New member Mikuni baseline jetting 76 360WR

Hi all new to Huskies always wanted one now I got a 1976 360 WR. Couple of questions please explain MK vs ML, cross country vs plain WR, and what is GP designation.

Took only one afternoon to get the bike ship shape and running, came with a Mik carb fitted, any baseline suggestions for air screw, jets? Won't open up all the way.

TIA

I have a friend that has a 76 360WR. His came with a Gurtner carb. He swapped it for a new 38mm Mikuni. I gave him the jetting I use in my 78 390, and it started first kick.
I think he has now leaned it off on the needle and fitted a #40 pilot. I can ask him what else he has changed from the settings I gave him if you want.

Small world. Mk has shorter rear travel and is the years 72-74. Ml are the later longer travel late 70's frames like you have. I think wr wide ratio and cross country are the same. Once again glad to see that bike found a good home. Thanks again from Kansas City.

Check out my daughters 72 wr250 mk

Grouty,
Please share the jetting you gave him for your 78 390.
Thanks, Ron

Thanks In Advance. New Mik VM38-9 coming may be a bit long 116 mm vs 96 mm on the bike, but I'll wedge it in. Just need basics and I can tune from there. Needle clip position, Main jet, air screw turns etc.. comes with 330 main jet I also have a 410 from the old catb.

My old 1976 360 WR was outfitted with a 36mm Mikuni with following specs:

Main: 380
Needle Jet 159Q8
Jet Needle 6DH2
Slide 3.0
Pilot Jet 40
Clip in the middle location.

It was set up for sea level and the damn thing was truly a "ROCKET" Sold it to buddy and the thing is still faster then Hedes..!! It's a two Kicker to boot!

Just had a call from my friend.
His 360WR Mikuni 38 is as follows -
Needle J86DP1 (Q8)
Main 430
Pilot #45
Clip 4th from top
Slide #2
Air screw is 1-1/2 turns out (idles great)

The ignition was set at 3.02mm before TDC (26.6mm on flywheel)
With this set up it starts first kick hot or cold. Revs out nice and pulls like a train. No gloop in the exhaust either.
This bike lives just above sea level. So I would guess anything from 200ft to 1500 ft ASL.

All I would say, is that whatever jetting you decide to use, make sure you check the mixture as you go. Plug chops are ideal. If you are really posh and have the facilities use a rolling road.

Thank you very much,

Here is where I am at with the few pieces I had laying around.
NJ Q8
Needle DH3 But I have a DP1
Main 410
pilot 45
clip 4th from top
Slide 2.5 Dremmeled out to 3.0
Air screw is at 3 (To far out)

But the magic is the air jet 2.0 or take out completely? The carb I bought had ugggh .5 no wonder it didnt get any air in pilot circuit. May be able to go down to a 35 pilot and screw in air screw.

Great info on the timing isnt that stock?

So here is my $105 ebay solution to Sudco's $225 carb without there help but with lots of reading and help from many generous people (probably will be $135 by the time you rejet unless you have parts laying around).
1976 360 WR Stock configuration (Greensboro, NC 700-900ft above sea level 60 degrees)

Stock VM38-9 $94.00 to $105 shipping included
Main Jet = 330
Needle = DP1
Needle Jet = Q2
Pilot Jet = 35
Clip position= middle
Air Jet = .5 (on the air filter side and you need a jewelers flat head screw driver to remove, the bike will hardly run with this in and some people dont mention it)
Slide = 2.5

Modified
Main Jet = 410
Needle = DH3
Needle Jet = Q8
Pilot Jet = 45 (3 turns on air screw could maybe go down to 35 or 40 or smaller air jet)
Clip position= 4th down
Air Jet = 2.0 (maybe remove completely if using 35 pilot)
Slide = Dremmeled out to 3.0 approx. (Thanks George)

Runs very good and pulls the wheel in every gear at almost any speed. Still cant kick start unless warm but I think thats a Motoplat issue and heck thats what Son's are for (push starting when cold). And all my neighbors cheered when I shut it off for the last time.

Good that you are making progress. 35-40 on the pilot jet looks good for starting. You might recheck you timing to try and obtain easier starting. How does you plug look? Enjoy it, the 360 is a quick moto mover!

I spoke with Vance Smith at Motoplat Repair. He told me to break the center electrode out of a spark plug and check for spark. If you can see spark jumping to the body of the plug the motoplat is good and rebuilding won't improve the spark or starting.

Thats funny I spoke to him today as well. He said something similar like open up the gap 4 times wider and see if it arcs. Must be return emails and phone call day.

Ron, thanks for the spark plug tip, tip (pun intended!). I've got a '73 Penton with what I believe is a weak Motoplat. Going to break a plug tomorrow and will report back. Thanks!

@ Mick K. I too am building a 76 360 and good to see yours is going great!
question...did you mean by a bit long the measurment from intake inlet to exit side of carb? how did you "wedge it in"? I've got a 36 MIK that i had to "adapt" that is SOOO much longer than the gurtner that I'm considering milling from each end of the carb. I'm also trying to figure out if the timing is correct. any help?
thanks!

Hey Sweenster. Remove the air box, put carb on intake boot (Cylinder side) slide airbox boot over carb, slide airbox back in and the carb will slide partially into the box, slip boot over box and carb, tighten her up and your good to go. Hardest part is one nut that holds the airbox in is behind exhaust pipe.

I see it's been 5 years since your last post but are you still riding your 76 360WR? Had some jetting questions for ya?

I have a 1976 360WR with a 38mm (measures 37.68mm) Mikuni VM carb. Here is what's in it
Main Jet 360
Pilot 45
Needle Jet Q8
Jet Needle 6DH3
Slide 2.0
Air 2.0

A new MZB ign. timed at 3.02mm BFTDC. Starts great and runs great. Thanks to everyone for the help getting me there.