Hello ladies and gents! I recently bought a 2000 model TE 610 electric start with a right hand kicker. It was very very hard to start but when it did start it made a real nasty rattle noise and i noticed that the oil was all milky. I suspected it was a head gasket leak so i stripped it down, changed the base gasket, head gasket, all water pump seals and gaskets and adjusted the valve clearances. I also changed the cam chain but i put the old tensioner back. (Is there a manual one that fits?looks tight for space to me). When i put the bike together, it was really hard to get it past TDC with the kicker, but after i did it fired into life instantly but the same horrible rattle is still there! The new oil is still creamy but i didn't drain all the old oil out as i just wanted to see if it ran ok. It idles and revs perfectly (for a single at least). Any ideas what my rattle may be?
Could be anything from a low idle speed, a bent rod, broken woodruff key, clutch basket washer... as homerb suggested, best to post a video. A bunch of threads to check: http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/is-a-610-supposed-to-sound-like-this.82227/#post-554950 http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/te630-noise-when-idling.80784/ http://www.thumpertalk.com/topic/1008371-left-kick-te610-engine-clatter/
Sorry, didn't read properly. New camchain fitted. Possibly tensioner issue, or worn guides, or any number of things. Try to isolate what area the noise is coming from.
Hi Guys, Sorry for the late reply, I'm working away at the mo. I'm pretty sure the noise is coming from behind the clutch cover. Only issue is that I'm having a nightmare getting the bloody kickstart off. its properly stuck on the splines and in turn is stopping me from getting the clutch cover off. without having looked behind there, I'm guessing either something wrong with the mechanism or as you guys said the clutch washers! I plan to take off the kick start and its gears and put the cover back,,, start it up off the e-start, if it still sounds the same then its the clutch. is that crazy talk? I tried to post a video but not sure how to! sad case!
Right then, i finally managed to get the kickstart off. When i say "managed to take it off" i mean i cut it off with a grinder. I know, i know. Looking inside, it all looks pretty clean and the only obvious reason i can see for the noise i'm getting is the cog that you can see in the background of the pic has quite alot of play in it. What is it and i guess i would need to split the cases to sort that out? The clutch basket looks ok. There is some play in the cush drive springs but not alot. All the washers are still there. My next step is to put it all back together minus the kick start and see if the noise is any better. If not its either the clutch basket or that cog in the picture. Any advice greatfully accepted. :P
Hmmmm... I don't think there is any vibration but tbh i have never ridden it! Yet at least. When you say the woodruff key, do you mean the one on the end of the crank that slides into the stator? If so, that is fine. That cog you can see is the first cog on the output shaft of the gearbox. If i place my finger on top of it i can move the cog on the shaft by about 3mm. Just feels sloppy. I was wondering if someone has taken the gear shaft out at some point and reassembled it without a vital shim? Or maybe if that cog should run on a bearing and its collapsed maybe?
Do you mean this? It should be one of the two cogs which make up the first gear, indicated via the red arrow (pic taken from a more recent 610, but not mine): Yes, you should split the cases to replace it. Nevertheless, I doubt that it causes the noise. I don't remember whether mine has a lot of play, but consider that, when you shift, the gears slide along the countershaft, which looks like the one you can see here. There is only one cog, in our gearbox, which doesn't slide and it's the smallest one of the first gear: it's perfectly integral with the clutch shaft. So, probably the one in the background of your picture has some play in all the Husky 610s. This sounds more likely to me. Doesn't your bike have a counterbalance shaft? Maybe one of its woodruff keys is shattered.
Look at the witness marks on the kicker plate screw heads, the forward one indicates the clutch is moving around. The rear one shows wear also, from kick gear rubbing. No reason to take off the kicker to remove clutch cover. Later George
Well! Thanks for the tip JonDirt and Theo! The counterweight woodruff key will definitely be the next thing i will check! I'll pretty much do anything to avoid splitting the cases after having changed everything from the base gasket up already! I have some xmas holidays so i should get a chance to have some quality time with the Husky. I would so happy if that fixes it! If not.... I will strip it down and feed it to my shredder!
Up Tite George... You know I hadn't even noticed that! So would you say the kick starter gear is running all the time? Is it meant to? And possibly too close to the kicker plate? Would that be a collapsed bearing or maybe a washer missing? Lots of questions! I also thought you could take the casing off without removing the kickstarter but it would NOT Come off, no matter how big a hammer i used. But seriously, the kickstart cog is behind the clutch and so wouldn't come.
When the bike is running pull in the clutch lever, does the noise go away or get better ? There is a certain amount of clutch noise on those bikes that is normal.
Hello people! Happy new year and all that! I did reply over Christmas but for some reason the posts are still awaiting approval by the moderator. I think given the time of year it's understandable. I found out what the noise was. Behind the clutch basket is a shaft that goes through the idler gear from the kickstart gear. The shaft had pulled out of the casing by about 5mm and was making contact with the back of the basket. I have now tapped it back and hopefully that should be the noise sorted. I just hope that it won't work its way out again. I have a new problem now though!! The bike won't bloody start now!! When i kick it, it will kick maybe twice fine but then the third or so will just give a massive kick back and some blue smoke from the airbox. The only thing i can think i may have done is that when i took the balancer sprocket off i forgot to take note of where it was. Is it possible that i,ve put the balance sprocket back on the wrong way / out of sync and its affected the timing? I have checked the timing marks and they are all spot on. I have also used a straw in the plug hole and its definitely TDC. It just feels as though the timing is off and its trying to fire at the wrong time. I even took the stator off to check the woodruff key and that is fine too. This is turning into an insurance job now!
