my setup was running pretty consistent for a few weeks leaving the autotune enabled with +/- 10% change allowed. but i changed the A/F to 13.7 for a 2 hour scramble, it ran great during the race and did its job of conserving gas, but for the next weekend i dropped it back down to 13 and its started to act up and run erratically. anybody else noticing anything funny with theres? hip
I've yet to try AFR other than 13.2 but mine has a bunch of trouble with 2% and 5% throttle, so much so that I've been copying 10 to 5 and 2 and then adjusting manually. It wants to lean 2 and 5 more and more...too lean. 10 and up is absolutely perfect. I'm still very happy with the setup, it's just not quite as 'auto' as I think it has the potential to be. A firmware update could improve this...hint hint.
Yes, any of the cells can be set to whatever AFR you want (within some practical limits) and Autotune will attempt achieve it. I think the firmware has some issues with 2% and 5% causing it to misread and keep adjusting leaner and leaner or so it appears with my bike. 0% is manually set while idling, per DJ, AT is set to not adjust 0%, 2% and 5%. I know you know this but to clarify for others, 13.7 is leaner than 13.2.
ive been waiting for a firmware update also, i check weekly i emailed dynojet on the accelerator pump feature, he told me to give it a little extra on quick grabs, put 10's in all 3 of the cells. i havent roadtested it but i put them in there
the color of my plug was pretty good at 13.2, if you change the AFR my tables didnt move very much but you could tell riding wise. tonight i ran the accelerator pump feature and wow, a big difference in the power hit. i put the 10/10/10 as the setting but may try 15 in the percent change table.....so 10/10/15. hip
Lairpost - problem with Auto Tune I too have come to find out that my Power Commander with Auto Tune ran great for a little while and then started running baddly at low throttle settings. I checked the different maps that it automatically created and found the same problem that you did, at 2% and 5% the auto tune continued to lean it out even though I had it set for 13.2 afr. This seemed to be a problem at the lower rpm range, esp. between 1750 to 3000 rpm. After 3000 rpm it actually made it richer by quite a bit (I think due to my heavy wrist). I couldn't tell that much when I was riding on the road but when I took it off road, I had to use the clutch a lot more than usual because of the erratic rpm change. It would go from 1700/1800 rpm at idle to 1100/1200 rpm when the throttle would hit 2% to 5% and then surge up to 2000 rpm and back down as low as 1100 rpm. Ran awsome above the 5% and idled great at 0%. The base map had it set for -14 at 2% at 1750 rpm but Auto Tune eventually changed it to -41. The base map had it set for -15 at 2% at 2000 rpm and eventually changed that to -52. I went ahead and changed both 2% and 5% columns to all zeros and it runs great again at the low throttle settings. I will have to check it after a couple of rides to see if it continues to do the same thing again. I guess for now I will just have to save a good working map and keep reinstalling it on my bike when it starts running poorly again. Is there anyone else out there with this same problem?
Is it possible that the ECU makes the mixture really rich when the bike gets extremely hot to save the engine, and the Autotune compensates by leaning it way out? Then when the bike is no longer hot it is temporarily way too lean until the Autotune figures out that it needs to go back to a normal setting? The reason I ask is that I have heard that the ECU does indeed do this, although I don't have a PCV or Autotune (I have a PCIII). Did the problem come up right after a gnarly off-road ride?
Kevin610, It would be great if you would look at or save the trim map after several different riding conditions and durations. It world be interesting to see just how much the trim map changes or if it's mostly constant. Sometimes auto-tuning systems are best for calibration under controlled conditions, then running the system with static settings learned from the auto-tune.
Thank goodness for my carby. I am a dinosaur but all this tweeking is frightening an old F@*T like me from updating. When you add to the picture the the type of efi Husky runs wont allow you to kick start with a dead battery, why have we gone this route? KTM withdrew for at least 12 months as they were not happy with their efi. What is really happening out there folks. I ask this as efi is at least a 20 year old technology for road bikes, however you poor guys seem to be constantly fiddling and remapping the jolly thing.
PC and AT I heard back from Dynojet today. They had a couple of thoughts on why Autotune might be making it lean (although I don't think it pertained to my problem). Bottom line is that it runs great everywhere but at 2% at low rpm. They said that all I have to do is input zeros for the target AFR and that will disable the AT for those cells, so it seems that it is an easy enough fix . I will post back later if this doesn't fix the problem. Aloha, Kevin
i pulled my a/t off for now, im considering just taking the thing to a dynojet authorized tuning center to just tune it with the powercommander V only. i know it wont be the fastest setup, but i want to ride not fiddle with this thing. mine was having trouble with the low and slow rpm ranges but the biggest thing was after 30-40 minutes of riding the thing would fall on its face and almost buck me off of it. i've heard rumors the autotune gets confused during engine braking and keeps on messing with the map to much. my last resort will be buying all the parts to make it a carby TC but try to keep the headlight intact if its possible, i dont even care about the electric start hip
I have a question just for my own understanding of this system. If you unplug the PCV and AT, would it revert back to the original Husky oem map that it was using before you intalled it, or is that altered now.
pcv is a piggy back so it just alters the signal coming from the computer, your stock computer remains unaltered if it is removed
The Auto tune system will only work as good as the information it sees. If the sensor reads 12.0 and you target 13.0 then it will continually lean out the fuel curve until it reaches it. If this is the case then something on the bike is causing the bike to run rich off idle. This could be due to heat compensation or accel pump settings in the ECU. The only way around it would be to zero out your Target AFR values in the problem area. The Auto tune will have no affect on deceleration UNLESS your TPS is not reading correctly. The Target AFT table should be set to zero at the 0% column so it does not try to tune deceleration but if your TPS reads 0-2% due to a bad signal then obviously it can affect this area and cause issues.
