• Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Lower chain guard removal 610

R

ricroc636

Husqvarna
C Class
I have a 06 610 sm. and the rubber insert is almost down to the metal! Would it be ok to just remove the guard below the swingarm? Any issues or problems would occur if removed?
 
ricroc636 said:
I have a 06 610 sm. and the rubber insert is almost down to the metal! Would it be ok to just remove the guard below the swingarm? Any issues or problems would occur if removed?
Click to expand...
Not a good idea! Just order a new rubber block for the inside. I think they cost about $20, maybe less.
 
Yea
1lunger said:
Not a good idea! Just order a new rubber block for the inside. I think they cost about $20, maybe less.
Click to expand...

Yeah it is there for a purpose as is the polyprop (not rubber) friction block. It is a guide to assist the chain in staying on the sprocket.
 
Let's ensure we're talking about the same thing, here.

IMAGE_1000001424.JPG


I'm talking about the black plastic thing that says "BRP" on it in this photo. That's my bike (a 630), but it is the same as the mount on the 610.

Here's the OEM setup:

IMG_0875.JPG


Remove a few bolts and that part just comes right off. I don't think you even have to break the chain to do it.

The only other thing I can imagine you're talking about is the roller that's up under the swingarm pivot. If you've worn that down to the metal, then you are probably running your chain too tight.

If you're talking about the roller up by the swingarm pivot, you can replace that as well. It's a single bolt.

There is a similar roller on top, above the chain and just behind the front sprocket. Again, you can replace that with a single bolt. No chain break necessary.

The only other piece left is the chain slider that wraps around the swingarm. I replaced mine when I replaced my chain & sprockets. Again, it's a few bolts; no big deal to change.

If you go cutting that stuff off and running your bike with any of it missing, there's a good chance your chain is going to start wearing grooves into metal pieces that will cost you a lot more time and money to replace.
 
4bc9e804.jpg
the 610 has a better guide then the 630, but the 610 will bolt right up to the 630. Mines powder coated red and I did the nessisary things to get it in line with the chain. If its not stright it will rub the ( poly, not rubber ) block very fast!
 
Yeah sorry my bad - momentary brain fart! - it is the mounting tab that is welded on the swingarm and sometimes not that well aligned. Lunger that does not look like the OEM 610 one??
 
BiG DoM said:
Yeah sorry my bad - momentary brain fart! - it is the mounting tab that is welded on the swingarm and sometimes not that well aligned. Lunger that does not look like the OEM 610 one??
Click to expand...
The BRP bolts right up to the welded tab.
 
I was helping a ADV traveler this week get his BMW 650 Dakar ready for his Mexico to S. America trip and noticed it didn't even have a chain guide. And my street bike doesn't have one. As far as I know, they are to keep the chain on for offroading should you hit something that would knock the chain off. It won't come off by itself just running around the sprockets. For an SM I wouldn't worry about removing it all together.
 
CJBROWN said:
I was helping a ADV traveler this week get his BMW 650 Dakar ready for his Mexico to S. America trip and noticed it didn't even have a chain guide. And my street bike doesn't have one. As far as I know, they are to keep the chain on for offroading should you hit something that would knock the chain off. It won't come off by itself just running around the sprockets. For an SM I wouldn't worry about removing it all together.
Click to expand...
I believe all the guides and rollers are there to compensate for the longer travel rear end (vs a street bike) and looser chain requirement to allow said travel, and the fact that at extreme compression/extension, the chain rubs on various parts of the bike. On a street bike, the suspension is really never in a position that the chain could derail from the sprocket. The chain is simply never that loose. On a dirtbike, different story.
 
I thought the SM model had much shortened suspension travel to be more like a streetbike? Maybe not enough.
I'm curious about the Dakar though, maybe it's considered a 'street bike'.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top