Motoplat setting the ignition

I am timing the ignition on my 420 Auto with internal magnet Motoplat and lacking a manual to check this is what I have done.
1. locate rotor on key way and torque up
2. Locate stator and lightly tighten screws
3 Set engine to TDC
4 Turned engine back to ignition point (2.5 mm before TDC)
5 Move stator round till mark on rotor lines up with mark on the rotor
6 Tighten stator screws

Before I start kicking and break something have I done the job correctly, all advise and knowledge gratefully received.

Sounds about right Steve.

to prevent breakage retard it some
I run 1.9 on my 430's and 500's

yup, i would also advise against running full advance spec unless you "really" want max bottom end and throttle response..

Thanks, the manuals I had saved to my computer only have the outside flywheel information where you use a pin. I don't believe I have ever seen the setting up of the internal rotor in the manuals that are no longer there.

Backed the timing back a bit to 2mm no need to get too carried away!!

Hay mate scatching my head here I'm looking at the ignition on my 500 same as yours
Did you line the marks up on the mag to the stator advance line
I have a dial indicater set at 2.1 bftdc and not enough adjustment
It's doing my head in your help would be great
Cheers cheko

Yes, rotor wound back to about 1.8 / 2.0 mm BTDC, stator then moved to line marks up. Motor starts without kick back and runs well, only a quick blast round the field though. How much more movement do you need? Advanced or retarded?

To get it at 2.1mm BTDC it has to go back heaps

Where it's at now it's a bit hard to start and iit seams to be a TDC
The black texter marks on the case and stator are how it is now
The pic above is where 2.1 is with out moving the stator

on the internal, dont you line up the mark on the flywheel and the mark on the stator?

When the lines line up its on TDC
There is not enough movement in the stator plate to move it around to line it up

ok, gotcha..was just making sure when you mentioned the case..
so you are arent able to get the marks to line up when the engine is at your desired 2.1 btdc? odd issue, i wonder if the piston is aftermarket and a different dome shape??

Hmm now you got me a thinking
Tried to start it this arvo kick kick kick cough ten times get a new plug tomorrow and try again
Might wip the head off and have a look at the piston give the timing the once over with the head off
If I'm using a dial indicater piston shape shouldn't really matter wouldn't you think

Piston shape will not matter as TDC is TDC regardless.

i guess it shouldnt matter since you are re-zeroing the gauge at top dead then measuring advance..
dumb question..you are measuring advance and not retarding right?

Direction is everything!

Put a new plug in this arvo br7 from a br9 starts a bit better get some front cogs next week I'll leave the timing were it is it's not kicking back fiddle with the jetting rock the stater a bit if I have to
Old mate that bought my 86 250 of me give me a contact of an old husky guru that live 30 mins away I'll call on him if need be
I was trying for 2.1 BTDC the rota lines up with the stator a TDC
I'm kinda thinkin the key way might have sheard and maybe someone has just made it work
I'll wip the rota off and have a look

i had a thought...(smelled something burning)..
dug a spare internal motoplat out..there are two sets of slotted screws to adjust these..
one set holds the stator to adapter plate...
another set holds adapter plate to case..
cheko, you have both sets of these screws maxed out and still cant get the 2 hash marks to line up and desired btdc mm setting?

The way the stator mounts to the plate there is no movement the two screws at the front bolt up tight to the ends of the slots
Trying to find rotor puller it's in the organised mess somewhere I have 3 can only find the one I don't need