No clutch disengament ???

Okay, tried to race the 510 again today, probable for the last time, went to pull the clutch in for the first tight turn and nothing. Pulled like there wasn't any fluid in it.

Seemed fine going up to the starting area, and a couple of times I felt like I was able to pump it up to where it was working, but then it would just go away the next time. It's not slipping or anything, just won't disengage with the lever.

After about 5 crashes in a mile I gave up. Just can ride a 510 in the tight stuff without a clutch.

Slave cylinder o-ring or busted housing? I don't see any fluid on the outside, but there's very little in the master.

There's an X-ring (quad ring) from Uptite you might look into. It solves SOME clutch problems.

1 714 540 2920

http://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/archive/index.php/t-675964.html

Sounds about right from looking at the pistons and looks like a very smart fix to me.

I'd guess I bleed most of the fluid past the piston while I was sitting with the clutch in waiting for my row to start. Explains why it didn't start so good either.

I'm getting ready to wash the bike and tear into the problem.

Its a common problem on the Huskys. Worth doing a search back over the years on TT for more technical info and ideas.

While i totally agree the piston augers the cylinder, i also think when the bikes overheat, oil expands, and there is added pressure on the o ring--if the fluid levels are not spot on in the resevoir. (meaning too much oil in res.)


Ive also suffered from transporting the bike in the truck on an angle, only to find air entered the system. Last time that happened it took 100 miles of racing (baja 1000), then wahoo, my clutch started working again. Ive found oil levels in the resevoir have to be spot on. Just some more info.

There is a guy in Poland who makes a pull cable adator for the Huskys. I havent used one.

That seems like a step backwards.

I think cool moto has a better idea.

I've got the same problem at the moment with my 04 TE510, and its doing my head in.

Basically so far I've bled the system the correct way with the syringe pushing the oil up from the slave. I've replaced the Slave Cylinder as the old one did show signs of wear from kicking in the cylinder. But today was the first day I've used the bike with the new slave fitted and once again same problem.

Pretty much feels alright for 15mins or so, then start to notice a change in the feel and eventually the clutch lever seems to feel lighter and lighter but also doesn't disengage the clutch til eventually its not even disengaging the clutch at all.

The only two things I can think of now is maybe the seals and piston in the master cylinder are worn and oil is bleeding back past the seals ( also noticed a slight bit of moisture around the rubber dust seal for the adjustment knob, wasn't sure if it was oil as I'd ridden through water ) Other thing is how critical does the oil level have to be? I've just been pushing the oil in til its about 3 - 4mm from the top, then drop the rubber diaphram in, this usually pushed out a little oil, is this normal?

I've had issues also. First was when I had just under 500mi and lost clutch pressure, and was unable to build pressure. Bled a full bottle of blood thru the bike that night, gave up and took it to the dealer and then I lost pressure again a few days later and then there was a warranty from Husky.

I have allways had wetness at my adjuster knob. I just seem to loose pressure the day after I just"check" my clutch master. I usually wont need to add fluid however I will still loose pressure later on in the ride. I seem get the clutch feel back within a few miles. The clutch feel will build up with me just riding the bike then I'll loose feel the more I use the clutch...but it finally comes back.
There are a ton of miles on her and I'm sure now that the plunger is shot,I just dont like a lot of downtime out of the saddle.

7602 Racing seems to have the answer. If you got the piston from him and a master cylinder rebuild kit from your dealer, you should have a new clutch in an hour.

to add to it zip ty racing has surface hardened billet slaves, to intall the 7602 piston into.

I've been testing a "Pre-Production" version of the 7602 Racing piston and it's been working great. This really seems to fix the problem.

Plus side is that it also seems to have a very nice feel to it. Clutch pull may be lighter, but for sure it's smoother. Really nice plus to the fix.

And since it already comes with a quad ring, it's a "no brain er bargain".

CHECK HERE!

i have just replaced the oring in the slave cylinder and got a new plunger and spring in the mastercylinder and the clutch felt strong took it out for a ride and with in 1/2 an hour had no clutch and was in the same boat as i was before i replaced everything , ibled it the right way from the bottom to the top, i used texamatic 1888 atf SAE10W could the oil be my problem like has it ruined the new O ring or is it the o ring on the slave cause again there is no fluid in the resevoir any help would be appreciated cause this is starting to get to me have had this bike for 2 yrs and nearly got 7500km and have had never had any trouble with the clutch up until now and there didnt seem to be any scoring on the mastercylinder sleeve or the slave cylinder sleeve. cheers

Im having the same problem aswell, to date I've replaced the Slave cyliner and piston aswell as the Master Cyliner piston etc. First ride today, it seemed to go ok though there were times when it felt like it was going away again and then came back. Nowhere near as quick as usual, but I think in a fairly hilly area it would have completely gone.

My next step is to wait for the 7602 piston to come and try that, if that doesn't solve the problem Im gonna try 5 weight fork oil instead of the Magura blood.

well ive just found the problem have a look in your slave cylinder housing markymark and see if you can see any scoring in the barrel its only minor on mine but if you have all the slave cylinder housing un done press the slave cylinder in with your thumb blocking the top where the hose and bleed bolt goes in and it will stay in like it supposed to do now just touch the slave cylinder lightly and even with your thumb still on the hole at the top it will leak so after all that colo moto was exactly on the money so next question do you have these replacement slave cylinders through anyone in australia and even with the scoring in the slave cylinder housing will they work or do you have to look for a slave cylinder housing as well ? cheers ian

Sorry mate, but I've replaced the Slave cylinder and Slave piston already, aswell as rebuilt the Master Cylinder. Even after all this Im still getting a the 7602 Slave piston aswell. My bike never had this problem before an annoying fkn mate decided he wanted to open my resovoir to see how mine was since he was having issues with his, ever since then it hasn't been the same.

One thing I did notice was the fluid that was in the resovoir before hand def wasn't Magura Blood. Which is really getting me wondering how much heat the stuff can take. I've got aftermarket cams in my bike so she runs a tad hotter than a standard bike.