• Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

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    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Lower chain adjuster, tight or left loose???

ruwfo

ruwfo

Administrator
Staff member
Guys,

A friend just bought a 82 250XC & asked me if the lower chain adjuster was bolted tight
to the swingarm so it couldn't swing or left slightly loose? It's tight on my 83 250XC,
but loose on my 510, so i wasn't sure? What is it on your bike?

Husky John
 

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  • 82_XC_CHAIN_ADJUSTER.JPG
    82_XC_CHAIN_ADJUSTER.JPG
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That's a chain guide for keeping the chain aligned with the sprocket.
It's not a tensioner and should not be used for adjusting slack in the chain. The spring loaded wheel does that.
The rollers in the guide do not have bearings in them and would wear out very quickly if they were spinning continuously.
 
Without studying the parts sheet or inspecting one before typing. There is an aluminum piece with a rubber grommet and a steel sleve which bolts to the swing arm and that chain guide thing with the plates and rollers or whatever you put in their place bolts to that. At least with new parts I would expect the rubber gommet would shift as needed. I generally can push mine with a good shove of a riding boot, not sure exactly what is slipping but I guess tight is the one word answer to your question.

I looked at my sheets or the ones from halls but 1982 seems missing what I described is on the 83 sheet. If you hit a rock or log it will go back as far as the chain will let it and then you push it to about the angle in your picture with your foot.

fran
 
All makes sense now, without really looking at it's function I wasn't sure, so better to ask :thumbsup:
 
I originally intended to use a modern style chain guide on my 390 rebuild, but in the end I have used the original. However, instead of using the original roller without bearings, I have used a roller with bearings from a late model KTM and it fits perfectly with a thin washer on each side of the bearings. I got it off ebay in the UK here:

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/KTM-CHAIN-ROL...31?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item35ac8bf3b3

For the brief time I have managed to ride my 390
rolleyes.gif
it has worked a treat and having bearings should last a good while. It is also moulded with a raised section in the centre so that the chain is guided onto the sprocket more accurately.
 
Murph said:
I originally intended to use a modern style chain guide on my 390 rebuild, but in the end I have used the original. However, instead of using the original roller without bearings, I have used a roller with bearings from a late model KTM and it fits perfectly with a thin washer on each side of the bearings. I got it off ebay in the UK here:

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/KTM-CHAIN-ROL...31?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item35ac8bf3b3

For the brief time I have managed to ride my 390 :rolleyes: it has worked a treat and having bearings should last a good while. It is also moulded with a raised section in the centre so that the chain is guided onto the sprocket more accurately.
Click to expand...

+2

I just used a ball bearing lower roller on mine - Moose Racing part number M795-14. I cut a length of metal automotive fuel line and used that as a spacer/reducer bushing because the KTM bolt is larger.
 
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