Newbie Attempts 1976 175 Engine Rebuild - How Much $$ For New Gaskets, Seals, Bearings?

Lads - I'm attempting a rebuild of a '76 175 engine, and the subject line pretty much sums it up.

If I replace all gaskets, seals, and bearings, how much will I be spending? Just looking for ballpark estimates.

Want to avoid far-east bearings, but am open to any sensible cost-cutting ideas.

As always, TIA for any info. Binx

The best place to get quick price ideas is vintagehusky.com/parts

You can price everything you mentioned. Parts are quality and reasonably priced.

You may have to use 125cc prices to get an idea of the cost for your 175.

The 175 of that era is a 250 with a shorter stroke and smaller bore so it shares almost all gaskets, bearings and seals. However, I recommend not replacing any bearings (other than main bearings) unless they actually need to be replaced.

kartwheel & Crashaholic - I've heard people say that you might as well replace everything as long as you're going to the trouble of splitting the cases. Not necessary?

Do you recommend not replacing the bearings that don't need replacing for cost reasons alone? Or are there other reasons not to replace bearings that don't need replacing?

I'll check the vintagehusky site and tally up the $$. Thanks. Binx

The original bearings are of very very high quality and it is not easy today to be sure you are getting better bearings than Husky used, counterfeit Chinese bearings have absolutely flooded the market and many bearings who even the seller thinks are legitimate SKF or FAG bearings are Chinese fakes. If they are in good condition you are likely put in new bearings of lesser quality than what you have now. There is no good reason to replace those bearings if they are in spec, but most do it anyway. The transmission bearings, if they have stayed lubricated, are unlikely to need replacement, the main bearings are the ones most likely to need replacement but even those I personally dont replace unless they NEED to be replaced. I am in a distinct minority though, most people throw a bunch of new bearings at an engine no matter what.

You would have a very hard time finding good enough bearings to justify replacement unless they are actually failing(radial play). You have no guarantee you are getting authentic bearing now. The crank bearings are not the place to cut corners.

Here I go again.

I have much different opinion. I have personally taken the time to talk to many bearing manufacturers and their engineers. From SKF to ZKL and my only Japanese favorite
KOYO. I only use my old experience as a lead Quality Control inspector in gear manufacturer either as a reason to lend a bit of credibility about tranny rebuilds or as
crutch being so anal about this bearing stuff.

Engineering is so far more advanced. But their is also value engineering , which really is the lowest common denominator. Think china. This means the lowest quality steel, lowest standards of OC and engineering thats not what we are talking about. You get to choose because their is some integrity out there and great choices.

The steel and engineering of SKF is so much better today than 35 years ago. The outside design of the explorer series has been enhanced for less friction and more stability.
The cost is not much more than 16 to 18 a bearing if not less. You have options on the more expensive ignition side the expensive bearing This requires a maximum capacity (SKF has 26 balls now) at about $80 but you have another option. The ZKL makes them also ( theirs are about $24 to $28 dollars each and number of balls are 28 balls). These are not the old behind the iron curtain socialist made bearings, but very modern steel and factories that are the suppliers to the euro growth.
Make sure you use C3 style bearing for all the case replacements. Please note - I have not done a smaller bore husky yet so I don't know the bearing that are required

I would stay away from FAG. To many counterfeit units are produced. SKF I buy direct approved supplier that gets them from SKF direct, most units are USA or Swedish made. I have seen some Brazil made units but won't use them. Also the bigger bearing for SKF is made by MRC in Ohio. MRC is owned by SKF.
I see no reason to cut corners when you have so much time invested. It only takes just a couple hours to heat cases and install a new set. I would get the better gaskets from Halls also.
I would always choose spending just a bit more it not a bad investment. Oh the guys above are right if you install the wrong bearings.

Sorry I always get bit deep here.

Gary, the problem is not the quality of the bearings made today by legitimate manufacturers, the problem is Chinese copies are EVERYWHERE, even from main stream suppliers, and unless you get your bearing directly from SKF like you do there is absolutely NO way you can be sure it is a real SKF. Many times I buy bearings at Japanese bike dealerships because I know they are legitimate Koyo bearings. You know what sources to go through make sure you get genuine bearings, but most do not, so what they end up with is new bearings of MUCH lower quality than the 35 year old OE bearing already in their engine.

Even if you do get genuine bearings, I still dont see any reason to replace a perfectly good bearing.

double row main on a puny crank means it lasts forever!

Yes I know. The story on the Fag bearings suggested they were in the thousands all replaced in original packages.

Going to do some crazy experiments on a future engine bearings for fun in next engine build. They will be standard SKF but
with some treatments. Talked about with SKF guy Note the following 349 gear and the color change after being worked on all
for longevity. Note husky had a heat treat issue in 81 with dogs not lasting at all. And of all things no heat treatment on clutch ring gears in those years.

don't forget to check out Husqvarnaparts dotcom as well for prices and availability. email phil as he has lots of stuff not on the web

Before You get carried away pricing Gaskets and Bearings You should figure out how good are bad the expensive Parts are. Namely the Main cases and the Connecting Rod. The Magnesium Cases Rot out real easy if they get left with any moisture inside the bottom end. Same for the Con Rod. Expect to pay at lest $200 for a good set of Cases, and a new Con Rod is $350.

These things are quite simple and basic, kinda lulls you into thinking they're a cheap easy fix, well that depends on what you're starting with. Replacing just the mains and leaving the others is a false economy in my mind, i bought replacement bearings (except the mains) from an SKF branded supplier including the needle roller for $50. the mains i bought from John at vintage husky along with all my other engine parts as he had the dual rollers in the original style from SKF and he was cheaper than the SKF shop for their updated (different, can't remember why) version.
I also replaced my conrod, piston assembly small end bearing, cylinder studs, clutch plates, gaskets, seals and machine shop bills for the bore/hone and pressing the crankshaft apart/together.

It adds up, fast! Even doing all the disassembly, cleaning, painting and reassembly myself my engine rebuild has cost me about $1700 in parts, and i'm being conservative (my wife might read this) it's a pandoras box and once you start it you may as well do it right.

I've not come across "counterfeit" bearings that i know of, it wouldn't surprise me, everything else gets copied, but i generally find if i buy from my "local" bearing shop i get budget stuff like nachi, NTN etc, there's good margin in cheap bearings and they need to survive and make a living, and to be fair, most buy them for trolley wheels, trailer bearings and god knows what, not many are bought to go in an engine. when i need SKF, Timken, FAG, NHP etc i go to the genuine dealer for them, never had an issue and i've spent some serious money on NHP for various ducati engines over the years.