New Skid Plate Install Suggestions...

Just got a new skid plate from my local dealer. I don't see a brand name on it but it is a pretty good looking piece. Nothing fancy, but nice welds and good thickness.

I am headed to the hardware store tomorrow and wanted to know if anyone has any suggestions on mounting it on my 2009 TE 310. It came with 4 bolts (chrome steel flange hex head). No washers, no bushings, no spacers, nothing else.

I am planning on installing it this weekend, using a bit of locktite and the stock bolts. However, I am a bit worried about vibration and the bold heads getting rounded off as I bash the heck out of it. I would hate to need to take it off in the field and find the bold heads sripped too badly to remove it.

Included look like this:


Any suggestions? Maybe switch to a socket bolt like below? Looks a bit more protected...


Add nylon washers for vibration/noise dampening?

Thanks in advance,
-Sean

Just remember that you usually need to remove the plate to change the oil. I find that button head allens strip out with a lot of use. On my aluminum plate the bolt areas are recessed. I stuck with the hex bolts

http://gallery.me.com/glangston1#100024

If you zoom in a little on the 4th picture you'll see the head of the bolts more clearly. They look like yours but have a little more built-in washer. The flex of the aluminum puts tension on the bolt and these seem to stay in pretty well without loc-tite. When I've seen George re-install these I don't think I see him putting loc-tite on them, not that I think it would be a bad idea.

If the nuts are staked or swagged you won't need loc-tite. Make sure the bolts are not too long as to poke case if you slam on a hi-center. Don't use (lock) washers. Lube bolts going on and dab grease on the nuts with a chop-stick post install to seal them and keep muck out that causes seisure. Use hi-grade hardware.

I like to insulate my plates/clamps from the frame with inner tube, butyl 20mil pipe tape etc. I'll also hole saw a drain hole if there is none/it's off center.

Added "lock" to "washers".

Forgot same, sorry guys....

There is no recess for the bolts on my plate (I must get down to up-tite one of these days).

I have not checked the bike, but I assumed that the mounting holes on the frame are threaded. Are they not? If not, then I assume I need to get some nylock nuts. This should make locktite unnecessary.

The advice on too long bolts is well taken. I would have cut them down with a hack saw if they stuck up too much, but I think I will test fit and just buy the appropriate length.

The button heads will be the way I go. I will replace them as they get ragged, but the hole for the oil drain looks to be large enough that I won't need to remove it often (knocking on wood).

I like the idea of butyl tape and will pick some up. Might even run a few strips down the inside of the plate to dull the reflection of engine noise. Use the old Xacto to cut the tape away from the holes in the plate.

Thanks again...

Rear X-brace has clip-on nuts so no worries there.
Some wiggle room for same too.

Dimples are nice but not mandatory.

Use flat washers (if nec).

I'm modifying a Moose plate from a '08 125 for my '09 125 right now...it's pretty close as was but... what a PIA. I think I've done 300 situps mocking up then bending and grinding, etc.
Wish I had a break and an English wheel. And a welder!

i always use standard hex bolts and just monitor them for beating, its just part of my post ride walk around torque inspection. when they take hits replace them, mine take lots of hits and get beat up then just throw on new ones.

Test fit this morning. I see the clip on nut situation might make locktite a moot issue.

Stock bolts (button hex) are too short with the thicker plate. The bolts that were included with the plate are too long(and the flange on the heads uncomfortably too small). Off to the hardware store. I will get the right length with the biggest head possible. Dispite the fact that the stock ones are button head hex, I am now indifferent as to the type.

Thanks for the advice everyone.

-Sean

Keep in mind that although hex flange bolts will take more of a surface beating, you can still get them off in the field/(or at home) with a vice grip. The button head bolts are nice but can give you a lot of grief when the hex hole gets jammed full of crap, or worse- the top part of the radius gets mashed(by a rock) partway into the hex hole, making it impossible to insert an Allen key into the hole. Good luck dealing with that out in the field.