250-500cc make a wr300 outrun a 450!

Was a the sand dunes last week, got smoked by my buddies on 450s on the big hill. Now all i hear again is the 2 stroke vs 4 stroke bs......what can i do to this thing to make it rip? Is the pro circut pike worth while? has anyone bumped the compression and did some head work? I can not find a high compression head, can the stock one be modified? Let me know....i would like our spring trip to the dunes to go differently lol

Search for posts on race head. And dyno HRc630 did some dyno runs

Why bother, take your mates to the woods and get even

The best way to beat the big 4t's in the sand dunes is to not race them there. 2t's work great on the technicals and the track.

buy a new 450!

I sold my 450. So no going back now. I'd have to eat crow! Now I own two 300s. I keep the gasgas for the real technical woods riding, and the husky for more open faster stuff. I have checked out the posts on the race head. Except I can not find one to order anywhere. Some folks say not to mod the stock head some say its ok. As far as the pipe goes is it worth the coin??

I remember reading an article in MXA I think and Pro Circuit did some work on one and it put out over 50 hp with a four stroke like torque curve. I have heard that the stock silencer is fairly restrictive. George at Uptite in Santa Ana Ca. has a good handle on these also.

have the head modifyed, get a pipe and silencer that is designed to make the power pull up top, and jet it, adjust the power vlave . it will do just fine

I just read that arcticle about MXA making a beast out of it...Impressive! borrowed a piston out of a gasgas....ported it, pro circut pipe and did the head. I like all those ideas the only one i wonderd about was they swapped an ignition out of a husky cr250.. dont the new bikes have the ducati ignition thats sup to be the latest and greatest? As far as jetting goes, i already swapped the mikuni for a pwk and its pretty much right on. also where could i find some info on adjusting the power valve to make it more topend friendly??

If you want to go the high compression/head work route then I've got a GG300 domed piston/rings for sale. Used it in my 300 for 1.4hrs before I realized it doesn't work well with a stock motor.

Save your money. You'll never out run the 450's in the sand and hills. Ride more single track full of nasty rocks, muddy creeks and slimmy off camber hills... Just my 2-cents (east coast guy)

As much fun as hopping one up is, keep in mind that there will always be someone faster. Not knowing your skill level, but get the bike well set up for you and learn how to make it do what you want . Let them win up the hill, then take them through the dunes and get your revenge.

OR get a TM300! My son's 2011 TM250MX out ran guy that works for me every time in drag races. They are both very good at drag racing so it's a wash there. It was on a long grass field just getting past 1/2 way into 5th gear before sutting down. We thought the 12 Kaw 450 was going to blow up he was running it so hard. Not sand hills but......

@pc PM me what you want for the piston and rings
@jhunter i do lots of that type of riding....your probably right, even if i couldnt outrun them tho i would at least like to keep up tho...the particular hill i was really struggling with a buddy came over the top at close to 50 mph, and that was on a radar gun, not speedo. i couldnt even make the top!

and as far as someone will always be faster i already reminded that to my 450 buddies! lol i told them the thing i learned from sledding is even tho i have a turbo sled myself there will always be someone who has a faster one and can outride you!

Get the Husky RACE HEAD, Keihin PWM carb, DEP pipe / Silencer, then have the rear boost port brought up to the same height as the main transfers and cleaned up. Then it will eat 450's.

i like your style motorhead! I can score a PWM on the cheap from JD jetting, Is the PWM that much better on top then a PWK38mm Air stiker? also on said race head where can i buy it?? my local dealer has no idea... DEP exhaust over PC?? ill look into that...awesome

Thanks.

Yes, I think the PWM works better on the top. The 300 has plenty down low already. And BTW, I like the '99 YZ needle the best.

The race head is a Husky special part. Do a search on here and you should be able to find the part number. If you can't, call Hall's, or post back and I'll get it for you.

The PC would be OK, but I'm really liking this DEP pipe. It pulls out hard on top and never seems to stop pulling. You can over run a gear hard, which can save you a shift in some conditions, but you can get away with whatever pipe you like. The FMF can even get the job done if you like lots of low end.

I think the race head, a little bit of port work, good pipe, & the PWM will be a good sand combo. I Run the race head pro circuit p2 pipe and the 38 PWK. Not on sand but loose dirt shell rock type hill climbs I have been able to out climb a few of the 450's.
I used to spend a lot of time in the sand, 2-3 rides a week, for the coarse of like 6 years, in the 90's fuel was cheap. Did mostly hill shooting (drag race). With the above mods it will really help what you want to do but, your biggest gains are going to come elsewhere though (porting will be good though). Look more into your gearing, tire choice, tire air pressure, rotational weight, and rider position.
I would run tall enough gearing that I could launch in first but only go to 3rd gear on the short hills, and only have to down shift to 2nd on the really long steep slip face hill climbs and you want the tallest gearing possible and the fewest shifts possible yet still being able to do both. Some people really like to launch in 2nd so they dont have to risk hitting N, just compensate for that, (4th short hills, 3rd long hills).
I would start my ride at our smaller end of our sand dunes (St. Antony's). Running more tire air pressure (taller gearing) in a good paddle (shorter paddles but more of them) or if your using really good knobbie (research alot of tires) the lightest with the best sand traction is the winner. More air pressure will give you a taller profile yet will also let the tire spin more, if using a paddle the more it spins the more forward speed you will have (to an extent). Then air down till you find what air pressure works in the condition yet still gives you the longest time in the top gear you are trying to hit (lower air will result in lower overall gearing). As you go out to the long tall hill climbs, air accordingly for your speed and motor rev.
You will notice that rider position will play into this a lot. Launch up on the tank and as you feel your traction and speed catching up start to lean/move back. If you start to loose to much motor rev. start to move up towards the tank again, this will allow traction when needed and also determine you rpm range to match conditions.
Most people that have rode alot already do most of these things. They just need to matched up and fine tuned to your tire, traction, and motor, for the conditions that your in.
I have beat alot and have seen people beat alot of bigger machines that had thousands into their motor work but the worst tire choice, gearing that you could pick for the conditions and wonder why something with just a pipe and proper jetting beat them?? They just swear that "you've done more to the motor". It takes some time but a good proper set up will make you smoke the 450's that you want to be. Good luck and ride it pined.

Unless something is way off in your motor, I can't imagine a hill that a 450 could go up at 50 and you can't even make it?? My 11 300 is all stock except for jetting the stock Mikuni and am 14 tooth front. I can ride all over Glamis and I don't even run a paddle.

Yes I'd look at jetting / needle first as it doesn't sound right