250-500cc my mate has a hankering for a hydraulic clutch on his 300, I reckon...

2011 wr300. Any insight or experience is appreciated.

Cheers!!

a motion pro cable properly routed and lubed is nice
there are hydraulic kits, but they are that, kits
you are essentially taking motion and making it fluid then returning it to motion
the true hydraulic clutches are slightly better but for the money you could buy a new cable every year

Properly adjusting the pushrod at the clutch basket so that the arm/lever at the engine has the correct geometry (disengages across 90 degrees to cable) makes more difference than a cable upgrade but the Motion Pro cable does help.

I had the hebo/AJP on my 250. Took it off and went with the MP cable. If you want to play with it you can have it cheap. 2 masters 1 slave, extra o-rings. To be honest, I think the cable is an easier pull.

Rekluse exp 3.0 and you will never need touch the clutch lever again!

My 2004 ktm 250 with a hydro clutch had just a slightly harder clutch pull with less feel than my 2014 husky wr300 did new.

I went to the Rekluse a few months after I bought it and haven't looked back!

my magura hymec set up is pretty sweet.

I recently purchased the pro taper profile clutch perch assembly and it made a huge difference. That and a lubed up motion pro cable like stated above is almost as good if not better than the hydraulic clutch on my 14 fc450

If he's just looking for an easier pull on the lever, maybe he should learn to use 1 or 2 or 3 fingers on the clutch when riding so that the work is distributed across different muscles ... I use any combination of 3 fingers at any time when riding, depending on whatever ... The clutch lever is what I play with all day long when riding ... It's like playing sweet music on a guitar .. Coming out of a corner and feathering correctly to a high degree, is what I'm looking for in both engine sound and the hook-up feel ... I might have watched too much dirtbike racing? (RV2 did a pass on Nagl earlier this yr in EU and the clutch-hogging sound captured on VID was just too cool)

The juice clutches are much easier to feather when riding it seems ...Mine feel exactly the same on 999 out of a 1000 pulls .... Always easy to find the sweet spot to keep the rearwheel hooked and the RPMs going ... The manual clutch on my WR250 is a little harder to feather correctly ... As many have stated above, cable routing and keeping it lubed helps greatly there, but the feathering still takes more precise finger work ...And that's OK as seat-time is all that is needed there.

If he's got the duckies, stick the juice clutch on there but keep the cable so he can revert back if needed ...

Same here!!