Mick's troublesome TE510

Thought I'd best start this for a full break down on my bike, that keeps fully breaking down as opposed to starting several threads like I have been. Mods, if this is not in the right place, please remove it or delete and advise mo on where to put it.
The full story is, I bought a TE510, '07 (built 06, but 07 model on paperwork) I had many issues with the shop, such as the speedo not working 30 mins after their chief mechanic did a roadworthy certificate, neutral light being on intermittently whilst in gear, radiator support mount broken off in frame, high beam switch broken. I took it back to the bike shop, gave it to the mechanic (he was unaware that the bike was coming back for a warranty repair) and surprisingly enough found that the wheel bearings, headstem bearings and rear pads needed replacing for roadworthy condition, when he called me to tell me he couldn't repair the speedo, but had found and fixed all of these other issues, he was quite upset when i said that his dealer principal would be replacing them under warranty.

As they could not fix the speedo, they gave me a trailtech kit to suit a KTM, as it's what they had there. I was pretty upset at this time and told them not to fit it, as i do not want anybody under the supervision of their head mechanic to come within 100ft of my bike.

I had a few meetings with the dealer principal about this and feel i got out of it fairly. I would have preferred that it didn't happen though.

When i got home, I split the case of the dash, soaked it in contact cleaner, and cleaned all of the sensors, all works now (except high beam light and backlight) and plan on fitting the trailtech later.

First ride out (off road) In the first 30 mins it overheated on tight single track, then would not start. This continued all day on rock steps, eventually I found it was leaking coolant form what i believed to be the T piece. After this it was impossible to start, ran the battery flat trying. let it cool, started with some persuasion. Ordered silicon hoses and the cast Y piece.
I did a once over and service while checking the valves (all were in spec) After tightening the radiator hoses to see if i could possibly go out, i found a pinhole in the left radiator spraying coolant ON TO the T piece then the valve cover, causing glycol steam. at 6 on a friday night i somehow managed to track down some good 2nd hand radiators from supermotoaus.com, fitted them, then went for round 2,

went great for most of the day, then late in the afternoon it began to steam again, around the T piece (not the radiator thank god) it was also consistently hard to start whilst warm. Pressure tested the new radiators and both caps I've been using and all are fine. I guess now I wait for my silicon hoses and Y piece to show up and test it out again.

I'm a bit confused with the hot starting though, I have the hot start pulled out (have tried both) and it really doesn't want to sometimes, usually on the side of a tight steep hillclimb. Today it even sounded like the starter was spinning, but only catching a little every few revolutions. I'll replace the plug tomorrow an see how i go.


Sorry for the poorly written post, but It's been a huge day, and i'm really getting frustrated with the whole thing. There's a few other small issues that i would like to post pictures up of if anyone could give me some advice. Things I'm not sure if they're factory or not, and if anyone has some little secrets on what i should do to it to keep it running nicely or get a few more ponies. It's a really lovely bike to ride, I just can't wait to get it all dialled in.

Mick.

This should give you some idea's

SCOTT SUMMERS: ME & MY HUSKY | News | Dirt Bike Magazine

Cheers, good article with some nice ideas.

I was wondering if anyone would be able to tell me what this tab next to the kickstand, currently gouging into the swingarm is meant to do, and how it should be properly fitted?

I took both sets of radiators to a local shop, had the pinhole repaired (there was two) all of them pressure tested, both caps pressure tested (Have a 1.1 and a 1.4) so as soon as my hoses arrive the cooling system should be in check with the Uptite Y, silicon hoses, new clamps etc.

In the interim I'm giving it an all over clean and replacing some worn fasteners, the indicators I broke off etc.

Has nobody got an idea about that kickstand tab?

I looked at mine & I don't have that tab

Guess I'll remove it, doesn't seem to be of any use.

Pulled the airbox and rubber sock last night, airbox had a pretty solid collection of gunk in the bottom of it. Soaking them now, will clean and refit this afternoon.

Pulled airbox, intake boot, filter, cage, screen etc and scrubbed in petrol then soapy water and flushed with clean water. While I was at it I pulled the rest of the fairings and gave them a good scrub and polish. Noticed the air filter was looking a little sad, so I might grab another tomorrow and use this one as a spare. Also sat down with a pick and screwdriver and straightened the bent fins on the radiators.
Bit concerned about getting the intake set up back in faultlessly. I'm going to try putting the airbox and boot in pre-assembled.
Hopefully after all of this I'll be able to just ride it and enjoy it for a while. Last time i rode it there was some definite hot start issues, will see if the issue is still prevalent next ride.

All back together, then wouldn't start. Battery was full, everything was as it should be. Found a bolt in the frame that holds some cables near the coil. The nut that's welded on to a tab on the frame was stripped. Dremiled out the nut, and welded in a new one. threaded in fine, then would start. Surprise surprise, a NEW problem.

Starter motor appears to spin, but it feels like it engages once every few rotations. Thoughts anyone? New starter I assume. I've never done one on a bike, and whilst I can't imagine it would be too difficult, I'm at my wits end with this bike and am considering having a shop fix it and then put it up for sale.

Any ideas? Is there an aftermarket starter motor available that will exceed standard life?

Sounds like you're having fun! I found a few fixings loose and went over the whole bike - 09510SM - with Loctite checking everything. Also, I had the throttle side subframe mounting bolt stripped from the factory so I ran a longer bolt with a nyloc through it. Re the starter, I'd whip it off and inspect the gearing on it. If the bike's not that old get one under warranty?

07' So there won't be any warranty I'm taking it to a dealer and having them fix the starter and go over the whole bike to ensure everything that's been done meets factory specs. I enjoy working on bikes, but I'd rather be riding it, and this thing is really giving me the s--ts now.

For sure. I love spannering in the winter and doing what needs to be done but then hope the trade off is a summer of riding. Whereabouts are you? I'm near Huskysport in the UK and they're a solid bunch if you want a good dealer with knowledge.

I'm in Australia, could be a fair trip to Huskysport :P

Full Throttle is who I'm taking it to, they're a husky dealer, and after a good chat with the workshop manager I think they should be ok.

Back and done. Had it rejetted to suit the pipe and pump mod while it was there, goes a whole lot better. The Uptite Y fouled on my radiator guards, but removed the rear bracket and was fine, seems to be well supported. Silicone hoses fitter like a dream, replaced every clamp, crossover hose etc and used some of that fancy $40 a litre coolant. Hopefully will get a chance to test it out on dirt this weekend providing the rain holds off.

have you tried the aftermarket impellar for the waterpump?? that stopped mine from heating up. also on the hot start have you tried pulling both the choke and the hotstart out?

Yep, tried that. Although I didn't understand how it would help, I got desperate. Jetting was changed, no more hotstarting problems

Spent a full day at Beerwah in the forest. Ran great with zero hiccups. For now I just want it to stay like than, and I can focus more on other bikes Might throw a few pics up after the next ride.

Another few weeks, and another drama. Went fine for an hour or so, then after some pretty labouring hillclimbs, the feel in the clutch lever would vanish, leaving me with about 4 mil of play off the bar in the lever. after a climb, if you gave it heavy load in gear, then pulled the clutch in, there would be nothing there. Let it sit and cool, and it came good, only to return after a few heavy hillclimbs.
I'm guessing I've boiled the clutch fluid and it's got a bubble or similar. I was planning on just giving it a good old fashioned bleed by cracking the valve and pumping fresh fluid in it, but the local dealer reccomended a reverse bleed with a syringe and a slave cylinder o'ring. Could someone run me through a reverse bleed? I'm assuming you first pump all the fluid out of the bleed valve, then use the syringe to top it off from the valve, keeping an eye on the reservoir. Correct? Also, how do i go about changing the o' ring?

A picture's worth a thousand words and a vid's worth a thousand pictures!

The slave cylinder is different on the vid to the Husky one, but the principle is the same. When you do remove your slave then don't pull the clutch with the bleed nipple closed - the slave piston will hit it's retaining circlip and may well crack the cylinder. To remove the piston to change the o-ring then simply remove the circlip - you'll see it when you remove the slave. Pull the clutch lever and the piston will pop out. Watch out for the little spring behind the piston. You'll want a bunch of shop towel to hand as it will get messy. Probably a good time to check out the master cylinder for leaks and whatnot too.

Hope it works out.

Finally got it apart to do the bleed, thanks 7.62 for the vid, was a great help.
Wasn't very happy with what I found. The circlip was already our of it's retainer when I took the slave off, and upon inspection it looks like the skirt after the circlip has been damaged at some point as there's a few chunks taken out of it. The bleed nipple was also packed airtight with crap and corrosion. The banjo bolt and it's sealing surface were fine so I'll reuse it with another bleed nipple.



I think it's happened prior to my owning the vehicle, as I couldn't find any shards of steel inside, and it looks like it's lost a few. I'll grab another this week if the local dealer has one on the shelf, bung it on and reverse bleed it

Geez Mick, you are having some dramas!!

Hats off to you for sticking with it mate!