125-200cc my wre is dead! help!

I realised my battery was not charging so I recharged my battery and rode my bike, then the side light bulb blew so I disconnected the two wires leading to the bulb and left them exposed inside the headlight area, with the tips of the wires exposed. The bike was fine, the main beam and high beam worked fine. I then pushed the main light switch and suddenly the engine completely died/ shut down. I pushed the bike home and got some new fuses. I changed the two fuses underneath the seat, one is a 3amp, the other is a 10amp. Then I opened up a little case connected by two more wires, and inside there was a 15amp fuse. I changed all these for new ones and the bike's powervalve came on when I turned the key[ which it stopped doing months ago]. The bike felt fine to ride, I replaced the sidelight bulb and wiring, the powervalve was certainly now working as at low revs it felt much more torquey. Then I pushed the main beam headlight again, and the engine died. I turned the ignition off, pushed the light switch into sidelight beam, then kicked it over and it fired. But every time I tried to push main beam or high beam, the engine died. I got back home, and when I turned the key sometimes the powervalve would click on and off a little, sometimes just the sidelight bulb would work, sometimes neither would come on. I changed all fuses again and now there is no life in the bike at all, even with another full charged battery. Is there a fuse I cannot see that I might have blown by riding the bike with the sidelight bulb wires exposed? I can only see the fuses underneath the seat. The pictures are of the 3amp and ten amp fuse, the other is the 15 amp fuse inside the box

You need to figure out what all that crap is connected to. Popping and replacing fuses won't get you anywhere.

It sounds like you have a short somewhere in the headlight wiring, which is why you blow fuses when you turn it on. Once the fuses are blown, the bike won't run because there isn't any power.

This sounds like hokey wiring, as the headlight probably should be isolated from the ignition power (so you can blow a headlight fuse and still run), but who knows. It's obviously been tinkered with.

Get a stock wiring diagram and see if it matches your bike. If/where it doesn't, start drawing out what the bike has on it.

yup check out the switch on the bars may have got bits of copper from turn signal shorting highbeam out?
but it sounds like your problem is highbeam take the lamp off and if nothings suspect look further down the wiring, i know the regulator has the loom close on my 360 and in an off pinched the insulation from a few wires.

keep tracking the wires till something turns up is all i can say.

oh i had a kmx where the thing would die every now and then turned out some one had looped the wires to the kill switch together and taped them together every now and then jingled too close and killed the engine!

ok thanks all, I've bought a new switch in case it's that, but since electrics baffle me the bike is being fixed by someone else soon. Rather than starting a new thread though, when the bike is fixed, is it worth replacing the reed valves? I've seen you can get v force three which supposedly increases the amount of air and therefore more power as it gets more in to mix with fuel, but I'm sure this would require re jetting. Everyone on the web seems to have difference of opinion on whether you need to. Is it worth getting this and putting it on or are they just the same as standard reeds and everyone thinks they get more power but they would get the same result if they just replaced reeds with standard units?

I personally dont believe the hype, some say best mod
Others say no difference.
If you look at your reed cage and all the petals are
Shutting properly and no signs of freying or sharp bits on them
I would leave it and get the bike running.

I would say judge the v force reeds as oem equivilent not a
Guaranteed hop up