methods of removing aluminum fuel tank dents.

Has anybody on forum used *mild* heating and air prsure to fix dents in , say a 1983 aluminum tank? I'd prefer dent removal to the stickers you can buy to mimic bare metal panels.
Dents are not deep or creased.
I ask because Ive had good sucess fixing exhaustr pipe dents with 35-40 PSI pressurized air and a Map gas torch.
Understand aluminum is different than steel.
So Im asking.
Thanks, Dave

Also, I realize I'd have to reinforce "tunnel" area of tank...."flat" area, so as to not cause it to swell.

I've never tried pressure and heat dent removal on anything but that's about to change. I've got some old dented up grenade silencers that are going to be guinea pigs.

I've done a fair amount of aluminum tig welding and I think removing dents with pressure and heat would be tricky. It seems to me it would take a lot more patience than steel due to aluminums malleable nature combined with its inherent ability to transfer heat. Applying heat a small amount at a time with periodic cooling periods (to allow the heat spread to dissipate) would be key, not to mention far less pressure (start with 5-8 psi).

Talk to your local body shop about paintless dent repair. Search paintless dent repair or PDR it's amazing what these guys can do now, much much better than traditional repair with small dents. I have seen people do stainless appliances to motorcycle tanks.

What if you welded an aluminum rod to the dents and then used a slid hammer to pull the dents out?
You would have to cut the rods off and refinish those spots.

Paw Paw

If you look back a few pages here you can find a thread that Dartyppyt started showing how he does the tank repairs you have discussed and also explains why the techniques that have been discussed here do not work well

I know of a panel beater who specialises in old Land Rovers (God only knows why ha ha)
I'm told he is able to use some heat and a cool wet rag to get the aluminium panels to pop back into shape.
It might be worth a look on YouTube & a trip to your favourite panel shop that doesn't just do thick coats of Bondo.

I would hesitate to use much more than 3 or 4 PSI on the tank. Like you mentioned; the tunnel will have to be reinforced.

I have seen tanks burst with to much air pressure.

I have tried the heat and cool method without much success. There is a puller that uses glue and a stud that threads through a t-piece. I haven't had much success there.

Tried two paintless dent shops and either they weren't interested or couldn't do it.

I would think welding a stud on and pulling the dent would be the best alternative. With aluminum you could then cut the stud off and then sand/ polish the aluminum to a really nice shine.

Darin does very nice work. PM him if he doesn't see this this.

Nothing I have attempted but I have seen it done.
One old chap made a bend bar from an old long screwdriver and welded a screw on it at the end . He then fitted a wooden round knob from a drawer that was small enough to pass trough the filler hole.
He then managed to gently pry out from the inside all the dents using the strong bit of the filler neck as a leverage point. Obviously there is skill required but it made sense and it worked.
Doesn't work on very hard to reach areas but he made the sides look easy to do.

I did hear about people using pressure but I would be wary doing that with aluminium! The dented part is normally a bit harder than the unworked material and I'd say the rest will stretch before the dent comes out.

I did that on a TT500 aluminum tank and wished I hadn't. Instead of moving the dent, the tunnel collapsed enough the tank would not fit on the frame.

Post up a picture of where dent is?

How deep is dent?

Is dent into a rounded part of tank?

Don't use any methods till I see it. Heat, studs, pry bars, glue pullers,air, etc..... Cause you waisting time and you will ruin tank, tunnel or filler neck.

You need to block and wedge the tunnel first. Probably in two or three areas. Length wise in the tunnel.

What is it with heat and old bikes....

That's funny, I like that.

I was at High Point Raceway Mt. Morris PA this weekend for the Pro Motocross series race, and because the tank is in my locker at work it won't be until Monday I post those photo's.
I've stripped the tank clean of all paint so dents should show up clearly.

Thanks all for post responses !
Dave

If the decals can be avoided I'd like that but I certainly don't want to ruin tank, it's a good one I got from Steve up in Canada.
So I need to also say, where the seat rubs the tank, the weld beads are worn, (smoothed down), and so it's resistance to air pressure is questionable. It *could* rupture easier than a perfect tank.

dave
I

That's pretty common for the welds to be worn down on these old tanks.

No, you do not want to pressurize tank. Good way to blow the petcock fitting out. Let alone blow your hand off!
Plus, internet says to freeze them! That's wrong as well. You will deform it as soon as freezing starts.

I only put air pressure in it to check for leaks after welding and spray soapy water on them.

Let me see tank with dent, etc....

You can shore up a tank tunnel with PVC pipe and wooden door shims. That's aluminum only. The recessed areas have to be shimmed good so they don't pop out.

Now steel Husky tanks! That's different animal.

FOUR photo's total.


There are two dents on the right side.I'll call this Dent#1 (by far largest). Dent #2 is right behind it but doesn't show in this photo.[/URL][/IMG]