250-500cc Newer year radiators on older WR250

Guys, I wanted to replace the rads on my 99' WR250. I see there a lot of radiators available for 2000 up but few for 1999. What changed with the radiators after 2000 and what issues will I have mounting them up? Is the frame mounting different or the radiator size? Hose location? Shroud bolt locations? Thanks in advance for any input!

No probs Kev with bolting a 2k to a 99 frame...best aftermarket radiator l've picked up was actually from an aussie seller direct for my 95 Wr360 http://www.worleyautoparts.com.au/CustomerProduct/Index/1?Page=4
I believe these are the same units and l have a set of these on my 2k Wr250 http://www.ebay.com/itm/ALUMINUM-RA...9-2008-2007-/261015461819?fits=Make:Husqvarna

I picked up a pair of those GPI radiators for my '99 WR125 and they would not bolt up. The frame & shroud bolt location is different.

Swapped to 00-04 bodywork & ended up using the '99 radiators w/ only 1 bolt holding the radiator shrouds. Not the best solution, and the bodywork is a little off, but it works with some blue loctite.

I have the 2k+ radiators on my '99. The newer radiators are about an 1-1/2" taller and the mounting holes don't line up. I ended up welding studs to the frame to mount the radiator to.

Wow...l bolted these on a 95 WR360 and they bolted up to the frame no issues but the bodywork was a bit off but managed to bolt on well considering plastic changes from 95 to 2k+?
125's use a smaller radiator.

Thanks all for the replies. Comanche87 - so the 2K and up rads are a bit taller, meaning more radiator capacity as well I would imagine? That's a good thing. I also figured if the bolt holes do not line up I can use a strip of sheet aluminum either welded or bolted to the inside of the radiator, that extends forward a bit like the included mount holes and just drill new mount holes in the welded piece to match up the frame holes. On the outside edge I'm thinking this is just a matter of sheet metal bolted onto the given mounting holes with a new positioned slide nut to accept the shroud mounting if needed.

Another possibility of using the newer rads is getting radiator braces / guards. Obviously no one seems to have any for a 99' so newer year rads and guards, even with a little customizing just might fit.

Did you guys find that the aftermarket rads, which are usually a little thicker provided any noticeable amount of additional cooling capacity?

Yes it is quite a bit more cooling area. Something that I was unable to check on mine was if the radiators fit with the older tank, I already had the new tank on mine. Also, I forgot in my first post, the upper radiator hoses have to be replaced as the older ones are too short. If you need any pictures of what I have I can grab a couple for you tomorrow.

I noticed a lot of silicone hose kits for the 2000 and up bikes. I'll probably order those too when I get the radiators . Thanks for the update !

Comanche - you have me wondering now if the newer rads will fit with the older tank! I ordered the rads and a new silicone hose kit. Hopefully the fit. Worse case I hope to make them fit even if I have to fabricate a new mounting plate on them that will re-position the rads in relation to the mounting holes and tank.

Hey Kev, do you have a pic of your 99? The US 99 might be different to the Aust models.

Ohmygewd - Pic attached. The U.S. 1999's had the bodywork from the 90's models, but with the new style motor and USD forks. I believe the rest of the world got the new bodywork in 99, that then came to the U.S. in 2000. Let me know what you think I'm going to run into fitting the 2000 and up rads!

Cheers Kevin, those bikes were 98's to early 99's here but l'm surprised the GPI rads don't bolt straight up to the frame cos they bolted straight up to my 95 Wr360 frame..strange but then again l'm not a 98/99 250 guy!!
As for running taller/newer rads, it can't hurt and the availability of rad guards will be plentiful...as with my 95 360, getting OE parts are becoming hard to find so you have to resort to making mounts to fit unfortunately...hose shouldn't be an issue and the samco bikes are great but if your OE pipes are in good nick, keep using them as l've never split a rad hose except only at the clamp fittings which was a sign that these 20yo hose's had seen better days!!

ohmygewd - not sure what fitment will be like. I'm just anticipating if they are larger and mounting holes are different I'll have to make something. Fortunately I have an expert mig/tig welder a few blocks from me that can do amazing things with metal. And btw the rads I ordered are GPI.

I didn't mention that the whole reason I'm ordering these is I need a little more cooling capacity. After about 30-40 minutes of riding in tight slower technical stuff the bike is getting hot to where it sounds a little weird, as soon as I get moving again on a wide trail its fine as the excess heat dissipates. Before adding the new rads, this weekend I'll get to try a few things. I just went up on the main jet from a 172 to a 175 (PWK 38 carb, PJ is 40) so that might help a bit. Also I'm going to measure the rad and external cylinder temp with a small portable infrared thermometer when / if it starts to act like that. I also bought Engine Ice coolant, but I want to see if the main jet makes any difference first. Then I'll go to the Engine Ice, and will do some temp measurements again with the infrared as I want to see if this fancy coolant really does make a difference as they claim or is it just snake oil.

the engine ice helps a lil, but im finding the zipty coolant to be a much better product, as its a waterless coolant that builds no pressure.

Yeah if the bike is starting to running rough with little cooling then the gas is starting vaporize causing detonation and can cause piston scuffing as the piston starts to swell up and worst case can lead to a hot seized motor....you'd hope the radiator cap works before this occurs!!
Majority of cooling agents work great but if your spending majority of your rides on tight ST's, you may want to play not with just main jets but also needle and slides..majority of people jet the bike's up that run perfect on open trails or tracks where you can at least hit 3rd or constantly moving but when you start riding tight 1, 2nd gear tracks that's often stop start, the jetting becomes too lean as you rarely go pass 1/4 band and can never clear out the motor.
Also, may want to play with the pv and try and set it so band comes in a little earlier.

Sorry for the sidetrack but tuning the bike for slow stuff will aid in cooling as well....unfortunately, when you ride open stuff the bike will run out of puff as your setup is for tight technical riding.

can i just ask is it similar to the 125 engine just move the bolt in the slot for the 250/300 motor? getting new pipe so may change it for shits & giggles

Dunno mate never peered into a husky 125 motor...possibly

i hear about this from some people
i ride a 360 in VERY tight VERY technical terrain and wait for others as they recover from a boilover
so i sit and idle while they fight with theirs, idle as in sitting
ride hard, idle as long as i want, what makes my bikes different all 3 360's would do this
my older 430's and 500's too
check your timing, look into the radiator for buildup, check for air leaks
i am on a 360 that uses the same radiator as a 250 with ZERO issues