my WR 250. Not sure if you TE owners can use this or not.

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Well, to be honest I didn’t think of this one myself, I just happened to wonder across it the other day at Costco. I figured with all the sidestand issues us 08 TE owners have been having, that this might come in handy:




Apparently, all that is required is a packing tape dispenser, and viola:

I really kinda want to see that bike on it's sidestand without the tape dispenser!

another little idea...if you can find one now....I use a 35mm film (plastic tub thing) to store a few small bolts, washer nuts of stuff that might fall off, its came in handy more than once on long rides, carry it in my front fender, tube bag. or fanny pack

I always carry a 3' piece of clear hose for fuel swaps. They call my bike the XR-valdez as it as the 3.8 gal clarke on it.

Google sailboat sail tape.

When your graphixs begin to peel/fall off the bionic double sided tape works real well. Sail boat tape is pretty good stuff, I have seen 'Venture' and 'Tytan'. Venture being the stronger of the two. Much like the 3M stuff you see at office depot but way way stronger.

Put a light coating of lithium (white ) grease on the inside surfaces of your air box and side cover areas. This acts as a pre-filter for your air filter trapping all kinds if stuff before it hits your air filter. You'll be surprised how much crap it traps.

Good Stuff. I like PB Blaster though for penetrating oil. Got me out of a few binds.

I've been wondering if there's gonna be an important info sticky. I seem to recall something like that in another place