125-200cc Newbie with 13 WR125 couple questions?

Hi all I just picked up a 13 WR125 and after setting it up last week and riding for the first time last weekend I am enjoying it and can't wait to try it as a 144 and then 165. I was setting up a few more things today getting ready to ride tomorrow and got a few questions.

1. Do you all run the rear axle torqued to 100ft lbs like the manual recommends??? I did last weekend but dropped it back to 70 today.

2. Does anyone know if the 13 WR125 has a stator/coil for running lights? I think it does according to the manual but just wanted to check.

3. With lights should I just get the stock OEM headlight/taillight or another aftermarket company? I need lights here and there for a couple enduro's.

4. Skid plates, what is everyone running? I ask because the one plastic tab broke off today on the factory one so I'm going to have to get something eventually but the stock one will work thanks to zip ties.

I think that's it for now.

Thanks in advance for any feedback.

I will take a stab at a few of your questions.the bike can run lights with stock stator.the stock headlight would be a good bet in my opinion.you can do better than the stock tail light for sure.dan

Make sure your axle is tight, not snapping bolts tight but tight, 70 should be heaps. but you need to be happy without a torq wrench as you may be sorting it out in the bush.
also, always check it after a few bumpy km's (oops miles) just put the spanner on and lean on it to check it hasn't come loose...

goes for any bolts you have worked on. first stop on any ride is the run around with the spanners stop. this way you can catch anything working loose or that you have forgotten to tighten up.

use Loctite! always....

enjoy the bike, they are a ton of fun

As far as torquing the rear axle I use a 12" socket wrench and just give it a good effort. Prob in the realm of 70 ft lbs I'd say.

100 ft lbs is the same as what you'd tighten a lug nut on a vehicle to for reference.

main bearings on a chev small block are 75lbs..and that's tight

take it all apart and grease everything

I agree with taking it apart and greasing every-thing. I took my wr150 apart and there was hardly any grease on any-thing from the factory. There are several threads on this forum with good advice on new bike prep. Congrats and enjoy that bike!

I torque the rear axle on my TE310 at 100 lb/ft because that's what the workshop manual specs (actually it calls for 104.8). I don't Loctite the axle bolt, 'cause its crazy tight to begin with. I put anti-seize on the axle threads.

I'm using the P3 (Pirie Performance Products) bash plate has taken a few good hits and survived. There are a couple of alloy ones kicking around the marketplace.

The Oz and Euro spec bikes run a lighting coil. I haven't ridden at night with the stock headlight so can not comment on how well it works it is a 35/35w globe fitted.

Thanks for all the tips guys and I have already tore it apart front to back and greased, anti-seized and loctited things that need it. I do that to all my new bikes and they just last longer. I even opened the sealed front wheel bearings very carefully and blew out the vaseline type grease and put in belray waterproof grease. Tried to do the same on the rear wheel but they didn't want to open as easy so I didn't want to damage the seal, maybe another time.

Yeah I thought that torque for the rear axle nut was to much but it is in the manual but I won't be running mine an 100 ft lbs.

I'll be checking on lights as well they don't need to work just need to be on the bike for the one enduro so I'll work on that.

I'll be looking for skid plates as well.

see if you can find a tube frame type pipe guard rather than the alligator or plastic full shields/skid pan as the hold heaps of mud. 3 Kg's on a 125 will have an effect....

Hi,
I made up an alloy skid plate that also comes up the front, under pipe. the pipe actually goes thru alloy plate and it is bolted to frame. See pic. The benefits with this are that it protects the radiator hoses and bottom of the radiator tanks from rock attacks and prevents mud and water from loading onto front of engine. easier to clean as well.

I have also installed a mild steel washer under axle nut to protect the final threads on axle bolt in the event of a laydown on rocks

The light on my sons is really dodgy as can be seen from the photo, I am unsure how to fix the bent light beam. No jokes aside the OEM light works fine.


.

the most vulnerable bit of pipe is the first 12 -15". Mistime a log xsing or rock ledge and that bit is flat or cracked and the bike runs like pooh.

a bloke I know is on his 3rd pipe (~$400) cos he wont shell out for a $100 pipe guard..."they look ugly" he says...should see how the last pipe looked when he smacked it into a rock ledge, it nearly dragged the pipe header out of the port and it ran like a strangled 80cc monkey bike.

if your riding easy, you can get away with a few dings but if your going to have a crack with the boys, being able to charge at rock ledges and big logs and not worry about your pipe makes for a lot more fun.

Those lights are leftovers from the Star Wars movie set, husky got them cheap...

Cool ideas one the skid plates....I'll have to do some looking around.

Just ordered up an OEM headlight and Acerbis taillight from Hall's today and they were great to deal with. Also got a FMF turbine core 2 silencer since I need it for the couple enduro's I do a year.