250-500cc New WR300 On The Way

Hi all, newbie here!
Just put down a deposit on a new '09 WR300 smoker at Gateway Cycles in Mt. Sterling, KY....(the sponsors of Jeff Stoess I just found out). This is my very first Husky, and I don't know much about them. I'm buying it because I love 2 strokes, and if Husky's going to make a 300, then I'm going to support that by buying one! I've always had KTM smokers, and I know their every quirk, but I was wondering if anyone could educate me a bit on Husqvarna.
Is there anything I should watch out for? KTMs need to be re-greased right outta the box. The steering head and swingarm pivot bearings come with just a smear of vaseline looking stuff on them. KTM kickstand bolts snapping off have been an issue, the PV linkage has a pin that can fall out...(needs tack welded), the stock wheel spacers wear out quickly and let grit into your wheel bearings...(need E-Rider ones), they can leak oil around the countershaft if you use an aftermarket CS sprocket that is too thin, the kicker can rub a bad spot up under the gas tank, the thermostat can dig into your radiator, the shifter and kicker bolts vibrate out, the oil level check plug is easily stripped, ect. ect......
You know, it doesn't make 'em junk,...it's just stuff you need to address.
Are there things like that I need to know of about my new Husky?
How about the jetting, do you usually need to rejet 'em? Does Husqvarna have it's own line of accessory parts like KTM's Hard Equipment line? I definitely need a skid plate for those Hatfield~McCoy "baby head" rocks. Probably rad guards too.
Why is the chain on the wrong side? Are stock Husky seats rock hard like KTM's? Any WR250 owners here? What kind of 2 stroke oil do they like? Is Amsoil Dominator okay?
Sorry for the babbling, I'm just excited. Can't believe I'm gonna own a Husky! If anyone has a minute to lay any wisdom on a newbie, I'd sure appreciate it.

Give the suspension a little time to break in as it can feel harsh when new. Give it time unless the spring rates are not right for you. The tank bolt inserts can spin on you. It is best to take all body panel bolts out and coat threads with Anti-seize and only tighten them lightly on the tank ones. The Kick Start nut tends to loosen up after some time so you may want to use some Blue lock-tite on that, medium strength. The Husky bearings are the same way as the KTM so it is a good idea to pack them with Waterproof grease. Once you get a couple of good rides on it tighten the spokes...I really can't think of anything else at this time. Please give us a ride report as soon as possible..!!! I really think once you get the suspension jetting to your liking you are going to be surprised at how well this bike holds up. Anyone else getting one out there?

Yeah, thats like the understatement of the decade. Husky has been making 2 stroke 250s since 1966, and the WR250 goes back to '71 if not earlier.

Longest running dirt bike in production, by far.


Congrats on getting that 300! I want one too.

Thanks guys! I really appreciate the replys. I wonder, if one of those tank bolt inserts did spin, if a guy could maybe glue it in with a dab of epoxy or superglue? On a KTM tank, instead of metal inserts there's just a thick plastic well, or stub molded in that protrudes into the tank about 1/2". Then the shroud bolts are actually very coarse thread sheet metal screws that just sink in and bite into the plastic. You can strip out the well though, or snag a shroud on a sapling tree or something and just rip the screw out.

I'll shoot some pics of it the day I pick it up for sure, but it may be a little while before I get to the woods with it. It's stinkin' cold here now, and I want to wheel her down into the nice warm basement and grease it, and set the sag, and get my protection stuff on it. I e-mailed James Dean of JD Jetting. He doesn't have a jet kit for the WR300 yet,...but guess what,...I may actually be able to help him develop one! He doesn't know what comes stock in the carb yet, and I might be the first one to be able to tell him.

When I break it in, should I "heat cycle" it? The common belief among the KTM smoker crowd is that you should warm it up to operating temperature, then let it cool down to ambient temp 3 times while just sitting on the stand, under no load, before you even ride it. Then just follow the common sense/owner's manual routine. Anyone ever heard of doing that? I did it on both my Katooms just because the KTMtalkers said to, but I've no idea if that actually did anything.

Thanks again guys! Great forum board,...lucky I found it. Man am I stoked!

If you first get it and lube the tank bolts I doubt you will have a problem. I am pretty sure your dealer installs those shrouds as well so you may mention to them to be easy on them. Worry about getting the bike first but the fix to them is pretty easy. There is a post here or on TT that talks about it. Yours has the 8mm head so you just use a drill with a socket on the end, you have to turn it fast enough to melt the plastic to pull the insert out. Then use epoxy to re-install the insert making sure the threads are good as well as the bolt. I think the bike will have a actual new style Mikuni wiith some odd jetting sizes, at least that is what the '09 WR 125 is listed with. Some of us on the older 250's have had good luck with a Keihn PWK 38 air striker compared to the older Mikuni, seems easier to jet. Hopefully with Glenn Kearney riding one next year someone will come out with a carbon fiber pipe guard, the left side is easy to wack into the coolant hose. I heat cycle my new bikes but don't take it to a extreme.

Thanks raisrx251, Yeah you're right, I won't borrow trouble with those inserts,...I'll anti-seize 'em. And while I'm at it, the chain adjuster bolts too. Those corrode and lock up on KTMs.

My '06 300 XCW has a Keihin PWK 38 on it,...it dialed in nicely for me, I like those too.

What kind of range do you suppose a 300 will get out of that 2.5 gal tank, say clipping along on two track at a fairly brisk pace? I'm assuming your WR250 has the same tank,...can you do say 60 mi. if you're not doing a lot of technical stuff and tight singletrack?

I heat cycle a new/fresh engine. I'm not convinced it helps but I'm even less convinced it causes any harm.

I never experienced any of the mentioned problems like shroud bolts turning, loose kick start nut etc.

The few things I discovered on my '07 when new was the banjo bolt on the rear caliper came loose causing an abrupt end to rear brakes
My front forks came with extra oil already installed and the steering head bearings were not greased enough for me.

I also recommend checking that the clutch cable is properly seated at the engine and that the clip link is installed correctly on the chain.

I really prefer to take my new bikes and never seize the bolts, check the grease in the linkage etc. before I ride them. I can never get the bike as clean as new and working on it is so much nicer. I even remove the spoke nipples and apply never seize to every spoke.

"I heat cycle a new/fresh engine. I'm not convinced it helps but I'm even less convinced it causes any harm."

That pretty much sums up exactly how I feel about that too.



"I even remove the spoke nipples and apply never seize to every spoke."


I can't claim that,...but I do put my spoke nipple wrench on 'em and give 'em all a quarter turn twist each way and back every now and then.

A couple more things to add: Motor mount bolts have a habit of loosening. Rear sprocket as well. Loctite both.

That's the kind of stuff I was diggin' for,...Duely noted! Thanks man.

A few more things that I found after a year of hard riding.
- Kickstand flops around. To solve this I got a tether from a 06 KTM 450XC and routed it between the airbox and sub frame.
- Sub frame to frame lower mount bolts require loctite.
- Watch where clutch cable routes near the pipe.
Pipe mount cracked at rear brake reservoir. This was self induced due to the pipe getting bounced off of logs.
- Trip odometer worked for the first 200 km's. Its junk.
- Make sure gas cap seal is seated properly when installing gas cap or it will tear easily.
- Pin holes in my rad hoses. Don't know what would cause this.

Thats it for problems after one year of riding.

Have fun with the new bike.

....ooooh behave!

I wish someone would give my nipple's that much attention.

I'd be a much happier rider because of it!

The plastic flap that hangs down from the airbox and goes between the rear tire and swingarm – it will cut two holes in the swingarm eventually. Put some type of a guard in place.

The steerer tube has a slot cut in it (for euro steering lock). This will let water and gas right into your bearings. Plug this.

Fork oil is really high, like 80mm. Drop to 110 to 140. I have found that it is real easy to bind the forks with the lower clamp bolts. I only torque them to 13 pounds.

Stock spark plug cap is garbage. Replace with a NGK before it causes problems.

I would replace the Mikuni with a Keihin PWK

Ignition cover has a gap at the bottom to drain water. I seal it and remove the cover often to let it air out.

Ignition is not the strongest so make sure coil ground it clean and tight.

Keep an eye on the swingarm, lower shock, and front wheel bearings. I have had good luck with the others. I shoot some grease in the zirks after every wet ride just so I never have to service them.

Loctite rear sprocket bolts.

Loctite the both lower engine mounts and check them regularly.

The kick starter can get crud in it (under the rubber cover) and then not pivot out. I just kept it oiled all the time and never had this problem.

Put anti seize on the bolts that hold the side panels to the sub frame and don’t tighter too much.

Get one of those “cable lubers” so you can force oil through the clutch cable every once in a while.

Anti seize both axels.

Safety wire the pins that hold the brake pads in.

Okay great,...printing this out to use as a checklist. Amazing how much of this stuff is the same as on KTMs too. The mud flap that hangs down from the air box on a KTM rubs on the lower shock mount's heim bushing housing and grinds it away over time. E-rider makes a guard to prevent that: http://www.erider.ws/heim_housing_guard.htm .

I like to gear my bikes down a tad for the tighter eastern deep woods stuff around here so I don't abuse my clutch so much. If I drop a tooth on the CS will that cause the chain to eat into the swingarm slider plastic worse? Should I go up a couple teeth on the rear sprocket instead?

motox415,...I know you said your trip odo was fried, but do you have any idea how much range you can get out of a 2.5 gal tank?

Where do those cool skid plates with all the holes in 'em come from, like I always see on Huskys? Saw one the other day with the Husky logo cut into it on the front. Those may be just for 4 strokes too,...What's a good plate for the WR?

Thanks a lot guys!

This one looks like it would do rather nicely to me,.....
Will it fit the '09 300 as well?