Last spring I finally got sick of my leaking master cylinder. Went on a search for a replacement, hard to find a new one and very expensive, thought about a rebuild but did not want to keep revisiting this problem. I contacted Magura directly and they helped with the part numbers to build up a replacement, there is no prebuilt kit so the parts are sourced one piece at a time all from the same supplier on Amazon. Magura #2000302 master cylinder model 167 9.5 piston diameter for mineral fluid left side. Magura #0723189 Deco Lever kit (High Idle Lever) Magura #2700177 Mirror clamp black with m10x125 threads Magura #0723187 safety start switch The tube will hook up to 167 master same as it is on the 163 master. The conversion was relatively easy. I bled the system so I was starting with fresh fluid not contaminated stuff in the clutch slave and hose. Removed the old lever, bolted on the new and started adding the extra pieces. For the safety start switch you will have to figure out some new connectors to the bike harness, protected spades would work ( I went with a really nice Duetsch connector I had around). The Deco lever required the barrel from the cable to be filed or ground down to reduce the height as it is thicker than the lever, file or a dremel type tool was used and the barrel held with pliers if you like your finger tips. Not the diameter of the barrel but the height. To fill the cylinder I just kept filling the tank and stroking the lever with the occasional taps on the cylinder to work the air out. Then I gave the system a full bleed. I used a really light fork oil (but probably voided the warranty). Recommended is the Magura blood. Use what ever you feel but it needs to be a mineral oil base, I have read people use everything from baby oil to olive oil. Haven't had any problems or leaks since. Kirk
The pieces assembled and unassembled. You will have to add the deco lever and switch on the bike, this was from my test assembly to figure out what I was doing (don't lose the little plunger for the safety switch) . The mirror clamp obviously you can add before mounting.
Thanks for the tip! Now when I went through this issue I read and read all that there was on it...left me convinced a rebuild would be temporary (esp when you read the school of thought that says the bore is inherently fooked and rebuilds are a useless/temp band-aid.) My rebuild was several years ago now (probably three, at least) and I've never had any issues since (and only had to do it once.)
It’s a bit of a shame: both, my TE310 and the TE630 has the same leak issue, so I guess is a lack of quality from Magura… Fortunately one year ago I decided to change the one from the TE310 with the “clake one” ( a too much softer clutch master cylinder device, as I got “finger exhausted” when riding endure tracks) No leaks at all since then and also I have increased the handling of the bike due to the total control of the clutch
I've been looking for a thread like this for a long time. My 2005 SMR 450 master have been leaking for so long and replacement masters cost so much. Ordered the same clutch as you and hoping it will fix my clutch while making it a "one finger pull". Thank you so much for the images and info. You are a beast!
Maybe a budget alternative has shown up. Thread started here: https://advrider.com/f/threads/hydraulic-mineral-clutch-master-cylinder.1419745/ Direct link to The vendor: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/329...&terminal_id=310e544662154d6a8ae2aced667a23f4 Someone else can figure out if this works, looks pretty close. I am happy with my repair but it cost a lot more than this option.
I am surprised that Magura mentioned that there is no prebuild kit. I found a table with magura 167 configurations and found kit no: 2700183. See page 23: https://magura.com.tw/-pub/user_files/download/en_Catalog/2019 MAGURA Powersports Catalogue.pdf It contains the 167 master, with 9.5piston, mineral oil resistant. Incl. Deco lever, mirror mount and switch; https://www.magurausa-shop.com/product.htm?pid=117384&cat=22430 I have not ordered it yet, but it seems to be cheaper than combining your loose components. Am I missing something???
Looks good to me. Great improvement over original. Got mine in Germany I think. Herself sourced one for her SWM RS650R during a trip in Portugal. I'd recommend replacing the Slave Cylinder with the Oberon version. Slaves cause most of the failures.
