Motocross suspsension set up 2011 tc 449

Getting a lot of different information about suspension set up for my bike. I weigh 205 lbs and some tuners are telling me the stock forks springs are fine with a 5.4 rate rear spring others are telling me 52 up front with 6.0 rear. Some are lowering the rear shick at the shaft by 4mm like the 2012. Who has a beed on good setup for this bike. It is ok right now with the 5.4 rear spring and stock front springs with the stock valving but still feels a little unbalanced and is definitely diferent than a Japanese 450. any input would be appreciated. Thanks.

Why can't you just set the sag and go from there? Or attempt to set the sag and if the numbers aren't right, you know that different springs might be needed...

got the numbers with the 5.4 but different tuners are giving me different things. The bike is really sensitive to ride height. just rtying to get an idea from the people who are actually motoing this bike.

I've got a set of TC449 forks in my TE449. I run them with stock springs and am about 190lbs. You've a Sach rear shock i've a KYB (however ive fitted a Reiger which is lowered) i'm running a 53nm rear spring. The Reiger is about 4mm shorter than the KYB, BUT! i've found myself pushing the forks through the yokes running with the Reiger to get it turning, but unlike the KYB the rear does not kick up or have the rear jump about even with the correct spring like the KYB. I suspect your rear end is jumping up? and that sach shock will not be helping you. Try dialling in some big numbers to slow the rebound if the bike becomes more stable and the rear stops lifting on big jumps or whoops you'll need to consider a better rear shock. The front forks are good its that Sach shock and you can most probably tell i'm not a fan of Sach because i had one on my xlite 310. i run about a 40-45mm static and 100mm rider. The TE and TC run the same frames/chassis so our suspension will never be that different. Keep me posted with the rebound and sag settings. Finally i only preload the rear spring by between 5-8mm and any more i'd look to change the spring.

Springs set the initial setting (sag) for forks & shocks ... The valving controls the forks and shocks action ... Clickers fine tune their action ... If all you have is the clickers ... Don't be afraid to open or close them ...

But don't make a major change and attempt a triple first thing ... The suspension plays a big role in coming off a jump face as you probably already know....

Mine is a different bike, but I run some clickers wide open ... This just causes more oil to bypass the valves ...

The tc runs a kayaba rear shock too. Same set up. I am leaning toward having the shock lowered 4mm at the shaft and running the forks 10mm um in the triple clamps. Jumping isn't really the issue. The bike feels very stink buggy and covering takes a lot of body english.

Hi there,
Having the same issues with my '11 TC449. trying to find the suspension setup which works best. For me I felt the bike was very unstable on uneven ground and wanted to slide the front a lot (like washing out the front). I went with the 10mm front fork raise and used racetechs recommended settings. FC 12 out, FR 12out, RC 12 / HI 1.5 out, RR 20 out.

BUT, My shock preload is about 7mm thats where I get confused.
On my other bikes preload is a measure of threads showing from the top of the shock, on my TC the spring is fully unwound with the nut about 25 mm from the top. So basically I threaded the nut down until the spring was seated and used that as my starting point. Anybody else can confirm is this is normal??

Thanks

HAVING BIG PROBLEMS WITH HARSH RIDE ON ROCKS AND TIGHT TREES ON 2011 TCX 449. I AM 200 POUNDS,COMPRESSION DAMPING SET AT ZERO. I KNOW ITS NOT THE IDEAL WOODS BIKE. ANY FIXES FOR LESS THAN A $1000.

Hey lads we all ride different terrain but here goes. 2011 TC, 198 lbs, average ability, riding sandy trail ,whoops etc. etc Only ever raced twice, Finke desert race, which is where we start.
Standard suspension front and rear, couldn't get front to work properly, way to harsh, kept on backing the compression off until basically fully backed out and still too harsh. Could never get the front end to bottom out at all even though fully backed off. Extremely harsh over square edge bumps .....Rear, in a few clicks on the compression and in on the re-bound to slow the arse end down, was better but still not good......
Sent suspension too, Bike Tune in Adelaide (not that, that will help you guys out), basically front fork spring rate was correct, what he found apparently was that the top chamber had overfilled making the fork action almost supercross firm, they apparently bleed off by bottoming out ? but, I could never get them to bottom so didn't happen....Also the original valving and shims are also on the firmer side of the equation which didn't help either--------Can't give you full details but stripped, cleaned re-oiled and softened the shim stacks ? to make the initial hit more compliant but then getting stiffer to soak up bigger whoops ?? Sorry lads not a suspension tuner.....

Rear spring rate too soft, went up to a 5.8 spring......Revalved, put a spacer in to lower rear ride height as always felt as though you were hitting whoops arse end up, not good...re-gased, apparently higher psi or equivalent ! After install could only get race sag to 98mm instead of 110 and static sag was 42 instead of the low 30's....Thought the spring rate was 1 rate to hard, but no time to change....Anyway the overall result was awesome, it transformed the bikes stability immensly, the lower ride height at the rear felt way better in the whoops and the more compliant initial stroke of the forks on square edges was to say the least fantastic, no more blistered up hands...The settings that he set the clickers at was pretty close to what I ended up using, With out my book here i THINK I softened both the front and rear compression a couple of clicks and slowed down the rear damping 2 clicks. Pretty close to what he envisaged....Oh the rear spring apparently should always have two full turns of compression on at a minimum on the spring.......I havn't been able to try to adjust anymore as unfortunately my bike detonated during the race but, thats another story....

Hope this makes sense, it does to me =)

Im running a set of stock tc forks on in my te. Im also no suspension expert. What i have been told by a suspension expert is if the compression is to stiff/slow drain out swome oil from the chamber. 10cc at a time and its a lot easier then strippiing the forks just drain it out of the air bleed screw on the gtop of the fork.

Not motocross but I sent my txc449 to Zipty racing and they are putting a 6.1 rear and .49-.50's in front. I am 6'4" and 200lbs. Asked for an enduro/hare scramble setting. Ill get it back next week I hope.

Hey mate, keep us posted when you get your suspenders back, let me know how you get on with the race sag and static sag etc. My tuner originally quoted me a 6 rear spring but after some research he recomended the 5.8. As stated above, I couldn't set the correct sags etc which would indicate an over stiff spring rating ?? Either way the bike was way better but, always room to improve hey. Will check mine again when bike running to see if the suspension bedded in during the race.....The spacer installed in the shock was awesome as far as dropping the rear ride height (lowered approx 20mm), the bike always felt as if it was arse end up and was awkward when hitting a series of whoops as you felt like you were hitting them nose first all the time. Its a good indication if when you are happy with your set up that the clickers are set somewhere not far from the middle setting and race and static sags are good, that way you still have room to move softer or harder with compression and rebound

Ill let ya know how it is. I sent it to Zipty because he probably has the most experience with it. He is shortening shock also.

I'm hoping that there are a few people still racing the TC and resurrecting this thread helps not only myself but others. Finally gave up on setting the bike up myself and went to a local reputable suspension guy today. I've never been able to turn this bike the way I think it should. Going out tomorrow with a whole new setting selection at both ends and running 115 mm of race sag and fork tubes up 10mm. Wish me luck.

Racing my TC tomorrow, went for the softer settings. First race after a 30 year break. We will see