250-500cc New WR250

Hi guys im a new member and Just bought a new wr250 from Heinens in MN. I line in KY and should recieve the bike in about a week, I have rode KTM 200 and 300 for the last 10 years. I wanted to try a Husqvarna and this will be my first one. I ride eastern single track and fire roads mostly. Any suggestions about setting up the WR?

Welcome to the site. For starters I would make sure you've got the correct suspension springs for your weight. I'd keep an eye on your jetting if you are going to be riding in the winter as well.

What year is it? If it has the 50mm Zokes make sure as soon as you break in the forks on your 1st oil change clean the hard assembly grease from around the valving.

Trim the plastic ribs off the mud guard so it doesn't sear your swingarm.

The stock front tire is not to bad but the rear is terrible.

Put a dab of dielectric grease on the spark plug boot and you will not have moisture or grounding issues that some complain about (usually blaming the boot). + it makes it easy to remove when checking the plug during jetting process.

Re-grease suspension linkage with waterproof grease to replace the white lithium grease the the factory uses. (I use the bluish green marine grease)

My weight is 155lbs and the WR is a 2011 model.

all what lankydoug said(especially the shock protector 'ribs'-crap idea mine nearly wore a hole in me swingarm & rear tyre is poo) and swingarm/headset bearings. blue loctite kickstart, engine mounts, subframe, shifter(again poo) & rear sprocket bolts too! constantly check tightness of these especially main swingarm thru bolt(the big one thru the cases-should be FT!). i found a 14T front sprocket(48T rear) worked better than 13/48 for me-bit more top speed for transport sections & widens gearbox a bit, 3rd gear gets a workout. cheapa to change than rear sprocket too. suspension, protection then go smash that thing til ya run outa juice!

Thanks for the tip about the trimming the mudflap. I just checked mine. I've got two big notches in the swingarm!

Three more areas that will form wear marks (from seat).. See areas marked with " X X X "

poxy idea eh!

My '10 wr250 needed very little. I had Drew Smith do the suspension because it does not work well in rocks and roots in New England. I put on a skidplate and handguards. I set the jetting to "racing use only" spec in the manual (40 pilot, 430 main, 4.0 slide, GAY needle on middle clip). I switched to full synthetic oil in the gearbox because with conventional I had enough clutch drag it would stall in tight sections.

Just did the top end and it looks sweet after 90 hrs. Still good crosshatching on the cylinder. Scraped off the little bit of carbon on the powervalve and should be good to go.

My bearings came well greased from the factory but it's nice to have the zerks on the linkage. No excuse not to grease them. Yes, the back tire sucks.

Where do you live in KY....my buddy with a 09 WR300 lives in Georgetown and I live in Owenton....but have friends all around the state...

I'm 170 , with a 09 , I set the suspension soft, rejetted, and went the other way - 12T front sprocket. we run a lot of tight single track, muddy and slick , also tires suck , perilli MT16 for rear . skid plate bark busters , and goin with a FMF gnarly W| protector , I've bashed up my stock pipe pretty good this year...

WER did my fork on my 09, added a Rekluse Pro, and a Dunlop trials tire. Cheater bike and the best woods bike I've set up. At 58 yrs. old I've had quite a few, maybe 50 bikes at least. Jet it correctly and you will have more low end than you will ever believe. Super easy bike to win on.

Im in Elizabethtown,Ky

Hi Guys Ive went throught the bike and used locktight on the fastners. It came on a truck last Friday, jetting is way off it wont idle. I havent recieved the paperwork for the bike and am wondering if extra jets will come with it. What jetting are you guys using here in Ky? Should I just buy the Keihin and install it.

Most bikes come with the idle turned all the way out. Try turning your idle screw in, that should do it for you.

I will set the idle screw up Monday morning and see what happens. My elevation is 700 feet above sea level.

Idle screw was turned out, I adjusted and its idling good and I increaded the pilot jet size.

I have the same bike and I love it. All good information listed here. The only thing I would double check is jetting. Some of the 11's were shipped with a very lean jetting spec. For those affected, a bulletin was sent to dealers and and then a jet kit that includes several jets and a different slide. For the 250 the part number of this free kit is 8000H1011. Here's what the bulletin recommends: 430 Main, 40 pilot, 6BFY43-74 needle, 4.0 slide, 80 Starter air jet (choke), and air screw 1.5 turns out. If you have this or something pretty close (dealer may have made some adjustments for your area) you're probably ready to go. If it's not, call your dealer and get the kit before you ride it. It could be very lean. I've made some slight adjustments to this spec and it runs great in So Cal. Enjoy.

Thanks for the information,my bike had a 17.5 pilot in it so im assuming I have the lean jetting, I have called the dealer and im waiting on a response from them. I drilled out a extra pilot jet I had to .6mm and the air screw is turned out one turn and the bike idles and accepts full throttle good without hestitation. Im hoping the dealer will go ahead and send me the jet kit without any problems.

You shouldn't ever attempt to 'make' your own pilot jet as you have no idea how this relates to correct size jets. They come manufactured with very tight tolerances and minimal changes to the hole dia make vast differences to how the bike will run.
Hopefully you have drilled something that will make it rich rather than undersize and seizing your motor! If you haven't already run the bike throw your drilled jet in the bin and get the correct part. Jets are very cheap even if your dealer doesn't send you them FOC.